Fork Top Nuts

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Stainless OK, Not necessarily the best. After market threads can be iffy and these thread are kinda important. I suggest OEM.

You will unscrew the top nut and compress the forks to reveal the spring and damper rod threaded into the nut.

You will have to pry a wrench onto the stop nut to remove the top nut from the rod.
 
When you undo the outer thread of both "nuts" and compress the forks it all happens very fast and you are likely to have the front of the bike drop down from gravity and see about 10" of spring suddenly sticking out of the top of the forks. This is OK and makes it easy to work on but a little unnerving the first time. Put a towel or rag around your instruments.
 
batrider said:
When you undo the outer thread of both "nuts" and compress the forks it all happens very fast and you are likely to have the front of the bike drop down from gravity and see about 10" of spring suddenly sticking out of the top of the forks.

Personally, I prefer to do it by supporting the frame with a jack (usually under the front ISO mount) so that the front end can be raised or lowered in a controlled manner, or the front wheel (and thus the sliders and spring/damper assembles) can be raised or lowered and chocked at the desired working height once the top 'nuts' (bolts) are free of the stanchion threads.
 
I have also found that if you just do one fork bolt at a time (keep one screwed in and remove one at a time) then the bike doesn't drop down violently. The one side supports the forks sufficiently that you can remove the bolt, replace with new, then do the other side. That, or use a jack support under the frame as described above. Good luck!
 
As a side note - the 9/16" spanner (wrench) supplied in the factory Norton tool kit is thin enough to fit between the spring and top nut without prying anything. It also fits the nut holding the chain guard to the left rear shock mount. Dunno if that was intentional, but I smile every time I get to use that tool.
 
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