Fork Leak (Bottom Bolt/Fibre Washer)

MCP said:
Tried compressing the forks and used a long bolt in the fork drain hole to get the bottom bolt out#18. Didn't work. Looking at your suggestion next Greg, but if I can't get the bottom bolt out at this stage; wondering if these steps will work?
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If you can't get it out, then here's the alternate.

Unscrew the top bolt from the fork tube and then remove it from the damper rod. Remove the spring retainer nut and washer. Pull the spring out. Move the gaiter out of the way. Unscrew the collar. Pull the slider off the fork tube - the damper will come with it.

If the damper cap was put on with locktite or is real tight, holding it while unscrewing the bottom bolt might work. If not, you'll have to become a gorilla and grab the damper with whatever you can and unscrew that bolt (you'll need a replacement damper (call me 703-200-4025).
 
marshg246 said:
Unscrew the top bolt from the fork tube and then remove it from the damper rod. Remove the spring retainer nut and washer. Pull the spring out. Move the gaiter out of the way. Unscrew the collar. Pull the slider off the fork tube - the damper will come with it.
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Just so I'm clear, referring to the schematic, loosen #33 so I can get to #15, and take that nut off. That allows me to pull the spring out. Thanks
 
The little guide spigot on the bottom of the damper body might be protruding out of the bottom of the slider. The bolt then only tightens onto the damper not the bottom of the slider. If that is the case the damper body will just turn as you tighten the bolt no matter what you do, and of course it will leak oil too.
There's two solutions;
Remove the damper body and file the excess length off the spigot.
Make up a thicker washer with a stepped bore or use the original washer and a spacer washer to clear the spigot.
 
HopperXL said:
An impact (rattle) gun works well on getting those bottom fork bolts loose/tight. Of course it needs to be a smaller gun appropriate to the size, or set on low torque, not the sort of thing your mechanic slams your car's wheel nuts home with.

For sealing,you could try a Dowty washer on the outside, ie steel washer with a rubber insert around the hole in the middle.
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I was thinking that, mainly because I know that on my Maxton fork legs there is a Dowty washer at the top doing a similar job! (There might even be one at the bottom, but I am struggling to remember!)
 
HopperXL said:
Yes there is always that!
And what, please, is the secret to getting the oi into the fork leg in 10 seconds? Enquiring minds want to know.
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1) Make a simple special tool. An old damper rod with a 3/8" UNF coupling nut locktited to the end.
2) Unscrew the top bolt
3) Remove the top bolt from the damper rod.
4) Remove the nut and thick washer from the damper rod and let it drop.
5) Pull out the spring
6) Dump in the oil - actually only takes 2-3 seconds rather than the slow dribble you must do with the spring in place.
7) Screw the tool onto the dropped damper rod
8) Slide the spring back in over top of the extended damper rod
9) Pull the damper rod up, hold the rod with long-nose pliers below the threads and unscrew the tool.
10) While still holding the rod put the thick washer and nut on.
11) Put it back together.

I do the same when rebuilding forks - really a time saver as you don't have to mess with the damper rod, spring, or oil until each fork is mounted.
 
marshg246 said:
1) Make a simple special tool. An old damper rod with a 3/8" UNF coupling nut locktited to the end.
2) Unscrew the top bolt
3) Remove the top bolt from the damper rod.
4) Remove the nut and thick washer from the damper rod and let it drop.
5) Pull out the spring
6) Dump in the oil - actually only takes 2-3 seconds rather than the slow dribble you must do with the spring in place.
7) Screw the tool onto the dropped damper rod
8) Slide the spring back in over top of the extended damper rod
9) Pull the damper rod up, hold the rod with long-nose pliers below the threads and unscrew the tool.
10) While still holding the rod put the thick washer and nut on.
11) Put it back together.

I do the same when rebuilding forks - really a time saver as you don't have to mess with the damper rod, spring, or oil until each fork is mounted.
Click to expand...
When I had the issue of rod unthreaded from top caps, (from a "pro" shop last assembling them), I managed to fish the fallen rod up with just a magnetic pick up tool. Was prepared for a lot of futzing around but the mag stuck well to end of sunken rod and she came up nicely. So that would save the need for a diy tool out of another damper rod.
 
Tornado said:
When I had the issue of rod unthreaded from top caps, (from a "pro" shop last assembling them), I managed to fish the fallen rod up with just a magnetic pick up tool. Was prepared for a lot of futzing around but the mag stuck well to end of sunken rod and she came up nicely. So that would save the need for a diy tool out of another damper rod.
Click to expand...
Ya, I used to build forks with a string tied to the rod which worked well. I also pulled up the rod with a magnet if I dropped it. Sometimes I assembled the damper and spring and installed them in the slider as a unit so I didn't need to mess with the rod - works great except for adding oil. Then I made the tool and discovered other uses like changing oil and it is way easier than any other way I've tried.

If I had only one bike and didn't build/work on bikes, I'm sure I never would have made the tool.
 
Quick update, got everything apart, and back together, a lot of gunk in the slider considering I only put 1000 miles on it since it was rebuilt. It didn't have a fiber washer on the inside. It does now.

Thanks all for the input. Much appreciated.
 
marshg246 said:
1) Make a simple special tool. An old damper rod with a 3/8" UNF coupling nut locktited to the end.
2) Unscrew the top bolt
3) Remove the top bolt from the damper rod.
4) Remove the nut and thick washer from the damper rod and let it drop.
5) Pull out the spring
6) Dump in the oil - actually only takes 2-3 seconds rather than the slow dribble you must do with the spring in place.
7) Screw the tool onto the dropped damper rod
8) Slide the spring back in over top of the extended damper rod
9) Pull the damper rod up, hold the rod with long-nose pliers below the threads and unscrew the tool.
10) While still holding the rod put the thick washer and nut on.
11) Put it back together.

I do the same when rebuilding forks - really a time saver as you don't have to mess with the damper rod, spring, or oil until each fork is mounted.
Click to expand...
Brilliant in its simplicity. Thanks for the tip.
I want to do a fork oil change this week so will be making up the tool. Not that I do it often but I hate that slow drizzle!
 
marshg246 said:
1) Make a simple special tool. An old damper rod with a 3/8" UNF coupling nut locktited to the end.
2) Unscrew the top bolt
3) Remove the top bolt from the damper rod.
4) Remove the nut and thick washer from the damper rod and let it drop.
5) Pull out the spring
6) Dump in the oil - actually only takes 2-3 seconds rather than the slow dribble you must do with the spring in place.
7) Screw the tool onto the dropped damper rod
8) Slide the spring back in over top of the extended damper rod
9) Pull the damper rod up, hold the rod with long-nose pliers below the threads and unscrew the tool.
10) While still holding the rod put the thick washer and nut on.
11) Put it back together.

I do the same when rebuilding forks - really a time saver as you don't have to mess with the damper rod, spring, or oil until each fork is mounted.
Click to expand...
With a few mods, you could scrap 1,3,4,7,9 and 10 from your list, and do it at least twice as fast.
 
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