- Joined
- Jul 8, 2011
- Messages
- 2,668
Follow through. You have come this far so check all the ring gaps. It is a trivial yet important task. Clymers manual calls for 0.010" to 0.012" gap for top ring and 0.008" to 0.012" gap for second ring. I would even check the oil control rail gaps.
Get an accurate measure of bore and skirt diameters to determine skirt clearance. If you are handy with feeler gauges you may be able to get an indication of clearance between the bore and skirt.
That one scuff mark is a bit of an enigma; hard to say from pictures alone whether it could have locked up the rear wheel. In the one close up picture it does look rather gnarly deep. Is there any hint of anything on the opposite side of the piston(s)? Regardless, the gouge should not be there. Not too concerned with the finish of the piston skirt surface, it will buff out in a few tens of thousands of miles.
While you are at it, anything obviously wrong with the feel of the connecting rods or crank rotation?
Get an accurate measure of bore and skirt diameters to determine skirt clearance. If you are handy with feeler gauges you may be able to get an indication of clearance between the bore and skirt.
That one scuff mark is a bit of an enigma; hard to say from pictures alone whether it could have locked up the rear wheel. In the one close up picture it does look rather gnarly deep. Is there any hint of anything on the opposite side of the piston(s)? Regardless, the gouge should not be there. Not too concerned with the finish of the piston skirt surface, it will buff out in a few tens of thousands of miles.
While you are at it, anything obviously wrong with the feel of the connecting rods or crank rotation?
