Lansdowne Damper Grub Screw (missing!)

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I have a recently new to me 750 Commando which a previous owner had fitted the Lansdowne Damper kit. For the first time I thought I would've a go at playing with some different settings but was disappointed to find one the Allen screws is not present! Is this just a case of a replacement screw or is it a more complicated fix?
 

L.A.B.

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Thanks very much, I'll source another and replace, as you have indicated it should be trapped in the internal thread so someone must have disassembled it at some point.
 

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That seems odd and you might want to confirm it is a John Bould (R.I.P) made insert.

This is an original made by John and can not see replacing the grub screw (If that is what it is) an easy job as the rod itself is most likely Loctited solidly into the brass adjuster body.
The hex key used is 5/64's and the rod is around 3/16's OD so can only assume the brass cap is threaded as per the grub screw which is screwed up until it hits the shoulder then the rod with the same thread is screwed home after to lock it in place.
It would still need Loctite as a guarantee.
Stripping the hex would be hard also but a closer look might be warranted.

jb1.jpg


jb2.jpg
 
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madass140

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I have a recently new to me 750 Commando which a previous owner had fitted the Lansdowne Damper kit. For the first time I thought I would've a go at playing with some different settings but was disappointed to find one the Allen screws is not present! Is this just a case of a replacement screw or is it a more complicated fix?
Here is a pic of my production adjuster. There is 2mm of unthreaded hole in the top of the brass adjuster. the grub screw is screwed
in from the underside and the long needle is threaded in and secured with Loctite. I can guarantee 100% that the dampers you have are not my production . Its just not possible for the grub screw to come out the top.. Are you sure the grub screw hex is not just stripped ?
 

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gortnipper

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The damper could not be fitted in place without the grub screw, and the screw cannot be removed from the top.

After having witnessed that original thread at the time...my bet the grub screw is stripped.

If that is the case, it may have been so because a different sized o-ring was used (or the DPO was dyslexic and confused lefty-loosey with righty-tighty). I had a leaky original JRB made unit, and had to go to a slightly different o-ring to fix the leak - IIRC, same spec, different mfgr. With some grease, it can still be slightly sticky after a while, so one must be mindful the Allen key is fully inserted.
 
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