Kickstart Shaft Seal Tutorial
- Thread starter swooshdave
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I wish the bush was loose. Darn thing is stuck.
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You sure you wouldn’t rather see me get the bike on the centerstand with just my foot?
To clarify what I said about starting the bike with my hand it was prior to rebuilding the engine. I would not be able to do it now. But of course that means I’ll do something stupid and try to...
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You sure you wouldn’t rather see me get the bike on the centerstand with just my foot?
To clarify what I said about starting the bike with my hand it was prior to rebuilding the engine. I would not be able to do it now. But of course that means I’ll do something stupid and try to...
Don't then try with your hand!! The center stand trick I'd like to see though.
My Atlas P11 motor turned Combat is 10:1 and I'd break my arm off at the elbow trying that. Maybe fully warmed up, but I'd have to turn back the clock 39 years, and drink at least 6 fingers of tequila before trying. Then I wouldn't feel the break so much.
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Yes.
Try a dead end hole bearing puller with heat.
Freeze the bush and heat the cover to ~200F.
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Heated it up again and using the brass drift got it out.
Heated the cover back up and put the bush in the freezer. Didn't take long to bang it back into place after putting the seal in.
Don't forget to face the lip inward!
Electrical tape around the kickstart shaft splines. Plus a little grease and the seal slid right over. Then removed the tape.
If you use a gasket you can notch the bottom so the oil doesn't get stuck behind the gasket. Not sure how important this is but I did it anyways.
A little grease everywhere and then ready for the cover.
Everything back ready to go. Now back to the clutch pull thread to see what's happening there.
Clutch Pull and Clutch Stack Height
I once cured a heavy clutch pull by changing the operating lever, night and day difference. I then made it hydraulic and it got even lighter, one finger operation now.
www.accessnorton.com
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So the good news is I think the seal worked on the kickstarter. The bad news is that it's now leaking from the shifter. I had ignored the shifter area thinking that how could oil get that high into the gearbox cover. And it didn't leak there before. Make you wonder how much pressure is built up in the gearbox. Is that what forces it out into the primary?
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The earlier ones aren't vented. Look at the oic above, no vent. Just a crooked clutch cable.
Dave - does your inspection cover have a small hole in it? If not, you can drill a 1/16" hole in it.
I drilled mine a little closer to the edge away from the screw holes.
Dave - does your inspection cover have a small hole in it? If not, you can drill a 1/16" hole in it.
I drilled mine a little closer to the edge away from the screw holes.
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The earlier ones aren't vented. Look at the oic above, no vent. Just a crooked clutch cable.
Dave - does your inspection cover have a small hole in it? If not, you can drill a 1/16" hole in it.
I drilled mine a little closer to the edge away from the screw holes.
It does. As @L.A.B. pointed out in another thread the issue of gearbox pressure has been tested by @dynodave and there doesn't seem to be any support for that theory.
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Hopefully, it's been straightened out since then??
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My article on the gearbox pressure hoax is here:
IMHO all inspection cover holes hole should be sealed or shut permantly
The one thing I would recommend is to be sure that are (2) good seal (oring) on the shifter shaft as well as sloppy generous with the marine grease in and out of both shafts.
Rather than leaking oil......
If water gets in and starts to rust between the indicator shaft and the shift actuator shaft they will have high drag and bind up and was the cause of a 2004? daytona trouble shoot, derust, clean lube session on my friends 73 850 commando. Bike did not want to shift .
AN still puts a hole in the inspection cover = IMO brain dead
IMHO all inspection cover holes hole should be sealed or shut permantly
The one thing I would recommend is to be sure that are (2) good seal (oring) on the shifter shaft as well as sloppy generous with the marine grease in and out of both shafts.
Rather than leaking oil......
If water gets in and starts to rust between the indicator shaft and the shift actuator shaft they will have high drag and bind up and was the cause of a 2004? daytona trouble shoot, derust, clean lube session on my friends 73 850 commando. Bike did not want to shift .
AN still puts a hole in the inspection cover = IMO brain dead
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When I inspected the shifter shaft o-ring I thought, it's dry and how could oil get up there. The reality is I should have replaced it and packed with grease. Which I would normally do. My bad.
AN tries whenever possible to produce the original spec parts so I would expect the hole to be there. Originality over functionality is the key to restoration parts. If someone doesn't like it functioning then they can seal it up but I would never blame AN for something like putting that hole there.
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I guess this is your opinion ?
From the ANIL site:
" Andover Norton has the original tooling and the original drawings and is continuously getting parts made to original or, where advisable, improved specification by our specialist suppliers- foundries, forges and machine shops most of which are based in the Midlands. "
They obviously ignore some advice that even any intelligent person can understand. Sure offer the original, but advise the public the improved late model cap is available and adviseable...and drop the brass vent
GEARBOX INSPECTION COVER
(WITHOUT BREATHER HOLE) -preferred
06.5517
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So now they should stock two inspection covers? One with the hole and one without? That sounds financially viable. Meanwhile didn't you just say the gearbox is anything but airtight?
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