Fuel tap tear down

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Has anyone taken apart the new style British-made fuel taps?

Are they the cone brass type like the original taps?
Or do they have any rubber and plastic inside to fail with today's Ethanol-laced gasoline?

I have an attached garage and when storing the bikes I remove fuel from tanks to eliminate any risk of leak and gas odor.

Ever since I have seen Ethanol-laced gas eat through a 7 year old rubber gas line and leak, I am wary of it.
 
The British made fuel taps are made with a Brass type cone. However, there is an O-ring on the outer edge of the cone so that it gets a little bit extra sealing. One of my fuel taps is starting to seep fuel after about 5 years of usage. I have to figure out where to get replacement O-rings.

Peter Joe
 
My '74 850 taps were leaking when I acquired the bike 8 months ago. Took them apart to see if fixable. One was a brass cone, with o-ring. Other was a white plastic cone with o-ring. Gave up attempting renewals and just bought Paioli taps for a great price point from EuroJumbalya.
 
Nitrile or Viton O-rings are available on Amazon. If easy to replace, I will probably go that route if mine fail.
Haven't had them apart yet to see if O-rings are replaceable on them.

Would like to figure out a way to successfully rebuild the stock appearing E.W. units with the brass cone.
I have a ton of those laying around.
 
There are BAP copies around so be careful, I had one shear at a thread root.
 
Had a set of nice repop OEM style taps as described on my 72 until I felt the rear tire break loose on a low speed turn. Looked down expecting to see oil and it was raw gas pouring onto the engine. Threaded portion of the tap snapped off at the petcock nut. Pitched both in the trash and bought a set of good BAPs (all metal, not the ones with plastic components). No issues since.

Scott
 
The BAP taps are a good solution. But further to Kommando's comment, even the BAP taps can break if you overtighten the nut. Use a new rubber/copper sealing gasket, then tighten the locking nut no more than you need to keep the tap from moving. For the record, I have never had one break.

Stephen Hill
 
The one that broke did look inferior to older BAPs, suspect an Indian copy as some on eBay are sold out of India but I bought it from the Douglas IOM paddock.
 
I've repaired the EW taps, but it's not a final solution. They eventually wear out again. Where do we get the EW type with the o-rings? I have the BAP and yes, they work but I'd rather have the original looking design.
 
Found a good photo showing one disassembled with brass cone and the o-ring. They are the only ones with the soldered-shut screen. (unlike the ones with the plastic screen holder).


Fuel tap tear down
 
Found a good photo showing one disassembled with brass cone and the o-ring. They are the only ones with the soldered-shut screen. (unlike the ones with the plastic screen holder).


Fuel tap tear down
Keep in mind that the o-ring only stops fuel from leaking out of the petcock itself, fuel can (and will) continue to seep into the carbs. After sitting all winter with this happening, come Spring, you'll find a wonderful slurry of fuel additives nicely condensed in your float bowls. Think; clogged idle jet...

Nathan
 
Keep in mind that the o-ring only stops fuel from leaking out of the petcock itself, fuel can (and will) continue to seep into the carbs. After sitting all winter with this happening, come Spring, you'll find a wonderful slurry of fuel additives nicely condensed in your float bowls. Think; clogged idle jet...

Nathan

Good point. That is what I am trying to prevent - Seeping in the carbs through the fuel lines. Assume that happens when the brass taper wears out?

I have not ever noticed one of mine leaking through the lever area.
 
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Switch to Tygon fuel lines. They will resist the ethanol.

Be aware that Tygon is simply a registered trademark of Saint Gobain North America who make a variety of tubing under the tradename "Tygon". This includes a variety of chemistries for transfer of products ranging from milk and beverages to chemicals like ketones and aldehydes as well as some for petroleum products. Many of the so-called Tygon tubing sold on the market today are varieties of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) with plasticizers for flexibility. Gasoline may leach these plasitcizers from the PVC leaving a hard brittle tubing.

Tygon F-4040A is recommended by Saint Gobain North America for use in fuel lines. I doubt most "Tygon" sold for motorcycle lines is F-4040A as it is colored translucent yellow to distinguish it from the other varieties.

I'm not saying that a clear tubing won't hold up against gasoline, but clear genuine Tygon will probably harden and leak with time. PVC tubing is called Tygon like facial tissues are called Kleenex. Make sure any tubing you use is formulated for gasoline.
 
Keep in mind that the o-ring only stops fuel from leaking out of the petcock itself, fuel can (and will) continue to seep into the carbs. After sitting all winter with this happening, come Spring, you'll find a wonderful slurry of fuel additives nicely condensed in your float bowls. Think; clogged idle jet...

Nathan
And with the bowls full, another fraction of an inch has fuel dribbling down the manifolds and into the cylinder. I'm all for the stock appearance, yes, but not at that risk level.
Give me the BAP taps, where it takes several seconds to tickle the carbs, assuring me that the bowls are not already full of gas.
 
Beware, the levers on these fuel taps bend with ethanol laced sticky fuel. This is particularly true of the Reserve which is moved less often. Now looking for a replacement lever for my reserve tap.
 
Beware, the levers on these fuel taps bend with ethanol laced sticky fuel. This is particularly true of the Reserve which is moved less often. Now looking for a replacement lever for my reserve tap.

Sorry, which taps have the bending levers?
 
the ones in the pic above do. If the o-rings disintegrate, it and the fuel makes it stick like glue. And the cheap metal levers bend... dont ask how I know.
 
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