Flat battery start

Purchased my Yuasa YTX-14BS as specified in the euro 4 service manual. Removed the tank and find its too tall to fit





Turns out the one fitted is as below, bloody annoying

Oh dear , yep that’s same as mine , for my 2016 Mk2 euro3 , maybe Norton copy & paste the service manual for the triumph 675 again like they did for other years ? , I’m on second battery after 5 years

Having a bugger of an afternoon, exchanged the battery at halfords but with the extra noco leads, the battery bolts not long enough as i have heated grips fitted as well. Managed to find s bolt. Got it all fixed but the tank is fouling on the cables so a bit of re-routing needed. This noco lead is quite short and I am struggling to position it so that it is accessible. Giving up for tonight and hitting the beer

Cheers !!

Welshrugby said:

Purchased my Yuasa YTX-14BS as specified in the euro 4 service manual. Removed the tank and find its too tall to fit

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Looks like i had a lucky save, i ordered a YTX and the shop supplied a YTZ just because that was available.

Seem to remember there are two different battery specs in different parts of the manual....

Welshrugby said:

Purchased my Yuasa YTX-14BS as specified in the euro 4 service manual. Removed the tank and find its too tall to fit

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I still have my original YTZ battery sitting on the garage shelf. I charge it each month at the same time I charge other batteries for mowers etc. so it should still have some mileage in it, if I had known I could have run it down to you.

One obvious route for getting everything crammed into the battery carrier is to go lithium, the Shorai has to be packed out with 1" thick foam bottom, back and sides to stop it rattling.

Finding it difficult to position the lead so that i have access to plug in the boost, need an extension lead if one exists, otherwise will extend myself. Any boost experts?

Welshrugby said:

Finding it difficult to position the lead so that i have access to plug in the boost, need an extension lead if one exists, otherwise will extend myself. Any boost experts?

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Welshrugby said:

Finding it difficult to position the lead so that i have access to plug in the boost, need an extension lead if one exists, otherwise will extend myself. Any boost experts?

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If the kit came with crocodile clip connectors, u can always use that via the positive terminal on starter ( under red plastic cap +) and negative - on the foot rest

Tried to to position the tank but the bottom fixings wouldn't line up. Adjusted the cables for the noco boost and re-positioned the tank. Managed to get the fixings in. Gave up on the the seat fixings before it sent me mad. Who the hell designed the seat fixings. Cranked her over and the new battery fired her up. Trouble is, as soon as i touch the throttle, it starts to cut out as it did before i fitted the new battery.

Any ideas why twisting the throttle makes it cut out. I am losing my patience , I adore the bike when I ride it but it shouldn't be this hard for a bike with 3K miles on the clock.

I think this was mentioned in a previous post.
Could be the TPS.
When you open the throttle but the TPS doesn't send the signal to the ecu, there is no advancement to the timing.
Engine struggles to accelerate then dies.
Do you have an OBDII unit to read error codes?
Removing/replacing the tank is a bitch, period.
Possible you disturbed the TPS connector while wrestling with the tank?

Have you tried the TPS reset procedure ?

Regarding seat bolts, I always ensured they were lined up by sliding a right sized screwdriver through and wiggling. You can’t just put the seat on and expect things to line up cos they won’t !
I also ground a generous taper on the leading edge of the fixing screws, these two things seemed to make the job a breeze, even for a ‘sausage fingers’ like me !

Welshrugby said:

Finding it difficult to position the lead so that i have access to plug in the boost, need an extension lead if one exists, otherwise will extend myself. Any boost experts?

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Hi WR, did you see my response ref NOCO cables via the PM you sent me? Sucks that you are having so many issues - it’s a club nobody wants to be a member of.

I’m really surprised that you managed to get the tank on at all with the boost cables in place. As we know, the battery is a tight(ish) fit inside the tank and no doubt it was the cables that forced the tank over and miss-aligned the mounting bolts. Be careful not to put any additional stress on the tank mountings as they can start to rotate in the tank which can be a real PITA. Also, watch that additional battery post height doesn’t apply pressure, via tank to the battery tray; it is also prone to failure. Don’t want to be alarmist, but I’ve spent a lot of time taking the tank on and off lately, trying to solve my electrical issue and I believe that my problems resulted from a positive terminal cable failure (see light show thread - yet to be updated) and contact/vibration passed through the tank

As discussed, there is no extension cable listed on the NOCO site. Extending them yourself would be an option. Maybe setting up the starter motor points and using the bulldog clips may be a better option given the space constraints around the battery. Hope you can get things sorted without too much pain.

Fast Eddie said:

Have you tried the TPS reset procedure ?

Regarding seat bolts, I always ensured they were lined up by sliding a right sized screwdriver through and wiggling. You can’t just put the seat on and expect things to line up cos they won’t !
I also ground a generous taper on the leading edge of the fixing screws, these two things seemed to make the job a breeze, even for a ‘sausage fingers’ like me !

Click to expand...

I use an ice pick to align the seat and lock down threads, then the bolts goes in without issues.

Once I re-positioned the leads the tank had some more movement so I was able to see the threaded holes. I read about over tightening so was very careful not to. Prior to taking the tank off I had the cutting out procedure so don't think I knocked anything. Will search the TPS reset procedure. Will fix the seat when in a calmer mood. Hi Stephen, did not need to extend the noco leads in the end, they were long enough. Will take a picture to show postioning.

If I can check and reset the TPS all the better, if not, I plan to get the bike to the factory for MOT, service and maybe update of known issues (if they admit any)

I can’t recall where I read the TPS reset, it would either be on here or in the handbook or manual.

Anyway, it’s goes like this:

Switch bike off.

Switch ign on without starting engine.

Open throttle all the way to the stop and then close it again.

Switch off ign.

Switch on ign and start engine.

I forget the technicality behind what this does and why, but as it only takes 30 seconds and costs nowt it’s gotta be worth a try.

I‘d be talking to Krazy Horse if I were you. If you wait for the factory to open for servicing you’ll lose the summer (do we even know if they’re gonna do servicing?)

Thanks FE, I will look it up and at the very least try the above, I do remember reading it up on a thread so may be able to search it. So the factory not up and running yet for servicing. Maybe crazy horse then. Are they experienced in some of the Norton niggles, I guess they are. I have a trailer now but two man job pushing the 961 up the ramp. The Indian I could ride up

Nice trailer !

Fast Eddie said:

I can’t recall where I read the TPS reset, it would either be on here or in the handbook or manual.

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Tried the sequence and starts ok, usually second attempt but any sign of throttle, cuts out. I am needing an MOT so looks like a trip soon to get it back running again. Will try again over the coming days but tried half a dozen times already