Introducing myself and my 850 advice request.

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cliffa said:
I always thought that was because the vinyl had lifted from the foam because it wasn't glued ?
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Nope-

Introducing myself and my 850 advice request.
 
FYI Matt from Colorado Norton was kind enough to recommend his preferred Wheel setup:

"I would recommend a 19/18 combo. A wm3 -19 and wm 4 or 4.5-18 (depending on brand rim)

For tires I use Bridgestone BT 46 100/90-19 and 120/90-18. If you go to a different brand you may only be able to do a 110 in the rear. The Bridgestone has a shaved sidewall to remove the outer edge. So you still get the footprint of a wider tire but it fits better inside the Commando swing arm. Still tight though with that tire. In other words, not a lot of adjustment side to side"

Nice of him to do, hope this helps others, I will be treating my self to some of these rims soon!
 
Avon 110s fit in the rear. Done it on almost every Commando I've built/restored/refurbished.
 
NickZ said:
Where is the oil tank?
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Yes, this was a progress photo, but sadly, a lost a USB thumb drive with all my data a month or so later, and hadn't done a backup of my progress photos, including the oil tank.

The client wanted the "space" look there, so I mounted the OEM oil tank transversely in the frame. It was actually very easy to do, but resulted in an oily mess when it was time for an oil change. I could have plumbed in a drain line, I suppose...

Here is a shot of the installation in detail, you have to use your imagination to see the overall picture in your mind. It definitely gave the "clear thru" look that many people like. (the client had eliminated the e-start and did not want it replaced; he also provided the seat and fuel tank before the build, and he selected the frame color, ala Paul Smart)

IMG_0554.JPG
 
I installed a new 13mm Master cylinder from Andover over the weekend. Wow what a nice upgrade! The brake feel is so much better than before! Nice progressive feel gives a lot more confidence.

Some more goodies are due in this week including a pair of Lansdowne inserts and Turcite bushings, looking forward to the upgrade. I will post photos soon.
 
Nice. You will like these upgrades. I know I did. Dont have those nice seals tho.

I had to lightly bring down the OD of the Turcite upper bush to get stiction free movement, but I had new stanchions as well so that may be part of it. But the action is super nice now.
 
I'm really looking forward to getting these on and set up....but I'm not sure what to expect! Should I use 10wt fork oil?
 
vespam5 said:
I'm really looking forward to getting these on and set up....but I'm not sure what to expect! Should I use 10wt fork oil?
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Yes. But be aware, there is a variety of viscosities between different manufacturers 10wt, as there is no standard like with motor oils.

You may want to look at this chart to find a 10 wt that is either middle range or that you think may fit your riding style.

I use Bel Ray and it works well for me.

Fork oil weights

mahonkin.com
 
Wow, that’s an interesting chart, so the summary would appear to be: its a total stab in the dark when deciding on an oil!

Or a more pragmatic summary might be: when you’ve found an oil that suits you, stick with that brand and type.

One thing I will say about fork oil is that it has a harder life than most of us assume, it breaks down and loses its viscosity over time. Sometimes a surprisingly short time. In my experience the Lansdowne dampers suffer this even more, I had the oil (Silkoline) break down in a very short time, to the extent my damping had effectively gone.

So I guess the second pragmatic summary is: change your fork oil regularly! Cos it’s pretty dumb to rebuild your forks and / or buy posh upgraded fork bits and then allow them to not function cos the oil has turned to water !
 
Fast Eddie said:
Wow, that’s an interesting chart, so the summary would appear to be: its a total stab in the dark when deciding on an oil!

Or a more pragmatic summary might be: when you’ve found an oil that suits you, stick with that brand and type.

One thing I will say about fork oil is that it has a harder life than most of us assume, it breaks down and loses its viscosity over time. Sometimes a surprisingly short time. In my experience the Lansdowne dampers suffer this even more, I had the oil (Silkoline) break down in a very short time, to the extent my damping had effectively gone.

So I guess the second pragmatic summary is: change your fork oil regularly! Cos it’s pretty dumb to rebuild your forks and / or buy posh upgraded fork bits and then allow them to not function cos the oil has turned to water !
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I don't think it is a total stab in the dark.

Take the Bel Ray 10w and Bel Ray HVI 10w.

Same reported cST at 40C, but markedly different at 100C. So the HVI performs much better as temp increases. Look at the higher reported VI and VT. That is how I selected on Bel Ray 10w HVI as a starting point from what was locally available. It seemed to have good performance characteristics at a slightly "heavy 10w".

Now, of course this says nothing about how may cycles the oil will last at. Not like the tests comnoz did for motor oil.
 
Well yes, you rightly state that there are 3 oils whereby the tested viscosity matches the nominal.

But that’s kinda what I meant, given the vast number tested, it’s basically a stab in the dark for someone buying off of eBay / at the store counter !

Personally, I have become something of a Bel Ray fan after using their gear oil (which makes a noticeable difference in shifting smoothness, finding neutral at a standstill, etc) and their v twin synthetic engine oil (which scored very highly on Comnoz’ testing).

Also, I have had very bad experience with Silkolene fork, and engine oil, losing its viscosity frighteningly quickly. But it looks quite good on that list.

So, for me personally, I’ll be trying the Bel Ray fork oil, so thanks for posting that list !
 
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Fast Eddie said:
Well yes, you rightly state that there are 3 oils whereby the tested viscosity matches the nominal.

But that’s kinda what I meant, given the vast number tested, it’s basically a stab in the dark for someone buying off of eBay / at the store counter !

Personally, I have become something of a Bel Ray fan after using their gear oil (which makes a noticeable difference in shifting smoothness, finding neutral at a standstill, etc) and their v twin synthetic engine oil (which scored very highly on Comnoz’ testing).

Also, I have had very bad experience with Silkolene fork, and engine oil, losing its viscosity frighteningly quickly.

So, for me personally, I’ll be trying the Be Ray fork oil, so thanks for posting that list !
Click to expand...
Just use the HVI.
 
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