Ignition light MK 111 acting up .

Torontonian

Torontonian

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Key turned to Position 3 , faint red light on console , Ign . light . Starts up and runs good . Driving , the light gets brighter , then decides to drop out for a few seconds , then comes on again . Running good , turn to position 4 ( full lighting ) and light goes out immediately . Runs good .
LED's , all lighting . Battery test voltmeter shows 12.74 upon returning home .
 
06-6392 . Stencil painted on the front of the unit . Is the unit owner serviceable ? I'll look through my stash of parts for another one from my basket case Canadian MK 111 . Both units would be a good 51 years old though .
 
Torontonian said:
06-6392 . Stencil painted on the front of the unit . Is the unit owner serviceable ? I'll look through my stash of parts for another one from my basket case Canadian MK 111 . Both units would be a good 51 years old though .
Click to expand...
Hmmm...I've got one in my spares...taken off my Canadian model HiRider when I went to an LED Charge Warning Light. I'll swap it for your Barnett plates.... ;-)
 
Torontonian said:
Key turned to Position 3 , faint red light on console , Ign . light . Starts up and runs good . Driving , the light gets brighter , then decides to drop out for a few seconds , then comes on again . Running good , turn to position 4 ( full lighting ) and light goes out immediately . Runs good .
LED's , all lighting . Battery test voltmeter shows 12.74 upon returning home .
Click to expand...
Dump the original warning light assimilator, fit a Battery Status Monitor.
 
Madnorton said:
Dump the original warning light assimilator, fit a Battery Status Monitor.
Click to expand...
Today I ordered in from U.K. , improvingclassicmotorcycles.com , Graham Blighe , the standard charge warning light as recommended by Greg Marsh ,to fit the MK 111 . I'll need to get rid of the original WLA unit 06-6392 and wire it into place if anyone can help , please comment . Canada Post is on strike just in time for Xmas , so this little item won't arrive for a while .
 
Just needs connecting in series with the power on from ign switch. Be aware that guidance from Mr. Blighe is to have suppressor resistance in ignition (resistor plugs or caps) as the unit is supposedly susceptible to damage from EMI.
 
Tornado said:
Just needs connecting in series with the power on from ign switch. Be aware that guidance from Mr. Blighe is to have suppressor resistance in ignition (resistor plugs or caps) as the unit is supposedly susceptible to damage from EMI.
Click to expand...
I run non suppressor plugs , caps and H.T. leads ,with never an issue to date .
But I will need a simple wiring diagram to use this unit without the WLA .
 
Torontonian said:
Today I ordered in from U.K. , improvingclassicmotorcycles.com , Graham Blighe , the standard charge warning light as recommended by Greg Marsh ,to fit the MK 111 . I'll need to get rid of the original WLA unit 06-6392 and wire it into place if anyone can help , please comment . Canada Post is on strike just in time for Xmas , so this little item won't arrive for a while .
Click to expand...
I have the Deluxe Charge Warning Light with Lucas Style LED installed on my '72 Combat with positive ground. There is a white wire coming directly from the ignition switch that was used for the abandoned WLA and a red ground wire in the headlight shell that can be used to connect this. The unit consists of a small module with 2 wires coming out of it (red and black)--install it inside the headlight shell and connect the red wire to the red ground wire and the black wire to the white wire and slide the LED lamp that is prewired to the module into your existing red warning light lens after removing all of the old WLA components (all of the old wiring can remain). The module has circuitry that monitors the battery voltage and turns the light on or off depending on the charging status. If you are using a lithium battery, you will need to call Graham to special order the device since he will need to alter the various voltage thresholds programmed into the module for this. One warning--you need to have little or no voltage drop from the battery to the module or the light will not be accurate. I had a 0.3 voltage drop from the battery to the ignition switch because the brown/blue wire went through so many connectors that had been abandoned when a Tri-Spark electronic voltage regulator was installed and the OEM rectifier, capacitor, and zener diode were removed. I just abandoned all of that and installed a new brown/blue wire from the battery directly to the ignition switch that eliminated the voltage drop.
 
BSM needing filters, fitted where it needs to be close to battery voltage, special one for Lithium. Mine works with any battery, does not need filters, and is fitted where it is convenient, it also dims at night. If you are not getting decent voltage on the output side of the ignition switch then something is wrong and more reason to fit there and not nearer the battery and kid yourself all is well.
 
HouTexNorton said:
There is a white wire coming directly from the ignition switch that was used for the abandoned WLA
Click to expand...

There's no white wire to the original '72 silver can assimilator, in any case this is a Canadian Mk3.

HouTexNorton said:
slide the LED lamp that is prewired to the module into your existing red warning light lens
Click to expand...

This isn't possible with the standard P&K Mk3 warning lamp and it's not in the headlamp shell although Torontonian has an LED so possibly if it's that type, mine isn't, also a Mk3.

Ignition light MK 111 acting up .
 
Just out of curiosity, but doesn't the Canadian assimilator also have something to do with constant on headlight?
 
L.A.B. said:
There's no white wire to the original '72 silver can assimilator, in any case this is a Canadian Mk3.



This isn't possible with the standard P&K Mk3 warning lamp and it's not in the headlamp shell although Torontonian has an LED so possibly if it's that type, mine isn't, also a Mk3.

Ignition light MK 111 acting up .
Click to expand...
There is a white wire in the headlight shell that comes from the ignition switch and goes to the OEM WLA lamp and a brown/white wire that goes from the lamp to the WLA. I abandoned the brown/white wire and used the white wire to go to the new CWL. I know that Torontonian has an Mk3--just trying to tell him the experience I had with my Combat since he asked for comments about this particular new CWL.
 
HouTexNorton said:
There is a white wire in the headlight shell that comes from the ignition switch and goes to the OEM WLA lamp
Click to expand...

Yes, white goes to the light.

HouTexNorton said:
I know that Torontonian has an Mk3--just trying to tell him the experience I had with my Combat since he asked for comments about this particular new CWL.
Click to expand...

Ok, it's just that the Mk3 (especially the Canadian assimilator Mk3) wiring is somewhat different to a '72 Commando.
 
You may want to keep the functionality of the original Canadian assimilator. In position 2 the lights are isolated from the battery and fed only by the alternator and they are half bright. So the lights being on cannot run the battery down in traffic. Mine went bad about 3 decades ago and I wired around it and ran it that way for years. I installed a Lucas 3-phase alternator to keep the battery up. Eventually I replaced the assimilator and undid my work-around and all has been well since. I suspect that a new assimilator would have fixed the commuting-in-traffic problem without the 3-phase alternator.

I tried to replicate the assimilator function on my 84 BMW which has the same in-traffic problem but worse as there's no kick starter So I got a handfull of diodes to make a headlight isolator but gave up as I couldn't fit it all in the headlight shell. My solution to that was a Suprisa alternator used on Ducati that is like the Lucas system with a permanent-magnet and Zeenrs so there's no parasitic drain from the field coils. This was lots better but not perfect. The Bosch alternator's field coils drain a significant amount of power from the main output, like 50% IIRC at idle. Then I moved out of the city and the problem went away completely.
 
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