For the naysayers K&N air filter

Here in BC with the " Collector" program there is also a " Collector Modified" and "Collector Multiplate" . Beyond that their is a " Vintage Vehicle" plate & insurance which is really cheap but very limiting, something like Parades and Repair shop destinations only.
Hey that might fit a few Norton's!

I use a Collector Multiplate for 5 bikes and hope to add a sixth shortly.
Its $700 per full year for all five with 2 million liability. I just move the plate onto the bike I'm riding. Ive mounted fixed studs on all five and then use wing nuts to secure.
It would be less than $700 if I bought minimal liability ($500,000)
Once in awhile Ill have a passenger other than my wife and that is where it could be extremely important to have a decent amount of liability insurance .Another instance is hitting a pedestrian or going down and taking out another biker.

It's important to note the difference between a plate with 2 million of insurance and a $20 plate that allows you to ride but offers no insurance.
There are States that do not require insurance of any kind, just a cheap plate.

You don't want to get into an accident with someone from one of those places as if funds are needed, you likely won't get any.
Actually we have "Underinsured Motorist Protection " at $25 per year, one fee covers all of your vehicles.
I always keep that one in effect.

And in my experience ICBC didn't object to the K&N filters for Collector status.

Glen

Yes our liability insurance is mandatory which includes the under insured drivers/riders that may bump you .... the plate is a little less than $20 per year and you must provide your insurance policy company name and policy number when getting your new tag .... I too carry $2 million coverage .... on regular vehicles safety inspection is every 2 years and unpopular .... some believe it only there to provide business to inspection stations .... these 2 yr intervals applies to both regular cars and bikes ... although you must get a new tag every year for a bike the car/truck tags are good for 2 yrs .... I am happy with the “A” plate program on the Norton , never come close to mileage limit and just makes owning it a bit less hassle , plus you get to save a couple of bucks
Craig

That's the difference, our plate and insurance is lumped together, all from a Government entity.
I think $700 per year for 5 bikes is pretty decent, but I really haven't looked at other areas.
Craig, what would it cost you to insure and plate 5 motorcycles for a full year in NS?
There is no restriction on use with this Collector program, other than the bike cannot be used for commuting to work.

Glen

Worntorn's post is quite detailed on our situation here in BC...and now I know there is such a thing as a multi plate option. Too bad this does not exist for regular vehicle coverage as well.
Note there there is no vehicle inspection requirement here, for safety or when selling. For collector status, you must submit detailed photographs to the insurance corporation ( yes, provincial gov run).
The application form is about one of the most poorly written forms I've ever encountered. An example is a
list of check box statements where instructions are that all must be checked to be eligible. But then goes on to include statements like " Convertible top must be free from holes". Checking that makes me a liar!
Also, a very odd requirement that brake lights must not have "purple
dots"!?! So it's OK to have pink or yellow dots?

Registration per year per bike is $47.50 .... I think our minimum liability here is $1million , not sure of cost as I routinely get the more expensive $2 mil option ... my 2 Italian road bikes cost close to $250 each per year with the added “all perils” clause which basically covers fire and theft .... AFAIK no multiple vehicles on one plate except for Dealers .... so to answer your question Glen it would be just about $300 per year per bike plus the $25 inspection fee every other year .... you guys on left coast getting a good deal ...
Craig

Nah, left coasters get much higher costs save for multiplate....one bike, minimum coverage, no perils/theft is around $1.2 k for 12 months....$100/month. About the same as my four wheel vehicle. Collector class brings that down to about $2-300 per year. Add another $3-400 per annum for full perils/theft coverage.

This is for metro Vancouver area. Gotta be one of the highest insurance costs in NA.

Obviously here insurance rates are a big issue , especially for the young, inexperienced and those who have had a claim .... for me I get preferred rates as deal with same Ins. Co. for almost 40 years and they get all my business ... some members in Ducati Club here are paying big for the basic mandatory coverage upwards of $2000 for the 6 month ride season , plus the Bank wants collision coverage if they have a loan on bike , so can get expensive here too
Craig

I'm saving so much on insurance that all the bikes are getting treated to new K&Ns!

Just to sneak us back on topic

Glen

Tornado said:

Norton is using the Emgo paper element in the HamCan b/c I have not heard it is possible to kit a K&N within the HamCan...just cone types seem to be used and I'm not ready to go there yet.

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You may want to fast forward but 7 years ago you could get a filter to fit the stock airbox.

swooshdave said:

...7 years ago you could get a filter to fit the stock airbox.

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I still have a K&N in the original ham can, but shelved it when converting to a single Mikuni. I'm keeping it (in case you thought I might sell it) with the assumption that she'll be getting a new set of Amals this winter. I was running K&N's aftermarket dual-spigot filter on the stock Amals just for ease of maintenance, but no performance/fuel mileage differences were noted.
Having run both stock pleated paper and drop-in K&N filters in a number of vehicles through the years (both on- and off-road), I can't say that the K&N has gained me anything, other than the fact that they can be serviced.
One of the more interesting applications of a pleated paper filter in an adverse environment that I've been involved with was a Massey Furguson swather. The air filter was a pretty unassuming-looking cylinder, but there was a little rubber "duck call reed" off one end. Inside was a set a vanes that would cause the incoming air to swirl and centrifuge the dust towards the outer walls, which then ended up by the duck call. Intake pulsations caused the reed to purge some air out of the can, carrying a considerable quantity of dust with it. I was always impressed by just how little dust actually made it onto the filter proper, and the inlet pipe to the engine was always spotless.
Looking at the initial cash outlay of the K&N as compared to pleated paper, I think I'll just go back to the paper filters. I think I just talked myself into selling that ham-can K&N...

Nathan

Don't under-estimate the ease at which you can change the K&N compared to the paper one. The K&N compresses and allows you to fit the filter housing.

While promoting the advantages of K&N for these old bikes, I shd point out that using the "clean and oil" type filter on a "modern" vehicle might seems like a good idea, but was a disaster on my Nissan pickup.
Despite being recommended and sold to me by the dealership, the oil contaminated a fine wire sensor and required a $400 throttle body replacement part.
That particular dealership is now out of business...

Mr. Rick said:

the oil contaminated a fine wire sensor and required a $400 throttle body replacement part.

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Should've made a claim to K&N for that...it is one of their warranteed issues...claim their filters will not cause sensor contamination if correctly oiled etc. Besides, oil can get onto Mass airflow sensors by normal blowback from the cylinders...and modern maf's have a burn off cleaning cycle just for this reason. I suspect your dealer may have been milking your for something not needed.. and went out of business for that kind of service.

Nay.

Mr Rick
Same here, always use them on cars and bikes, most have done high mileages, clean and re oil
around 10,000 miles and apart from my Commando and Atlas Z1R, all use stock or modified airboxes.

Mr. Rick said:

After scratching the paint on every removal of the stock filter, I was fed up, installed the K&N, couldn't be happier.

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Which K&N filter do you have? What did you do about the hose to the oil tank? My 850 has a K&N that looks like the K&N R-0990 but the mounts are not at an angle. I considered putting it on a 72 750 I just finished but I find it easier getting the carbs off to get at the ham can filter without paint damage than getting the K&N on! The PO installed it so it may be an issue of the rubber mounts - they seem to be too short and hard.

Welp, looks like I can get a K&N and keep my HamCan...

https://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=NO-0100

marshg246 said:

Which K&N filter do you have? What did you do about the hose to the oil tank? My 850 has a K&N that looks like the K&N R-0990 but the mounts are not at an angle. I considered putting it on a 72 750 I just finished but I find it easier getting the carbs off to get at the ham can filter without paint damage than getting the K&N on! The PO installed it so it may be an issue of the rubber mounts - they seem to be too short and hard.

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Yes, I have the R-0990 as seen here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/K-N-High-f...K&N+filter&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

It's deeper front-to-back than I wd wish, and a pain to pull, but it does mount at an angle to become level even though the carbs tilt forward.
Hose to the oil tank? Mine just vents downward to atmosphere.
And yes, if the rubber is too hard and cd not flex, it wd be terrible. But even then, removing the carbs is almost "last-ditch" resort for me

Mr. Rick said:

But even then, removing the carbs is almost "last-ditch" resort for me

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It was my second most hated Norton job until the 4th allen wrench I cut down was finally right. Short leg very short and long leg able to turn without hitting anything above and the edges of the short leg slightly beveled so it slips in nicely.

Yes, that shortened key for the outboard screws is fine, but just on general principles I refuse to use it for the inners.
Drilled a couple of holes in the gusset plate and use the longest T-handle 7/32 I cd find, for a straight shot down to the inner fasteners, chopped off part of the handle to help clear the top tube.
Life is too short and already too full of cursable moments.

Here's the one I use, but just a little longer wd be better:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bondhus-13...5&_sacat=0&_nkw=bondhus+13111&_from=R40&rt=nc