Head steady spring, useful or junk?

Guido · Jun 18, 2014

contours said:
Well, I suppose it's a good thing I don't hear any chirping. When I checked the play in the joints I could get a little clicking sound, though. If you don't mind me asking, how much did your replacement cost?

I went to McMaster-Carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-ends/=sgr040

contours · Jul 16, 2014

I am happy to report that the rose joint bearings are okay. Better still, the vibration to my handlebars is far less than before I installed the DT unit AND after setting the assembly at 90° to the frame as in the instructions stated.

Lubricating it regularly now, too.

Lucky me!

acotrel · Jul 16, 2014

I'm thinking of designing one made out of Velcro.

contours · Jul 16, 2014

acotrel said:
I'm thinking of designing one made out of Velcro.

Okay! Should cost a lot less.

phillyskip · Jul 16, 2014

What's all this about these different head steadies? I've got the stock one on my 72 with the two rubbers on each side of the frame. Am I the only one still using these? What's the advantage of the CNW or DT item?

pete.v · Jul 16, 2014

phillyskip said:
What's all this about these different head steadies? I've got the stock one on my 72 with the two rubbers on each side of the frame. Am I the only one still using these? What's the advantage of the CNW or DT item?

Well the 73 on is better than the 72 cause it's boxed and not prone to fail.

Then being said, I believe the later, 73 on, units are just fine. I don't like the link type unit and I have tried it.
It is my opinion the PR headstrady is the best, priciest, but the best.
Again the boxed 73 on unit is just fine. If you have the original open type, upgrade at least to the later type for safety sake.

Philly, this is truly one for the search engine for it has been threaded and posted to death. Sure to get a few 100 hits, conservatively.

phillyskip · Jul 17, 2014

Thanks Pete,my head steady is actually from a 73. I'll go into the archives here and read up on this stuff.

DogT · Jul 17, 2014

There's also ludwig's design, which is much like the PR style, but home made.

rx7171 · Jul 17, 2014

Guido said:
contours said:

Well, I suppose it's a good thing I don't hear any chirping. When I checked the play in the joints I could get a little clicking sound, though. If you don't mind me asking, how much did your replacement cost?

Click to expand...

I went to McMaster-Carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-ends/=sgr040

Check out their rod end seals!
Keeps out dirt and holds in lube. Next time I'm under my tank I'll put some on.

kerinorton · Jul 18, 2014

I road my restored '71 750 today for the first time in ages. It goes like hell but vibrates through the bars enough to make my right hand go numb. Its got the original head steady and rubber exhaust mounts
[ they are the same sort of thing as the exhaust mounts ] . Its also got more solid pacers in the isolastic's. My '74 850 has been done the same way but that does not vibrate through the bars like the 750. any suggestions?
regards, Dereck
PS it is my show bike, whereas the 850 goes everywhere and doesn't have to look like a concourse bike.

olChris · Jul 18, 2014

Are the bars the same?? Are the iso's adjusted with the same clearance?? Are the tyres the same?? Is the BF % the same?? ... You might well be getting the early signs of a stroke.!!

IMO never will "A" bike be exactly the same as "B" bike just cos they have Norton written on the tank..

lwmcd1 · Jul 18, 2014

Keep the spring. It couldn't hurt.

Head steady spring, useful or junk?

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