ID plate and removing stubborn yokes

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elefantrider

elefantrider

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Why do the originals always look so faded and crappy? Are repros being custom made with serial numbers and how difficult are they to replace? The rivets do not look conventional.

I have unscrewed the bottom nut holding the triple tree but have yet to use a puller to remove the trees.
 
Re: ID plate

You shouldn't need a puller.
The steering head has upper and lower ball bearing races with a spacer in between (late set up) , the stem comes off the upper triple, passes through the bearings with the lower triple bore being a push fit over the stem, the nut secures it.
It doesn't hurt to grab the lower triple before you remove it and check for any detectable fore and aft play at the lower bearing which can be the steering head cup wear where the bearing seats.

ID plate and removing stubborn yokes


ID plate and removing stubborn yokes
 
Re: ID plate

Thanks for the nice pics and info. I might try a rubber mallet first. The bottom tree is stuck on there pretty good.
It's a 1971.
 
Re: ID plate

elefantrider said:
Why do the originals always look so faded and crappy?
Click to expand...


Something to do with them being 40 years old, perhaps?


elefantrider said:
Are repros being custom made with serial numbers
Click to expand...

Genuine replacement plates are available from Andover Norton parts suppliers, however you usually have to make your own arrangements as far as stamping is concerned.
Not all plates are the same.
http://www.andover-norton.co.uk/SICerti ... Labels.htm

elefantrider said:
and how difficult are they to replace? The rivets do not look conventional.
Click to expand...

They are what's known as 'hammer drive' rivets and they should also be available from Norton parts suppliers.
As you intend to remove the yokes/trees the easiest way to remove the rivets is to grind the heads off, then punch the shanks through into the tube.

Time Warp said:
You shouldn't need a puller.
Click to expand...

However, the lower yoke/tree is often rusted to the stem so it may require penetrating fluid and a certain amount of force to free it.

.
 
Re: ID plate

elefantrider said:
Thanks for the nice pics and info. I might try a rubber mallet first. The bottom tree is stuck on there pretty good.
It's a 1971.
Click to expand...

The triples in the pic are off my 71 Fastback when I replaced the bearings not that there was much wrong with them.
I don't seem to remember to much trouble but as L.A.B. says..........

I hope posting actual Commando content doesn't disrupt the new board format. :roll: :wink:
 
Re: ID plate

Mine were rusted like a S.O.B., and the bike showed NO signs of having been left out in the elements for any length of time. Clock faces, seat cover, rims, etc. all looked sun damage free.
ID plate and removing stubborn yokes


ID plate and removing stubborn yokes
 
Re: ID plate

elefantrider said:
Big ass rubber hammer not working. Is there a better place to hit it?
Click to expand...

A hide mallet or a hammer and a wooden block would probably give better results, also which direction are you hitting it, as bracing the upper yoke whilst knocking the lower yoke sideways (as there's no key or splines) is preferable to hitting it in a downwards direction. Also use some heat (as well as penetrating fluid) if necessary.
 
Been hitting the lower yoke down, will try hitting it to the side while bracing the top. Royal PITA!
 
Nope, needs some sort of puller. Yoke will rotate with a hammer but not coming off, will as tight as when I started.

Which brings me to the question, do I need to remove the yokes in the first place in order to fish out the rivet ends. Or can I just leave them in there?
 
Re: ID plate

elefantrider said:
That is nasty. Did you need to use a puller to separate it?
Click to expand...
I used an aluminum drift and 3lb. hammer. Be careful, the soft steel pivot tube can deform easily.
 
elefantrider said:
Nope, needs some sort of puller. Yoke will rotate with a hammer but not coming off, will as tight as when I started.

Which brings me to the question, do I need to remove the yokes in the first place in order to fish out the rivet ends. Or can I just leave them in there?
Click to expand...

If you've gone that far , and the yokes are that stuck, it might be best to continue removal.
 
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