Head Removal

WEM

WEM

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I’m preparing to remove the head from my 1974 Roadster. The head has been off twice previously in the 1970’s but hasn’t been touched for over 40 years. I think I have a handle on what has to be done but am curious if anyone has any hints, tips, etc. that they have come across or have developed themselves that might make the task a little easier.
 
There are 10 fasteners holding the head on. Never pry on the fins to loosen it. Once all the fasteners are removed the valve springs should pop the head off. Lift the head slightly then slide the pushrods into the head. With hands on both sides of the head rotate it backward to clear the pushrods from the cylinder. Slide the whole thing out the right side.
 
Lots of help on previous search threads . You will need a buddy to hold up the head to fit the pushrods , or use a short bungee cord to relieve the weight .
 
I get the pushrods up in the head as far as possible, loop rubber bands around the pushrods, hook the ends of the bands over anything I can on the top of the head & lift it out from the right side, re-assy is the same procedure but in reverse. I've also seen people use zip ties around the pushrods
 
drp said:
I get the pushrods up in the head as far as possible, loop rubber bands around the pushrods, hook the ends of the bands over anything I can on the top of the head & lift it out from the right side, re-assy is the same procedure but in reverse. I've also seen people use zip ties around the pushrods
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It's been covered many times on here
But that's is how I do it with a rubber band
I always work alone
Never had a problem,I understand that some people remove the complete engine to work on
That should make it even easier to remove/ fit the head
Everyone has their own way
 
milfordite said:
Valve springs don't always do the lifting. If it's stuck, use a piece of wood applied to the roof of the exhaust port with a hammer to jar it loose.
Click to expand...
Good advice
I often see heads with broken fins when people don't do this
 
I managed my first ever head pull on my own. Just pushed rods up into head, off the rockers and held with fingers as head tilted back and to the right. Takes a bit of finesse to get just the perfect angle of tilt vs right side lean.
I did use rubber bands for replacing, though had an issue with small bit of band breaking off and going down a tunnel. So head off, out with the shop vac and small tube nozzle to suction it out.

Next time I have it off, I will be removing the two front studs in the block to put locktite in the threaded holes. I have an oil seep that most likely is from hairline cracks from these stud holes into tunnels. A hard to detect and common issue. Currently kept at bay using sealant under the fixing nuts and washers.
 
WEM said:
I’m preparing to remove the head from my 1974 Roadster. The head has been off twice previously in the 1970’s but hasn’t been touched for over 40 years. I think I have a handle on what has to be done but am curious if anyone has any hints, tips, etc. that they have come across or have developed themselves that might make the task a little easier.
Click to expand...
I removed mine for the first time this month. Best tip I had was to remove the front engine bolt which allowed the engine to drop down by about 3/4 of an inch. That made it so much easier especially if your doing it on your own as I was. It‘s very easy to take the bolt out and if you support the engine on a Jack it makes it easy to raise the engine back up in line to replace the bolt.
 
I remove and replace my head by the book and just use my fingers to hold the push rods up have never had any problems doing it this way by myself, no need for rubber bands or anything at all, putting the head back on with the fingers holding the push rod up and once in position just let them drop down to the lifters then once down using a small screw driver to make sure the pushrods are on the rocker arms in the right position before bolting down.
 
ashman said:
I remove and replace my head by the book and just use my fingers to hold the push rods up have never had any problems doing it this way by myself, no need for rubber bands or anything at all, putting the head back on with the fingers holding the push rod up and once in position just let them drop down to the lifters then once down using a small screw driver to make sure the pushrods are on the rocker arms in the right position before bolting down.
Click to expand...
Is that in a commando frame Ash ? Or a featherbed?
 
I've done both P11 and Commando in the frame solo. Did use rubber bands to keep pushrods from dropping out when replacing.
Some sort of spacer to stop the head dropping fully gives more 'wiggle' room when fishing the rods back into the rocker arms, as does backing off the respective adjuster if needed (just count the turns out, then back in to get you close to where you started). Of course you'll be resetting the gaps properly anyway :-)
 
baz said:
Is that in a commando frame Ash ? Or a featherbed?
Click to expand...
Have done it with both Commandos and the Featherbed and do the same if on the bench, I have fixed a few head gaskets on mate's Commando's over the years as well a few Nortons.
 
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Head Removal
 
WEM said:
I’m preparing to remove the head from my 1974 Roadster. The head has been off twice previously in the 1970’s but hasn’t been touched for over 40 years. I think I have a handle on what has to be done but am curious if anyone has any hints, tips, etc. that they have come across or have developed themselves that might make the task a little easier.
Click to expand...
Heavy, awkward, but can be done alone. It is MUCH easier with a helper. Stonger person using two hands to manipulate the head and weaker to push the pushrods up into the head and then drop them out.

I find putting them back on by myself easy but getting off alone very hard (arthritis).
 
Just wondering if anybody has come across a thin walled 1/4” Whitworth wrench for sale. I have a wrench I can ground down but I’d rather not mutilate a perfectly good wrench if I don’t have to. I’m trying to get to the 1/4” Whitworth nut located under the rear of the head between the cylinders.
 
Very hard finding a thin wall spanner best to buy another one and grind it down just for that job, I have a few old ring spanner and sockets that I have ground down for those tight areas, they hang on my tool board just for those special bolts/nuts and not used on any other nut/bolts, I have a full set of WW sockets/ring and open ended spanners for my Norton and ground down special spanner/sockets for everything on my bike.
 
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