Is it me or Avon tyres?

Status
Not open for further replies.
NAPA has a paste (which I have not tried) and a liquid called RuGlyde (sp?). I always have good luck with the liquid when ever I need to get rubber parts together. It also evaporates after a while, under normal circumstances there is plenty of work time. My go-to with tube tires is baby power, sprinkler some on the tube and tire bead. If I get a real tough one, usually when its cold out, I wipe some RuGlyde on the the tire bead and rim. Even though it evaporates I still try and keep it to a minimum. Too bad about the Stubby going out of business, their tire levers are great for aluminum rims.
Pete
 
I made this tool :

Is it me or Avon tyres?


2 positions, for 18" and 19".
The part that pushes the tire over the rim is ertalon ( a kind of hard plastic)
Works a treat..:

Is it me or Avon tyres?


The tab with the red cross indicates the 'heavy' point of the wheel.
 
Last edited:
ludwig said:
I made this tool :

Is it me or Avon tyres?


2 positions, for 18" and 19".
The part that pushes the tire over the rim is ertalon ( a kind of hard plastic)
Works a treat..:

Is it me or Avon tyres?


The tab with the red cross indicates the 'heavy' point of the wheel.
Click to expand...
NOW I'm envious. Brilliant idea.
 
concours said:
NOW I'm envious. Brilliant idea.
Click to expand...
That really is a good tool , Ludwig posted a photo of this a while ago
Every time I change a tyre I kick myself for not having made one !
One day I'll get back into my workshop and sort it out
 
I only have one motorcycle, and I'm a weak old man. I leave tyre changing to the YamaZuki dealer down the road from me.
 
I use Ru-Glyde as I'm always changing small tires on my machines. My 16 1/2 foot mower has 10 little 13X5X 6 and two bigger tires for instance.

Anyway, since this is a tire topic, does anyone do away with the rear wheel rim clamp?
 
I believe many do, citing the lack of power to actually cause tyre creep under acceleration. I keep it for the opposite scenario, I have in the past stalled or faffed the gearchange causing the rear wheel to lock up and chirp, it's in these instances I think it may be useful....
(but each to their own, of course :-) )
 
EstuaryBoy said:
I believe many do, citing the lack of power to actually cause tyre creep under acceleration. I keep it for the opposite scenario, I have in the past stalled or faffed the gearchange causing the rear wheel to lock up and chirp, it's in these instances I think it may be useful....
(but each to their own, of course :) )
Click to expand...
No need to use the rear wheel rim clamp security bolt 06-8090 . Not enough horsepower generated to cause R. wheel tire creep under hard acceleration. The thinking is the valve stem might get sheared off and then rapid deflation to flat. Trail bikes/off road need them due to low tire pressures and bursts of horsepower.
I simply cut a piece of rubber and glue it inside , over the former rim lock hole. Feel the hole for any possible roughness or machining burrs and dress the inside with a tiny file on the inside . Then fit a new rim band all the way around , then a quality tube like Michelin , Metzeler or Continental. Never refit any patched tube .
 
JimNH said:
I use Ru-Glyde as I'm always changing small tires on my machines. My 16 1/2 foot mower has 10 little 13X5X 6 and two bigger tires for instance.

Anyway, since this is a tire topic, does anyone do away with the rear wheel rim clamp?
Click to expand...
Yes.
 
My understanding is that modern tyre compounds are so much stickier they render use of rim clamps redundant on road bikes.

Plus, alloy rims (in my experience at least) come with some mild serrations to grip the tyre. So that obviously helps too, for those that have ‘em at least.
 
EstuaryBoy said:
I reckon was stored at the bottom of the pile!
Click to expand...
You flashed me back! When I was a kid I had a job at the local Firestone store after school. The popular tire then was the Deluxe Champion - 4 for 100! ; the old bias tires wore out in about 10,000 miles. Anyway, they had a cheaper model called the New Champion. It was the one the car dealers had us install so they could sell a car with 4 new tires. When you stacked them after about 5 tires the pile never got any higher and when you had to mount one that had been on the bottom it was a bitch to get beads seated.
 
For tyre levers I use the motion pro aluminium one with a 22mm ring spanner from Dirt Bike Express as it fits the main wheel nuts too. I also have a Motion Pro (fromn Adventure Spec) aluminium bead breaker 2 part tool which has lever ends. This works well enough to break the bead on the 150/70 rear on my T700 - its not easy but weedy old me can do it. For tyre lube I bought some gel from google and that worked fine to mount the new rear on the T700 with a foot pump inflator.
 
andyd said:
Just bought a batch of Roadrider II tyres and they are a pain to install and then to get to run true. Initially thought it was the excel valanced alloy rims but have nearly the same issues with the chrome rims. 100/90 and 90/100 x 19's on 1.85 rims using tyre lube.
I normally use a No-Mar on most of my wheels, but these tyres need spoons.
Anyone else have issues or have any tips?
Andy
Click to expand...
Just fitted a Roadrider ll to alloy rim, 110-18 manufactured 13 months ago. No issues with fitment, went on easily, just used 2 tire levers, rim protectors,ru-glyde and an old square of carpet on the ground. It helps that it 80 degrees F here today.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top