N
nortonspeed
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swooshdave said:
There CAN be much difference, using a vacuum gauge is the only proper way to synchronise your carbs.
Well done Xbacksideslider :idea:
I LOVE These New Flat Slides!!!
- Thread starter highdesert
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There CAN be much difference, using a vacuum gauge is the only proper way to synchronise your carbs.
Well done Xbacksideslider :idea:
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Just trying to figure out this photobucket thing.
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While I'm futzing with posting pics, why do I have to go to View on my tool bar and click on Zoom and reduce everything I see to 75% to see the full pic I just posted, or, to get access to the site controls that are under the "Norton Commando" logo? When my View/Zoom is set at 100%, User Control Panel and the Jerry Doe lines are buried under the logo.
As for the Keihin install, I'll be replacing those 3/16" rubber windshield washer/vacuum lines with gasahol compatible 3/16" silicone lines and the safety wire with Japanese spring clips.
As for the stock air filter unit and the Keihins, in looking at these carbs and the stock air filter box, I think they can be integrated into a nice clean stock looking set up. It would take a double take then to see that the carbs are not Amals. The base plate might have to be moved up and back and then . . . . . some rubber boots of the correct diameters . . . . to bridge from the carb to the front plate . . . .
As for the Keihin install, I'll be replacing those 3/16" rubber windshield washer/vacuum lines with gasahol compatible 3/16" silicone lines and the safety wire with Japanese spring clips.
As for the stock air filter unit and the Keihins, in looking at these carbs and the stock air filter box, I think they can be integrated into a nice clean stock looking set up. It would take a double take then to see that the carbs are not Amals. The base plate might have to be moved up and back and then . . . . . some rubber boots of the correct diameters . . . . to bridge from the carb to the front plate . . . .
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The PWKs were a hit with the Northern California BSA OC this past weekend.
They had a weekend street ride around the Lake Isabella area and my Norton without doubt was one of the fastest Brit bikes there. Many commented upon how well she idles and they admired her one kick starting. Admittedly, the Trispark also contributes to her fine manners.
On a straight empty stretch above the lake, at about 2700 ft elevation she indicated 110 MPH at 7000 RPM on a 20 tooth.
The carbs also ran strong on the higher roads we traveled between 5000 and 7250 feet. I really did not notice any loss of power as the elevation rose, so she might be a tad lean on the mains with the 1.5" head pipes. I have not done any plug chops yet so I can't say . . . .
The left carb almost fell off - it is important to torque that clamp down harder than your "feel" might want to. It happened when I rolled slowly over some rough ground, just fell out of the rubber spigot.
Mixed it up with a fellow on a Suzuki super motard on Portuguese Pass - 7200 ft - a tight narrow dirty road - all 2nd gear - repeatedly coming off corners at 3500 and winding her out to near valve float at 7000. He could pull me a bit with close ratios coming off and out of the corners but I'd get it back at the end of the straights and on the entries and if the road allowed me to grab 3rd then I'd pull him decisively. Great ride. Shaky adrenalin high.
Last week, in getting the bike ready, and at low speeds, the new 1.5" head pipes turned golden in the first 8 or 10" so that suggests heat and some low speed leanness. The golden color did not deepen or change over the weekend.
That's it.
JBL
They had a weekend street ride around the Lake Isabella area and my Norton without doubt was one of the fastest Brit bikes there. Many commented upon how well she idles and they admired her one kick starting. Admittedly, the Trispark also contributes to her fine manners.
On a straight empty stretch above the lake, at about 2700 ft elevation she indicated 110 MPH at 7000 RPM on a 20 tooth.
The carbs also ran strong on the higher roads we traveled between 5000 and 7250 feet. I really did not notice any loss of power as the elevation rose, so she might be a tad lean on the mains with the 1.5" head pipes. I have not done any plug chops yet so I can't say . . . .
The left carb almost fell off - it is important to torque that clamp down harder than your "feel" might want to. It happened when I rolled slowly over some rough ground, just fell out of the rubber spigot.
Mixed it up with a fellow on a Suzuki super motard on Portuguese Pass - 7200 ft - a tight narrow dirty road - all 2nd gear - repeatedly coming off corners at 3500 and winding her out to near valve float at 7000. He could pull me a bit with close ratios coming off and out of the corners but I'd get it back at the end of the straights and on the entries and if the road allowed me to grab 3rd then I'd pull him decisively. Great ride. Shaky adrenalin high.
Last week, in getting the bike ready, and at low speeds, the new 1.5" head pipes turned golden in the first 8 or 10" so that suggests heat and some low speed leanness. The golden color did not deepen or change over the weekend.
That's it.
JBL
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David
I was wrong - you don't have to remove the back cover of the airfilter and the ignition switch can stay where it is. See photo below - the switch is plainly visible and the new pod aircleaners clear everything.
NORSA1
Both enrichening knobs are accessible. You reach over another 2" for the right one. You reach for both with the left hand. You can do both at once with one hand - a different finger on each knob. I do it sitting on the bike without looking for them - I just know where they are. Its easy & no big deal.
Jim
I was wrong - you don't have to remove the back cover of the airfilter and the ignition switch can stay where it is. See photo below - the switch is plainly visible and the new pod aircleaners clear everything.
NORSA1
Both enrichening knobs are accessible. You reach over another 2" for the right one. You reach for both with the left hand. You can do both at once with one hand - a different finger on each knob. I do it sitting on the bike without looking for them - I just know where they are. Its easy & no big deal.
Jim
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"
I was running a single Mikuni 34 for the past 15 years.
The difference is stunning"
Of course it is... but it would have also been stunning had you replaced the single Mikuni with a pair of properly set up Amals.
I was running a single Mikuni 34 for the past 15 years.
The difference is stunning"
Of course it is... but it would have also been stunning had you replaced the single Mikuni with a pair of properly set up Amals.
Of course it is... but it would have also been stunning had you replaced the single Mikuni with a pair of properly set up Amals.
Mike, I agree. Unfortunately, the Amals are rather short lived. My last new Amals are pretty well clapped out after 10,000 miles due to excessive slid wear. Yes, I do run an air filter.
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Amal deserves a lousy rep for selling zinc on zinc Concentrics for 40 years. A**holes.
As for the enricheners on the Keihins, heck, I start my 750 by enrichening one cylinder, the left side. Lift the enrichener, turn the key. The bike starts, at first running on the left side only, then the right side starts hitting, then I shut off the enrichener on the left, then I hold the idle at 1500 for 30 seconds, then it idles at 1000'ish rpm - for the rest of the day. Can't say that it is all the Keihins "fault," the Trispark helps with that too. I have the same opinion of Boyer as I do Amal, selling the wrong advance curve to Norton owners for 40ish years. A**holes.
With the Keihins and the Trispark, I was able to rotate the kick start lever counter clock wise a few teeth on the spline to optimize my foot/ankle peg steering action while riding because the bike now starts with such ease that I can get away with less kick starter travel/leverage.
As for the enricheners on the Keihins, heck, I start my 750 by enrichening one cylinder, the left side. Lift the enrichener, turn the key. The bike starts, at first running on the left side only, then the right side starts hitting, then I shut off the enrichener on the left, then I hold the idle at 1500 for 30 seconds, then it idles at 1000'ish rpm - for the rest of the day. Can't say that it is all the Keihins "fault," the Trispark helps with that too. I have the same opinion of Boyer as I do Amal, selling the wrong advance curve to Norton owners for 40ish years. A**holes.
With the Keihins and the Trispark, I was able to rotate the kick start lever counter clock wise a few teeth on the spline to optimize my foot/ankle peg steering action while riding because the bike now starts with such ease that I can get away with less kick starter travel/leverage.
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Although I really like the Amals and think they work extremely well when cleaned/trued/properly set up, I certainly can't argue that the choice of "like" metals for the slide/body is a poor one and means a much shorter trouble-free lifespan. It would be nice if the new Amals had a slide of SS or bronze or whatever material is optimum for the body instead of just reproducing the original zinc or pot metal or whatever it is.
TOTALLY agree re the Boyer. It would be fine on a race bike where the RPM never gets below 5-6K RPM, and maybe that's what it was originally designed to do but It is a very poor curve for any street-driven 4 cycle engine.
TOTALLY agree re the Boyer. It would be fine on a race bike where the RPM never gets below 5-6K RPM, and maybe that's what it was originally designed to do but It is a very poor curve for any street-driven 4 cycle engine.
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Hey Jay!
You're on here ????? Busa/DRZ Jay ????
Tim must'a put you up to it! Or . . . . some BSA spy!
LOL
Thought of you over the weekend. In fact, while eating in Acton Sunday afternoon, I told the story AGAIN! about you, me, the Commando, the DRZ, and Portuguese Pass; it gets better with each telling!
I'll send a PM
You're on here ????? Busa/DRZ Jay ????
Tim must'a put you up to it! Or . . . . some BSA spy!
LOL
Thought of you over the weekend. In fact, while eating in Acton Sunday afternoon, I told the story AGAIN! about you, me, the Commando, the DRZ, and Portuguese Pass; it gets better with each telling!
I'll send a PM
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Wish I had a more sporting riding mate, oh well.
As for old Boyers for racing, they sucked there too, if rev's dropped below max
advance rpm/5000, then the slow timing curve rise hurt the bikes power reponse coming out of turns. JIm Schimdt Race Manual details how to short out the trigger leads to advance the curve faster. Old Boyers were universal fit so had to be tamed back so Triumphs could stand the advance, not hot to trot Norton fast burn head.
As for old Boyers for racing, they sucked there too, if rev's dropped below max
advance rpm/5000, then the slow timing curve rise hurt the bikes power reponse coming out of turns. JIm Schimdt Race Manual details how to short out the trigger leads to advance the curve faster. Old Boyers were universal fit so had to be tamed back so Triumphs could stand the advance, not hot to trot Norton fast burn head.
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