Exhaust system replacement 1973 750 Commando

They keep saying hard mounted Commando engines vibrate everything loose, have never had exhaust rose come lose or nothing has fallen off except for the stock Commando horn I had mounted under the rear of the Featherbed frame lol, not bad for a hard mount motor in the 45 years its been in the Featherbed frame, must have a crank balance factor just right.

Ashley
 
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The way Commando exhausts are fitted to the cylinder head is very old fashioned - there is no give in it. Vibrations can be transferred directly to the threads in the aluminium. Slip joints and springs are a much better way to go.
 
They keep saying hard mounted Commando engines vibrate everything loose, have never had exhaust rose come lose or nothing has fallen off except for the stock Commando horn I had mounted under the rear of the Featherbed frame lol, not bad for a hard mount motor in the 45 years its been in the Featherbed frame. much have a crank balance factor just right.

Ashley
The problem is caused by the way the exhaust is mounted on the Commando. On the featherbed bikes there is negligible relative movement between the exhaust mounting points on the engine and the frame. The silencers are also rigidly attached to the frame. This results in a high resonant frequency of the exhaust system with a low amplitude. That is generally trouble free. On the Commando an almost identical exhaust was used (to keep costs down). This meant that the silencers could no longer be rigidly mounted to the frame as the frame now moved relative to the engine and exhaust system. A cheap solution was to mount the silencers to the frame using the same rubber anti-vibration mounts as were used at the head steady (more money saved). We now had an entirely different resonant system with the exhaust rigidly attached at the engine and the rigid constraint at the frame replaced with a spring in all 6 degrees of freedom. The resonant frequency dropped into the normal engine operating range and the amplitude increased to a level capable of loosening all but the most secure joint at the rigid attachment to the engine (i. e. the exhaust ring nut). Now the exhaust was free to rotate in the port this changed the resonant system once again and the amplitude increased further causing mayhem.
 
When I was living in Melbourne, there was a guy at Moorabbin Airport, who was making exhaust systems for petrol-engined aircraft out of a nickel alloy - either Inconel or Hastelloy. It would be easy enough to fit stubs into the Commando head, tightened back against a sealing washer (as I have done ), and buy a set of nickel alloy header pipes with sleeves and tags for springs. The pipes would be much lighter than steel, and look real racey.
I would have had a nickel alloy 2 into 1 exhaust made for my bike, but I did not want to leave it where it might be stolen.
 
I was in Steve Oszkos workshop years ago, and commented on the exhaust on his Manx. It was really skinny and was made from the aircraft exhaust material. He said ' you bastard, you notice too much'. Some guys run fat pipes on Manx Nortons, and on Triumphs. It is more difficult to produce a note on a large diameter organ pipe, however a restriction in an exhaust pipe can lop a bit off the top end. With my 2 into 1 pipe, the crossectional area of the pipe after the collector is the sum of the crossectional areas areas of the two header pipes. I had found that out from experience. With my Triumph, I lost 2000 RPM, then regained 1000 RPM by fitting larger diameter tail pipe. But I got much more torque, than I had with separate pipes.
 
I must be doing something wrong. Apart from the rear indicator stalks I have never had anything vibrate off a Commando.

Lockwired lots of race bikes but struggling to remember anything falling off them either.

One of the reasons I like the high temp RTV is it forms a secure seal but is also smooth enough to be easily undone. Once I started using it the race bike exhausts never moved or leaked.
Its great to seal push to fit exhausts as well. I suspect the color is irrelevant and all rtv may really have the same temperature rating. Next time I will try grey to see if it withstands the high temperature application.
 
Its great to seal push to fit exhausts as well. I suspect the color is irrelevant and all rtv may really have the same temperature rating. Next time I will try grey to see if it withstands the high temperature application.
There is a ultra high temp one. Up to 370 C.

Honestly on my exhaust it survives just fine.
 
The problem is caused by the way the exhaust is mounted on the Commando. On the featherbed bikes there is negligible relative movement between the exhaust mounting points on the engine and the frame. The silencers are also rigidly attached to the frame. This results in a high resonant frequency of the exhaust system with a low amplitude. That is generally trouble free. On the Commando an almost identical exhaust was used (to keep costs down). This meant that the silencers could no longer be rigidly mounted to the frame as the frame now moved relative to the engine and exhaust system. A cheap solution was to mount the silencers to the frame using the same rubber anti-vibration mounts as were used at the head steady (more money saved). We now had an entirely different resonant system with the exhaust rigidly attached at the engine and the rigid constraint at the frame replaced with a spring in all 6 degrees of freedom. The resonant frequency dropped into the normal engine operating range and the amplitude increased to a level capable of loosening all but the most secure joint at the rigid attachment to the engine (i. e. the exhaust ring nut). Now the exhaust was free to rotate in the port this changed the resonant system once again and the amplitude increased further causing mayhem.
Well said.
That's why I attached the exhausts on my Commando to the engine cradle, so that they can vibrate as one unit.

Exhaust system replacement 1973 750 Commando
 
I said it a few times before, and will say it again:
Tighten the rose nuts with RUNNING engine.
Rev it at 4000 rpm while applying pressure on the wrench.
No need for rubber mallets or excessive force.
Let the vibrations work for you.
Try it, and see how easy the nut turns.

Ever wondered why your 'tight' nuts can vibrate loose in no time? :

I have always have had good results using this procedure since you posted it years ago.Not difficult and they stay tight.
Mike
 
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