Left the gas on

That is a little odd about the plugs.
Do they have screw on terminals, if so, they may be loose.
What kind plugs and caps are you using?
If your using a 5k resisitor cap and a 5k resistor plug. That's too much resistance.
Usually one or the other, or neither, but not both

Hey all,

She's alive !!!!

I went back out to the shed after the last message to start an intensive plug cleaning program. I hooked the battery up to a trickle charger at the same time, just in case. I'm running a Trispark so I don't think that should make too much difference (it was just down to about 12.3 volts), but why not.

After I finished a very thorough job of the first plug I hooked it up and gave her a kick and I got a beautiful bright sparks where there had been nothing before. I cleaned a couple more while letting her charge and checked them hooked up to the leads, and same thing. Nice sparks on both sides.

Took off the trickle charger connections, turned the gas on, turned the choke on, gave her two kicks, and she fired but didn't run. Turned the choke off, gave her a good bit of throttle and kicked again and she started !! This time I kept the throttle a bit open to keep her running while doing a couple of adjustments to the throttle stop and pilot screw. She was running on both cylinders right away, but at first she seemed to be running better on the primary side. But after a running for a couple of minutes both sides seemed to be the same, and just like they were before this whole fiasco.

Next I shut her down and checked the primary level bolt to make sure it wasn't filling up with more oil (by this point I had 200 ml of oil added to it), and no issue there, which is awesome. Then I bolted on the last couple of parts I had taken off while doing the work, opened up the shed, started her again and went for a couple of brief test rides. I made a couple more throttle stop and pilot screw adjustments on the road, and she seems to running great ! Starting first kick again when warm. It's a very warm day here for these parts, so I probably didn't need any choke. I'll have to wait to see how she is when cold, but at this point I'm just super relieved that everything seems ok.

Thanks again for all the help everybody, I really appreciate it !!!!

J

Can't order elbow grease on Amazon. Glad you got it running, now get out and enjoy your day off!

Keep an eye on your oil level both in the tank and in the primary.

I used to kill a battery every 3 yrs or so ..... went to AGM with it on a battery tender at all times if not riding , that must be 6-7 yrs ago now , just great service life , in Spring the the tender goes on tractor for a week , then back to Commando like I say all the time even through winter months , nice clean plugs are a given once you have your carb and timing set up perfect .... NGK or Champion here got to be careful not to end up with knock off NGK’s though .... BritCycle in NS sells Champion ....enjoy your ride day today !

Good on you.
There’s an old saying goes something like this
‘Most carburation problems are electrical.’

So rule of thumb when troubleshooting,
Start with electrical and work your way down to the carb/carbs.

Congrats, we’ll done.

Good to hear, with any EI you must have a good fully charged battery if its under 12.5 volts the battery is under charged, that little drop in volts make a big differents, 12.3 volts the battery is flat and needs charging, anyway get out and take it for a good ride and enjoy it.

Ashley

o0norton0o said:

1)You go to the gas station and fill up a 10 gallon gas can. You fill your roadster tank right to the brim, then you allow your sticking floats to let the entire tank of fuel to run down the intake and fill up the cylinder washing it clean and filling the crankcase with fuel.

2)Then you kick the bike over a few times trying to start the bike, blowing the crankshaft seal right out of it's seat. You scratch your head and check the fuel tank to find it's empty of fuel. You deduce that the bike didn't start because it was out of fuel, so you fill the tank right to the brim again, and start the cycle over again, helping the fuel towards it's final destination,... the gearbox.

3)It's going to take a lot of fuel to fill both the crankcase and the primary case up enough to have fuel migrate down the clutch rod cavity and begin to fill the gearbox, but it IS possible if you were too cheap to buy a dynodave clutchrod seal, AND you refill the fuel tank 3 more times, which let it drain into to crankcase...

... sounds possible? right??

Click to expand...

I doubt it???