John Tickle TLS set up help.

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It appears so.

The 8" TLS in both my Triumph and BSA is a great brake, and I know Dunstall and others have retrofitted this to the Norton front end. I've been thinking of taking this on as a side project myself. I'm pretty sure the ridge/flange on the Triumph plate contributes significantly to the rigidness, that and the extra webbing inside. The shoes also sit below this ridge, which made arcing them problematic

John Tickle TLS set up help.
 
If you have a TLS front brake, you also need a pudding basin helmet to get the complete classic look. Your skull is probably thick enough to withstand any crashes.
 
acotrel said:
If you have a TLS front brake, you also need a pudding basin helmet to get the complete classic look. Your skull is probably thick enough to withstand any crashes.
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How many of us have heard the same sentiment about riding motorcycles period...
 
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The Triumph/BSA TLS is much better than the Norton one. Comparing them side by side the Triumph/BSA one has shoes that are about 60% larger in terms of their braking area (they're much wider than the Norton ones) and the shoes "float" so they self centre. Years ago I converted a Norton TLS brake to take wider Triumph brake shoes from the Triumph conical hub. These wider shoes allowed the entire width of the Norton hub's steel insert to be used for braking. The Triumph shoes were steel so it was relatively straightforward to machine and weld on the pivots. I had new linings fitted by Vintage Brake and arced the linings to the drum. I also converted the brake plate to allow it to float on a top hat bush, and lengthened the operating arm. The brake plate was also fitted with a stiffening kit. The end result was a brake that worked well, but it still wasn't as good as a Triumph one. I guess what it boils down to is you can make the Norton brake work OK, but in my experience that's about all it will ever be.
 
the original John tickle shoes are a different curvature to any stock Norton shoe , if you have replaced the tickle shoes with Norton they will not have full contact with the drum
tickle cams and pivot pins are in slightly different location to Stock Norton brake plates

i have a complete tickle brake and a spare plate which i cannot find correct shoes for as no one reproduces replacement tickle shoes
if you have the original tickle shoes the only option is to re line
 
Frankie17 said:
the original John tickle shoes are a different curvature to any stock Norton shoe , if you have replaced the tickle shoes with Norton they will not have full contact with the drum
tickle cams and pivot pins are in slightly different location to Stock Norton brake plates

i have a complete tickle brake and a spare plate which i cannot find correct shoes for as no one reproduces replacement tickle shoes
if you have the original tickle shoes the only option is to re line
Click to expand...

not saying you are not correct, but , this was a long time ago!!!

when I had my Tickle LS relined by Dunphy, it was with Ferodo Brake Linings, they would be the first place to try.
 
I am an expert at crashing with drum brakes. I ended up using a 7R AJS brake with different linings on both shoes. I also extended the lever on the backing plate. The brake was excellent, but I had to be extremely careful when using it. I had an extremely nasty crash when I was a bit out of practice and an idiot did something stupid in front of me. I now use twin discs with asbestos pads. It is one finger operation, just like the drum brake - but it is SAFE. I can actually grab a handful knowing it will not lock of it's own volition. And if it does lock, I can let go and it will come off. Drum brakes should be banned for racing. Those and pudding basin helmets killed a lot of good guys in the old days.
 
I stopped racing regularly in 1973. At that time there were three main linings in use - ME36 which was green and worked extremely well when cold. MZ 41 and MZ42 were harder linings and MZ42 worked better at high temperature. In my 7R brake, I used ME36 and MZ41, so the brake worked well, both at the start and the end of races. However, these days those linings have been replaced by ones which don't have asbestos.
If you get a drum brake good enough to race with, it is usually dangerous. Disc are much cheaper and sensible. The Norton disc brake is not good enough for racing. If your opposition uses one of those or a drum brake, with twin discs you will beat them every time even with a mediocre motor.
 
Has anybody used this service I found on the internet?

READ TEXT !!!


https://villiersservices.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=146

Page 1

This service can cater for any shape or size brake-shoe. Whether it’s for a bike, car, van, trailer or even tractor. Many modern linings are too hard, so we have a range of materials to suit all applications, including woven non asbestos which does not need to get hot to work .All you need to do is remove the shoes from the back plate, drop them in a jiffy bag or box, write down what they fit, what you are going to use them for. I.e. trials, road, scramble etc.

For any motorcycle shoes we charge £21.95 a pair inclusive of vat and postage is free!


Page 2


Brake shoe service for oversize shoes. Please only purchase this if we have send a link. Or advised on phone

£25.00 Inc VAT
 
Ok.Had my tickle shoes relined.Then noticed the pivot hole was worn.This caused the shoe to have to much lateral play.I drilled out the pivot to insert a brass bush.Unfortunately, bad engineering on my part caused the hole to be slightly off centre.When I attempted to insert the bush it split the pivot point.I presumed the tickle would be a standard Norton part.Apparently not, as previous posts suggests its different.Now have to explore options for repair/replacement.
 

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As TT says the play could have helped the brake become more efficient by making it float as per Triumph shoes from 66 onwards.

Take a pic of the shoe on the plate, also measure the diameter of the pin. I may be able to salvage it for you and make both shoes float. That brake plate looks like the Triumph TLS version, have you tried Triumph shoes.

John Tickle TLS set up help.
 
That brake plate is nothing like mine, unfortunately.Ill probably make a new pivot and weld it in place.ill take a look at Triumph version too.
Surely Tickle didnt have bespoke shoes made?
 
The most important thing on any motorcycle is the front brake. Why would you use something which is inferior ?
 
coomo said:
Ok.Had my tickle shoes relined.Then noticed the pivot hole was worn.This caused the shoe to have to much lateral play.I drilled out the pivot to insert a brass bush.Unfortunately, bad engineering on my part caused the hole to be slightly off centre.When I attempted to insert the bush it split the pivot point.I presumed the tickle would be a standard Norton part.Apparently not, as previous posts suggests its different.Now have to explore options for repair/replacement.
Click to expand...
You should have made a "top hat" brush. Hope you didn't drill plate out with you Black and Decker! You could make an offset brush in a lathe, and strink it in for a tight fit.
 
Bernhard said:
You should have made a "top hat" brush. Hope you didn't drill plate out with you Black and Decker! You could make an offset brush in a lathe, and strink it in for a tight fit.
Click to expand...
Thats exactly what I was doing.The pivot was ovaled.Unfortunately when I set it up in drill press to regain diameter,I must have misaligned it.As I drove the brass bushing in it split the pivot hole.Ill weld in some solid bar.Then Il give it to my engineer guy, to redrill and machine.They are far more expert than I am.I didnt drill the plate.It was fine,It was only the shoe that showed any wear.
 
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