Fast Idleing / Hunting

TonyA said:
Hello , Ok just got in the O2 sensor eliminator plugs . I am not telling you to eliminate your O2 sensors ! I just wanted to finish this thread with a little more clarity. The Norton 961 uses a 4 wire O2 sensor , 2 white and a 1 black and 1 grey wire . The white pair is a built in heater that Norton may NOT use and the black and grey pair is the signal with grey as signal and black being return. The eliminator plugs have a 330 OHM resistor across the signal pair. That is the grey and black , a 330 ohm resistor across grey to black. The white pair has a 1 Megaohm resistor across white to white. This is viewed from the O2 sensor plug end . Both resistors are 1/2 watt. The eliminator I ordered is the model that has the correct end plug like Aprilia ETV 1000 . This was the ebay link that nopdog or pigunz sent . Just look up WHEELZ CONNECTORS UK he sells on ebay.

Fast Idleing / Hunting
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Just got mine through - I am going to use the bike to work some more now the weather has improved and get an idea of the regularity of the fast idling issues. I'll then try the plugs and compare....
 
From new my bike idled at 1200rpm without fail and if I shut throttle at speed in prep for a roundabout etc I got instant throttle reduction and lots of engine breaking. Just had remap done with decat shorts and bike now idles at 1500rpm and if I close the throttle at speed I get very little engine breaking, it's as though the revs only drop once I start breaking.
 
I rode mine through quite a bit of traffic today and, for the first time, noticed the jerkiness that gets talked about.

As I understand it, the 02 elimination helps with this, is that right?

Guess I’ll get the plugs ordered, thanks for clarifying that Tony.
 
MxMartin said:
From new my bike idled at 1200rpm without fail and if I shut throttle at speed in prep for a roundabout etc I got instant throttle reduction and lots of engine breaking. Just had remap done with decat shorts and bike now idles at 1500rpm and if I close the throttle at speed I get very little engine breaking, it's as though the revs only drop once I start breaking.
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Very interesting. As an engineer I really want to understand this:- its like something is holding the throttle open/ continuing to provide fuelling. Idle control valve holding open?? Perhaps thats why I get that lovely overrun popping?? Is it preventing the revs dropping to the point where the idle control routine takes over. I'll see how it goes and report.

As I said before this is more a personality trait than a real issue and I LOVE RIDING THIS BIKE!!!!! Commuted to work today in the sunshine instead of the usual train trudge and got to work in such a good mood I never fired a single person!!!!
 
I don’t think that’s what these are all about Clive. I believe they’re more about removing the low end snatchiness and smoothing out the power delivery.

I think so anyway...
 
Fast Eddie said:
I don’t think that’s what these are all about Clive. I believe they’re more about removing the low end snatchiness and smoothing out the power delivery.

I think so anyway...
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It's the engineer in me needs to know - plus my herd is not exactly large so I can't afford to lose any neddies......
 
Using the resistors will eliminate the inconsistencies coming from the O2 sensors to the ECU. The O2 sensor input to ECU will be the same under all conditions. This would be ideal with a power commander installed. But exactly how it will help without power Commander is yet to be seen. I can imagine that cold starts will be improved and a more consistent idle I hope . The other benefits can be better fuel economy but I don't know. I will report back if I try this . Of interest to me is cold starts , consistent idle , no stalling at stops , low speed plug check , high speed plug check and finally fuel economy at a steady 70 mph which I will compare to my benchmark.
 
TonyA said:
Of interest to me is cold starts , consistent idle , no stalling at stops , low speed plug check , high speed plug check and finally fuel economy at a steady 70 mph ...
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Definitely of interest to me. I’d really like to trust this bike when I’m 100 miles from home. :rolleyes:
 
Welshrugby said:
Simon Skinner has warned us not to adjust the idle screw, I did mine slightly and now the throttle bodies have to be recalibrated. I believe the main concern is that the screw could vibrate loose but best to read his posts on I think it was the 50th anniversary thread and states it in the downloaded manual he let us have.
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Guys I personally know of at least 10 owners who adjusted that screw because their bikes would not idle. It is a set screw, get over it! There is a about a 1/4 turn of range, too far and the bike idles high when hot, too little and it stalls at stop lites etc. All the bikes have run great now for 4 seasons with no issues, no recalibration...ok. My dealer doesn't even know what the recalibration is!!! Do it or don't it, it's not rocket science, its a set screw!!! Rant over!!!
 
Hello guys , I may have given some bad information about the 4 wire Bosch type O2 sensor wiring signal names . I think I told you that the Black wire was the return (earth) . Here is a diagram that shows the wiring of the O2 sensor. Either way , the resistor information and which wires they are bridging is correct .
Fast Idleing / Hunting
Fast Idleing / Hunting
 
Last edited:
TonyA said:
Hello guys , I may have given some bad information about the 4 wire Bosch type O2 sensor wiring signal names . I think I told you that the Black wire was the return (earth) . Here is a diagram that shows the wiring of the O2 sensor. Either way , the resistor information and which wires they are bridging is correct .
Fast Idleing / Hunting
Fast Idleing / Hunting
Click to expand...
So our ebay purchase will work. Great news. C’mon weather!!!!
 

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