Is using diodes a good idea??

Fast Eddie · Jul 29, 2014

SteveA said:
Using relays in lighting circuits is good practice, since not only does it allow you to fit the appropriate rated cable to reduce voltage drop at the lights, it also reduces the electrical load on your switch and extends the life of it. (carry a spare relay to cover most eventualities)

(ask who shoved high wattage bulbs in a company pool car he borrowed to do a local night rally, not realising that Mr Ford did not fit headlight relays on budget cars!......and burnt out the dip switch )

Putting diodes (that can be broken by vibration) into a 'safety critical' circuit on a motorcycle is bad practice. (1N4000 range are not desiged for use in 'rugged' environments, even if they are 1960s tech and typically survive quite well)

Honestly, it is also bad practice fitting a switch that has off between main and dip settings, as you have realised.

Like a lot of us however, I have coped with 'poor lighting', and the odd rider/driver induced 'total lack of lighting'.....for short periods....but I don't recommend it :roll:

I like the 2 switch idea, simply because it reduces the likelyhood of you being even momentarily without lighting. Even if a switch fails there is a work around to get dip on to get home.

The off position is not between main and dip Steve, the switch is OFF-DIP-MAIN. Nevertheless, I've decided against using it. Which negates the need for diodes.

Relays is another topic of course. I was pleasantly surprised at the selection of relays on sale at Halfords this morning! But then quickly realised in don't know which is most suitable.

I think I'll be wiring sans relays this time, perhaps I will add them during the off season (same time as you'll be fitting your billet crank)!

Oh yes, I too burnt out the light switches in a mk3 Escort. Twice!

Nater_Potater · Jul 29, 2014

Try these on for size: NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0347577501 They're small, relatively cheap, use easily-obtainable spade connectors, and are made for continuous operation. Stick 'em down with double-sticky foam tape. The hi/lo wires from the handlebar switch were routed to the relays through stock bullets on one end, then spade connectors on the other. That way, the only thing the hi/lo switch has to handle is the current required to trip the relays. The headlamp harness proper doesn't connect anywhere except the battery, nothing special had to be done to the stock harness for that. Granted, two wires had to be snaked from the battery area then through the cable jacket from the backbone into the headlamp shell, but all that juice is now off of the main harness and ignition switch. More at uprated-charging-system-t19016-45.html

If you like, I could cobble together a schematic later this evening. Just let me know.

Nathan

Is using diodes a good idea??

Fast Eddie

Nater_Potater

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