Incredible India ....

Well, as I’m working in India at present, I finally succumbed to the lure of the open road and a Royal Enfield. So a pal / colleague and I hired two 500cc Bullets and did a couple of hundred km on Sunday.

This was something of an experience…

Riding in the city (Chennai, formerly Madrass) was strangely not as bad as it looks from the comfort of the back seat of a car. Hectic and mad yes, but not as utterly chaotic as it looked to us initially. You do have to get used to the different rules, for example, there is no such concept as ‘give way’. It’s simply a concept of ‘gradually push in’. Spatial awareness is also different. If I left what seemed like a reasonable gap between my buddy and I, trucks, buses, cows, et al would push in between us. And one has to learn new rules for use of the horn. Basically, if you don’t beep your horn, you do not exist and everyone and everything will just pull out in front of you no matter how close you are, or how fast you’re going. I’m a fast learner. My ‘horn thumb’ was aching by the end of the day!

Then we got out of the city and onto the East Coast Road that runs to Pondicherry. I expected this to be the safe / fun part. It was not quite as expected…

Out on the open road one is exposed to a very different situation. I guess its the same rules as in the city really, its just that everything is going faster. Dangerously so.

One is constantly faced by the site of an oncoming tuk-tuk over taking a cow, being overtaken by a bus, that is being overtaken by a tuck, which is coming head on towards you from the apex of a totally blind bend.

The truck drivers definition of a corrective manoeuvre at this point is… flash his headlights at you…!

Flashing your headlights back has no effect whatsoever.

We were in the gutter on several occasions.

Anyway, we enjoyed the day, and survived incident free (I was genuinely pleased to end the day alive and without injury).

Having ‘ticked it off’ … I am in no hurry to do it again!

My experience of driving a car in India is that you can make it home on two flat tyres and a vice grip to replace the steering wheel that was stolen during a stop for chai, but if the horn stops working you call a tow truck. Nevertheless visiting India is always an enchanting and wondrous experience.

My introduction to motoring in India was in an old bus that had a least 3 full turns of slop in the steering wheel before it had any effect - so I sat near the back after that. As said, over there 'might is right' and buses seem to think they take priority over everything, so its certainly a "dynamic experience".

Some of the folks here have been on guided or chaperoned Enfield adventures up in the hills, where the traffic is at least a bit thinner. Which sounds at least survivable, and even enjoyable.

Rohan said:

My introduction to motoring in India was in an old bus that had a least 3 full turns of slop in the steering wheel before it had any effect - so I sat near the back after that. As said, over there 'might is right' and buses seem to think they take priority over everything, so its certainly a "dynamic experience".

Some of the folks here have been on guided or chaperoned Enfield adventures up in the hills, where the traffic is at least a bit thinner. Which sounds at least survivable, and even enjoyable.

Click to expand...

Chaperoned tours are often seen by some as a 'soft option' and / or not seeing the real country etc (myself included TBH).

However, my strong advice to anyone wanting to enjoy a motorcycling experience in India would be to overcome that thought and ONLY consider a guided tour option!

I agree with you Rohan, a guide will know the best places, safest routes, and be able to guide you in the rules of the road etc.

How did you navigate around ?

Rohan said:

How did you navigate around ?

Click to expand...

First we took advice from local guys we are working with as regards a route and destination.

Then we scoped it out using on line maps.

And my riding buddy used a smart phone navigation app.

We got lost a lot, but it only added to the overall experience!

Fast Eddie said:

We got lost a lot, but it only added to the overall experience!

Click to expand...

If you don't take that attitude, you are in for a rough time in India !!

Somewhat means a DIY schedule is rather in the lap of the gods though,
if you have places to be and bookings all arranged.... ?

I saw some bikes with no lights on at night there. When I got a chance to ask a rider why he said because lights rob power from the motorbike. Incredible India !

Torontonian said:

I saw some bikes with no lights on at night there. When I got a chance to ask a rider why he said because lights rob power from the motorbike. Incredible India !

Click to expand...

Lights, like helmets, are legal requirements ... that are 'optional' out here ... !

There's a bloke called Guy Martin - among other things, he occasionally rides a motorcycle around a small island off the West coast of England. There's a TV series "Our Guy in India" in which he bums around on a second-hand Enfield. You'll find some of it on the web if you search. Worth a look.

davamb said:

There's a bloke called Guy Martin - among other things, he occasionally rides a motorcycle around a small island off the West coast of England. There's a TV series "Our Guy in India" in which he bums around on a second-hand Enfield. You'll find some of it on the web if you search. Worth a look.

Click to expand...

Yes, they are great programs to watch.

But... They did rather focus on the positive aspects, and rather downplayed the negative.

And I rather suspect its a tad different traveling by motorcycle when you have a large entourage and film crew with you versus simply traveling by motorcycle.

My point being, Guys program was fantastic, but it only showed half the story ...!

After watching the first series I really wanted to go ride India myself. I hear what you're saying Ed, but it still hasn't put me off. Still got a fair chunk of Aus to ride yet though, and I've been at that task for well over 40 years.

Seemed to me that Guy travels pretty light in terms of support. I should check the credits and see if my perception is correct.

davamb said:

After watching the first series I really wanted to go ride India myself. I hear what you're saying Ed, but it still hasn't put me off. Still got a fair chunk of Aus to ride yet though, and I've been at that task for well over 40 years.

Seemed to me that Guy travels pretty light in terms of support. I should check the credits and see if my perception is correct.

Click to expand...

You'll probably be fine. There are 10 million people in Chennai and 'only' 1300 road traffic deaths each MONTH. So statistically at least, you've got a fair chance of survival.

Ha, ha, ha! Ahhh you're cracken' me up. Thanks - I needed a larf.

davamb said:

Ha, ha, ha! Ahhh you're cracken' me up. Thanks - I needed a larf.

Click to expand...

Not kidding tho mate, 1300 road traffic death per month in one prefecture ...

All I can say is, I'm surprised its so low !