Lansdowne Fork Damper Kit Update

I wanted to make some recommendation and observation about the Lansdowne Fork Damper Kit. First off they are a dramatic improvement over stock dampeners. I don’t care what modification you do to the stock dampeners, front end control will not equal the Lansdowne Fork Damper Kit!

Stick with the stock fork springs your bike came with! I had Progressive fork spring and found the last third of fork travel harsh with them. Progressive springs are meant to prevent bottoming out with stock dampeners. Bottoming or topping out is not an issue with Lansdowne Fork Damper Kit allowing the full fork travel.
Straight line fork compliance is satisfyingly firm while still absorbing sharp edge bumps. When in turns and suspension is loaded there’s no wallowing at all and bumps are sucked up without upsetting the front end.

My bike is a 1974 Norton Commando with Koni rear shocks. Lansdowne Fork Damper Kit with 170cc of 10wt fork oil. Dampener settings are ¾ turns out on rebound and 1 ½ turns on compression. I set compression light as possible for full travel and least resistance. Rebound setting stops the front end from hammering me and where most control takes place!

Make sure to bounce the front end with all the nuts and bolts loose to eliminate stiction and tighten from the bottom up!

I'm fascinated enough with the Race Tech type cartridges and your
report to have the kit at home now.
I'm the one that figured out the way to get full 6+ inch silent stops
via valve spring spacer, Its the kit Greg offers.
I test on THE Gravel paths, Pastures, creeks and tight rough pavement.
I put a foot rest across the fork brace that follows the sliders.
The only time forks compress in any turn is if braking otherwise
any lean, powered or not will un load the forks.
So it always confuses me to read about fork compression character
in leans. With grip enough the front can lift in sharpest turns.
As it is I just can't imagine a better fork action so will be
interesting testing to switch between the cartridge and just
damper rod profiling.

hobot - a power steering fluid fan now.

No sure why any road bike requires 6 in travel,,,which by the way is not possible with a standard internal sprung norton fork, the compressed length is approx 5,2 inchs , .I would guess the New Commando's fork travel would be 3-4 in max....and telling them you need 6,,,well i can imagin the responce!!!...

hobot said:

I'm fascinated enough with the Race Tech type cartridges and your
report to have the kit at home now.
I'm the one that figured out the way to get full 6+ inch silent stops
via valve spring spacer, Its the kit Greg offers.
I test on THE Gravel paths, Pastures, creeks and tight rough pavement.
I put a foot rest across the fork brace that follows the sliders.
The only time forks compress in any turn is if braking otherwise
any lean, powered or not will un load the forks.
So it always confuses me to read about fork compression character
in leans. With grip enough the front can lift in sharpest turns.
As it is I just can't imagine a better fork action so will be
interesting testing to switch between the cartridge and just
damper rod profiling.

hobot - a power steering fluid fan now.

Click to expand...

Centrifugal force going into turns loads front the end but I still want some travel after full compression. Powering out after apex and rebound side kicks in keeping the wheel in contact.

Bob, sound's like you dont hang about :!:

bmwbob said:

Centrifugal force going into turns loads front the end but I still want some travel after full compression. Powering out after apex and rebound side kicks in keeping the wheel in contact.

Click to expand...

I agree ain't no road bike that needs but a few inches travel
racers included. If that's all you do then stock travel is fine
but for curbs or chuck holes rarely encountered.
For road use my special will suck down below stock, stiffer for 3" travel.

But I live miles off pavement and get to play with trials bikes in
scary ravines and whootie doos and logs and creeks, roots, holes
etc - and can assure you 6" travel is inviting delight. A heavy twin
sound in the woods delights me and others to hear it snort.

I respectfully but firmly disagree that fork compress for turns
unless braking while leaning, a TABOO to me unless creeping.
Put a foot rest on fork brace or hand or foot on slider
and get back with me on what you find. Tip bike some
and fork will expand even with you leaning forward
and nil power but to keep speed constant or no power.
You can observe
this on good racer video, so not speculating about it.
If powering into
turns front can lift out of traction, so I don't ever depend
on front traction much - on or off road unless at sedate
sane safe rates.

Greg did not believe me either about full 6+" travel for 4 months
till he found a bad machined part and now sells it as great kit.

Unless you have tired Greg's kit, how can you judge the
pecking order of the clever one leg cartridge ?
I can't because I've not tried the cartridge yet but will in time.
Will have to see if full travel can be had with the cartridge in.

hobot

I agree...! Off road use require's a good fork travel, for bouncing kerbs, tree roots etc...But on a commando? Thump star,super ten yes!!!

That 6" travel is more like 5.5" in the real world. The hydraulic bump stops won't let the the forks top or bottom out.
Over 6.1" is impossible even dry without machining top or bottom bushes down.

Hehe, what ever you hear form me that seems so out in orbit to
yo'all is even more crazy making to me as I've experienced it in spades
and seek even more more more!!! ***WAY MORE***

Landsdowne kit deserves its own subject line and discussion,
while "hobot's tractor valve spring kit" aka "Greg Fauth's Roadholer kit",
deserves its own subject line and discussion. for easy future
reference. I'm opened minded enough to try suggestions and fascinated
by the cartridge re-bound damper in one leg - so much so -
I've bought the parts a month ago and must try it for myself.
I still can't imagine at this point better fork action improve'rs.
[i've lost respect for the modern 'wonders', on or off road forks]

Alas factory style Roadholders can easy travel 6" with silent
indefinite soft non linear progressive top out and bottom
out hitting stuff that throws bike and pilot a few feet up
VIOLENTLY or land on its nose jumping a sharp slope with unseen
washout half foot deep at top landing spot > also tossing bike
and rider a few feet back in air in horrified shock yet nothing else
but the emotional glandular excretion limits damaged and lesion
imprinted to look before leaping - hehe on or off road.

I've bought cartridge kit to see if I'm missing out on something
and suggest you do similar with Greg's slick kit and compare.
There are a number of handling up setters innate to factory
Commando's, but with Bob Patton's rear link, Byrain Tyree's
front link and hobot's *compliant* top link and fork spring spacers,
road riding out of front traction is soo soothing no effort boring
that to get adrenalin zing that leaves me weak knee'd
and squealing in terror, I leave THE Gravel ruts and
leap off 3-4 foot high driveway convert into flowing spring branch
with head size stones and axle height root and ledges
jerking bike out from under then climb out 6 foot slope
on wet grass just over idle rpm at almost WOT throttle on
oblique angles and try not to get whipped down or stuck- again.

Before: [ 5 years of 1st ever Norton project ]
http://image02.webshots.com/2/1/25/23/9 ... Hxo_fs.jpg

In between: [followed water till rear skipped to level spot to park, did
not ride down apparent path,that just a drainage rut]
http://image22.webshots.com/22/4/51/6/2 ... IZD_fs.jpg
http://image30.webshots.com/30/4/72/29/ ... Awv_fs.jpg

After: [ 5 months of limits exploring]
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1383202 ... 1179EnkEUv

Last view was because too bored staying on trial bike trail-
before pitching over almost hi centering edge of ravine 3 stories
deep getting on power enough to blast up steeper far side
that stood bike almost vertical with headlight at waist
level standing on pegs, -hit a hidden stump by only LH
frame tube instead of both and got pogo'd sideways
but only going 15 mph thank goodness.

Prior to braving speed enough to blast both frame tubes/skid plate
though crest peaks to catch air and aim to next hazard.
http://image44.webshots.com/45/9/96/66/ ... EWi_fs.jpg

With reasoned respect I just don't think yo'all know what ya missing
out on, so I'm lifting Peel 2" in rear to match the fork lifting delights
for more More MOORE.

hobot

I miss my Bultaco Sherpa T, but Norton will do for now. I did a spirited ride on a very bumpy back road the other day and although I set up the Lansdowne forks on the firm side I was never tossed about and once front end was loaded going into a turn, soak up bumps without upsetting the front end. Powering out of the turn the front end stayed planted!

Alrighty bmwbob,
In my case if it works well on loose rough stuff then road work
is a cake walk.
I can't imagine better fork action with my simple mods but
that don't mean I ain't missing out on even better.
Prior reports made a lot of sense to me on the rebound
dampening gained with the cartridge.
It looks so simple a mod my plan is to do initial run in on new project
on hobot forks then slip in the wonder cartridge and report back.

I've a '71 Commando buddy Wes, that lives on longer worse paths
than me so will try to talk him into spare cartridge before
I get to try it.

hobot

bmwbob said:

I miss my Bultaco Sherpa T, but Norton will do for now. I did a spirited ride on a very bumpy back road the other day and although I set up the Lansdowne forks on the firm side I was never tossed about and once front end was loaded going into a turn, soak up bumps without upsetting the front end. Powering out of the turn the front end stayed planted!

Click to expand...

The internal of the Betors are even more primitive than the Roadholders. They just feel better because they are nice and soft and you're going slow. :mrgreen:

Sounds like the Lansdowne kit is being pushed to the limits by bmwbob!, I thought i had made a damper set to improve the stock damper's.
Suddenly the forum is alive with comparisions ..Race tec v Lansdowne. To be honest the whole conception was to " Put some comfort" into the forks. in keeping with the rest of the bike,
The original idea was to produce a "Knock free", compliant fork action, to give riders an enjoyable ride, IN NORMAL ROAD CONDITION'S. With sensible setting's thats what the Lansdowne kit will do, BUT...as they can be set firmer/softer,some guys are inclined to play with "Race /off roads ettings,
Please remember the Limitations of the rest of the machine!!!..skimpy tyres,and that Isolastic "BENDY" frame!!
Enjoy the inhanced ride...But remember ...The bike as limitations...Best Wish's John Lansdowne Eng."

bmwbob said:

I miss my Bultaco Sherpa T, but Norton will do for now. I did a spirited ride on a very bumpy back road the other day and although I set up the Lansdowne forks on the firm side I was never tossed about and once front end was loaded going into a turn, soak up bumps without upsetting the front end. Powering out of the turn the front end stayed planted!

Click to expand...

'I respectfully but firmly disagree that fork compress for turns
unless braking while leaning, a TABOO to me unless creeping.
Put a foot rest on fork brace or hand or foot on slider
and get back with me on what you find. Tip bike some
and fork will expand even with you leaning forward
and nil power but to keep speed constant or no power.
You can observe
this on good racer video, so not speculating about it.
If powering into
turns front can lift out of traction, so I don't ever depend
on front traction much - on or off road unless at sedate
sane safe rates.'

Mother Nature disagrees with you on this one. Draw a picture that shows the forces on a bike while leaned over in a turn and you can see it. To me, racing photos look to have the forks well compressed in a turn.

Dear sirs,

!. Get Norbsa's 'hobot' kit for cheap complete silent comforting forks.
Review his post in Hunka Hunka 6" tarvel
for details he just taught me more to check into.
They are more than adequate for me to spank best and very
angry frustrated elite bikes and riders over 90 mph in 20-40 mph
marked chicanes and twisties on broken to smooth pavement.
Also a wonder I enjoy in creek beds and very fast 80-100 mph loose
rough Graveling. Animals below axle height or knocked down
below axle height not worth dodging. Just power over
silently but for involuntary pilot and animal squeals.

2. Until one actually measures or feels what the forks do
when ever leaned even a little and not braking hard
you are being mislead by speculation and assumptions.
Was HUGE surprise to me, so understand others opinions.
Alas other m'cycles can't really go around corners fast
enough to relieve the forks to full extension so does
help them to have some suspension squash in turns.

Safe Journeys
hobot

Forks are depressed in a turn its called centrifugal force ,angle ,weight and speed

littlefield said:

'I respectfully but firmly disagree that fork compress for turns
unless braking while leaning, a TABOO to me unless creeping.
Put a foot rest on fork brace or hand or foot on slider
and get back with me on what you find. Tip bike some
and fork will expand even with you leaning forward
and nil power but to keep speed constant or no power.
You can observe
this on good racer video, so not speculating about it.
If powering into
turns front can lift out of traction, so I don't ever depend
on front traction much - on or off road unless at sedate
sane safe rates.'

Mother Nature disagrees with you on this one. Draw a picture that shows the forces on a bike while leaned over in a turn and you can see it. To me, racing photos look to have the forks well compressed in a turn.

Click to expand...

OK Ok, I'll back up a bit on the fork extension into leaned turns,
but only as regards other motorcycles than Ms Peel and maybe
Commandos in general.

Yesterday I put my foot on remaining R fork reflector bracket
on my SV650 going low power 55-60 mph and lane weaving
to nice legal normal leaned turns. Forks compressed as much
as extended following road lumps - just like yo'all state.
I can't handle the SV650 in fast leaned turns with w/o
my feet planted or bike gets crazy. So I don't yet
directly know what forks do on moderns taking turns fast.

But I've a few 1000 miles with feet on sliders in both
normal to hard tuning on tri rod linked Ms Peel 'who' does indeed
extend forks any time leaned with or w/o power applied.
i was rather surprised and tried many ways of turning
and leaning and power and braking to get to my firm
data on Peel. Don't know where else this applies OK.

I do know for sure that on any bike the harder going
into turns the more the forks unloads, till traction gone.
That implies forks extend not compressing. hmm.

I'm open to my errors but plan to test fork extend action
more on my SV650 and bone stock Combat, unless
someone beats me to it.

hobot