Fork top "nut" engagement

Does your friend plan on painting these black? I've made a lot of stuff like this from West System epoxy and cloth (fiberglass, poly or carbon fiber). Once painted nobody knows the difference and there is plenty of strength.

Mr. Rick, I predict that the case will distort / crack / implode before the bracket bends. Any takers ?

Don, those are really nice are they standard cases machined, or have you manufactured them?


Cheers,

cliffa.

cliffa said:

Mr. Rick, I predict that the case will distort / crack / implode before the bracket bends. Any takers ?

Don, those are really nice are they standard cases machined, or have you manufactured them?


Cheers,

cliffa.

Click to expand...

No they are new castings I did some years ago. a few sets left.

cliffa said:

Mr. Rick, I predict that the case will distort / crack / implode before the bracket bends. Any takers ?

Cheers,
cliffa.

Click to expand...

The cases are pretty well supported by the turned section of wood. After seeing them lift the back of the workbench while trying to push the cup downward (ear clamped in the vise at the front of the bench), and now going in reverse, trying to push the cup up from the floor with the bench braced down with a 4x4 going to the ceiling, it looks like the benchtop itself (where the vise is mounted) will probably fail, having been made of thick particle board.
It's breaking his heart, but a trip to the machine shop for cutting and welding seems imminent...

Back to the first question: Can we afford to forego any of the threads on the "nolts"?

The answer here seems to be "sure" unless they fail. Both of them failing at the same time would be rather interesting for the rider. You can find these made from stainless steel, so somebody is turning these out on a lathe. Maybe contact one of those guys and see if they can make some extra long for you.

Here is another option. You can use a 1971 or newer BSA/Triumph instrument cup and brackets. I have actually seen a picture of them used on a Commando in a book. Here are a few pictures of an instrument cup and bracket that I have. I stuck a Commando speedometer in it to show that it would work. As you can see in the side view, the instrument bracket already has an angle in it. However, you could bend it to another angle if needed. You can only angle the instrument so far before you begin having a problem with the drive cables. If you plan on using electronic instruments that should not be a problem. Also the rubber cup is keyed to the chrome bracket however, I would think you could overcome that easily enough.

Boy the Brits sure knew how to make rubber back in the day. That instrument cup that I have is at least 40 years old and it's still in good shape.








Peter Joe

Good bit of lateral thinking there Peter. Problem solved surely ?

they have a habit of cracking from vibration, but its an easy option for sure

That habit would surely be none existent on a Commando ?

Thanks, rvich and Peter Joe. Both are good solutions, and I really like the "longer nolt" concept. Any idea who is actually making these?
On the bike now is a pair of SS standard length , but found at a swap meet, no idea of the origin.

Noticed that cut/weld will likely blow off the cast-in part numbers on the ears, we don't want that if we can help it...

Mr. Rick, how is your "friend" getting on?

By the way, I have had a lot of success using low temperature (730°f) aluminium brazing rods. There are many brands available, e.g. Lumiweld, Alumiweld. There is a very clear & concise video here

I would cut 1/2 to 3/4 of the way through the mount, open the cut with a triangular file then bend it to the required angle and weld. You need to be careful how far you bend as go too far and you wont be able to get the "nolts" back in.


Cheers,

cliffa.

"be careful how far you bend as go too far and you wont be able to get the "nolts" back in."

Excellent point, which had not even occurred to me. Thanks, cliffa, for that and the video, too!

I case anybody has a stock fork stanchion p/n 06-3423 laying about loose, I'd appreciate knowing the depth of the threading for the top nuts.
I mean, how much of the top end of the stanchion is threaded internally?
Thanks in advance--