Leave the oil tank empty?

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I know its early but schedule has me getting ready for winter.
To avoid filling the crankcase with oil and possibly leaking into the primary, are there any ill effects of changing the oil and leaving the oil tank empty for an extended period?
Its going to wet sump anyway.
Just seems to make sense and not having to drain the sump in the spring. Thoughts?
 
I drain the oil before winter into a clean oil canister and refill it in spring - no problem.
 
MikeM,
Depends on your conditions for storage. I would leave it wet sump and drain it just before the first outing. I would rather have my main bearings covered with oil that will protect the internals from getting any rust if you leave a bike out lets say in a cold shed and spring comes along the bike sweats when it starts to warm up from cold to warmer climate. If it is stored in a warm area all winter then you can leave it empty. I would then recommend that you take the tappet covers off and pore oil into the push rod tunnels to get that oil on the cam before you fire it up and don't forget to put the oil back in the tank. Watch for the oil return right after you fire it up an hold it a 2500 RPM for a bit.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
 
MikeM said:
I know its early but schedule has me getting ready for winter.
To avoid filling the crankcase with oil and possibly leaking into the primary, are there any ill effects of changing the oil and leaving the oil tank empty for an extended period?

I've done that for several years, using a suction gun to remove the oil from the tank.
 
CanukNortonNut said:
MikeM,
Depends on your conditions for storage. I would leave it wet sump and drain it just before the first outing. I would rather have my main bearings covered with oil that will protect the internals from getting any rust if you leave a bike out lets say in a cold shed and spring comes along the bike sweats when it starts to warm up from cold to warmer climate. If it is stored in a warm area all winter then you can leave it empty. I would then recommend that you take the tappet covers off and pore oil into the push rod tunnels to get that oil on the cam before you fire it up and don't forget to put the oil back in the tank. Watch for the oil return right after you fire it up an hold it a 2500 RPM for a bit.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN

While this all makes sense, if the everything works properly the oil should stay in the tank and not fill the crankcase anyway.
Makes sense to put some oil on top of the cams in the spring. I have not done this in the past but have only had the bike running about 2 years now. Food for thought there.
Bike stays in an unheated garage with temp swings. Im in Chicago. -25 winter to 100F in the summer.
I drained the damn thing about 3 times over last winter. I think I will leave the tank empty this time.
 
MikeM said:
While this all makes sense, if the everything works properly the oil should stay in the tank and not fill the crankcase anyway.

Seriously Mike. "if everything works properly" ....your expectations of a Brit bike are too high :)
 
illf8ed said:
MikeM said:
While this all makes sense, if the everything works properly the oil should stay in the tank and not fill the crankcase anyway.

Seriously Mike. "if everything works properly" ....your expectations of a Brit bike are too high :)

Well, that maybe so, but if your oil pump is good, there should be no wetsump whatsoever. Regarding,winter storage, the best option is to leave oil in the bike and start it up once every two or three weeks. That way, it is always ready to go. I do that with my 4 vintage bikes and with my classic car...
 
Id say change the oil before storage, run it up make sure it is hot and all new oil is circulated.
Leave oil in it. Put some oil down the spark plug holes with pistons at TDC to protect the
rings and bores. Dont kick it over or start it until ready for regular use.
Heated storage is worth it in the long run.
In spring go with the previous posters routine.

Two and half months left in the northeast to ride.
 
Jagbruno said:
Regarding winter storage, the best option is to leave oil in the bike and start it up once every two or three weeks. That way, it is always ready to go. I do that with my 4 vintage bikes and with my classic car...

My understanding is that, unless you run the engine up to operating temperature and maintain that temperature for a minimum length of time, you will only produce condensates which will then settle into the oil and begin to turn to damaging acid(s).

So, it is better (healthier for the engine) to take a bike out and ride it for 15-20 minutes once it is warmed up, THEN put it away.

Or, drain it completely and "fog" the cylinders through the spark plug hole.
 
L.A.B. said:
I've done that for several years, using a suction gun to remove the oil from the tank.


That is a very good idea. What type of suction gun do you use, and do you store the oil in the gun?
 
elefantrider said:
L.A.B. said:
I've done that for several years, using a suction gun to remove the oil from the tank.


That is a very good idea. What type of suction gun do you use, and do you store the oil in the gun?

It's just a cheap oil suction gun similar to the one below, I transfer the oil to a plastic container-although it can be a bit messy until you get the hang of it.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/prod ... uction-gun
Leave the oil tank empty?


There are better versions available with a tank, and I might end up getting one of those.
Leave the oil tank empty?
 
Jagbruno said:
illf8ed said:
MikeM said:
While this all makes sense, if the everything works properly the oil should stay in the tank and not fill the crankcase anyway.

Seriously Mike. "if everything works properly" ....your expectations of a Brit bike are too high :)

Well, that maybe so, but if your oil pump is good, there should be no wetsump whatsoever. Regarding,winter storage, the best option is to leave oil in the bike and start it up once every two or three weeks. That way, it is always ready to go. I do that with my 4 vintage bikes and with my classic car...

My feeling is its a bad idea to start and run the engine every couple of weeks unless you are going to ride it long enough to burn off the condensation. With our winters, I change oil and put the bikes and car away for months and never start them til spring and warm weather. Sometimes its 7 months of storage. It works for me.
 
CanukNortonNut said:
I would rather have my main bearings covered with oil that will protect the internals...
I agree. However, has anyone ever actually verified just how high the oil comes up in the crankcase of a thoroughly wet-sumped engine? I'd be curious just how much of the crank protrudes above the "waterline". I anticipate pulling the top end this winter, as I have PO-installed exhaust nut inserts fighting to come out. sometimes-just-doesn-pay-wash-your-bike-t23125.html so maybe I can answer my own question at that point.

Nathan
 
The highest quality vacuum pump I have found is the blue 3qt Liquidvac.
Available at Lowe's Warehouse for $29 in the Lawn Mower section. Very thick plastic tank. I use one for each of my Nortons if not riding for a couple weeks. Help the sump and tank drain threads to live a longer life.
 
L.A.B. said:
elefantrider said:
L.A.B. said:
I've done that for several years, using a suction gun to remove the oil from the tank.


That is a very good idea. What type of suction gun do you use, and do you store the oil in the gun?

It's just a cheap oil suction gun similar to the one below, I transfer the oil to a plastic container-although it can be a bit messy until you get the hang of it.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/prod ... uction-gun
Leave the oil tank empty?


There are better versions available with a tank, and I might end up getting one of those.
Leave the oil tank empty?

I have the big MityVac in the second picture and it works well for oil changes....though for some reason it hadn't occurred to me to use it to extract and store the oil from the tank if I won't be riding my Commando for awhile. FWIW it comes with two reducer tubes to fit down dipstick holes so it is really handy for doing auto oil changes too.
 
My old works-provided 650SS was a terrible wet-sumper. Leave it for 2 weeks and the oil tank was empty. Before I realised what the problem was, I refilled the oil tank before a trip (taking my wife to stay with her folks until we emigrated). We got to her folks place, about 120 miles from Wolverhampton, without a break. When she stepped off, one shoe and the foot up to her ankle were covered in oil which had overflowed from the tank filler cap. I wasn't the most popular guy on the block!
 
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