Engine rebuilder West Sussex

Hi

I have an original 1972 750 interstate with combat engine. 31,000 miles but now I suspect the bearings may be on their way out, judging by the extra noise coming in particular from the primary side.
Can anyone recommend a rebuilder in West Sussex? I can do most things myself but am not convinced I would get tolerances and seals right.
Alternatively if there are strong recommendations elsewhere in the uk I could send it off.

Thanks

Mark

It may be a rotor or even a loose crankshaft nut .. check first , if alas neither ,then try Norman White , he is not too far from you and has a web site

oldmikew said:

It may be a rotor or even a loose crankshaft nut .. check first , if, alas ,neither then try Norman White.

Click to expand...

Thanks Mike

Mark, if you are reasonably competent there isn’t much to changing main bearings, the Commando engine needs a bit of end float on the crank but it seems happy to operate within quite a large margin. If you are taking it apart yourself it’s not a bad idea to split the crank and clean the sludge trap out, but do mark the crank cheeks and flywheel so that you reassemble the correct way around otherwise you might put it out of balance - the flywheel can be reassembled wrongly if you don’t mark it and pay attention.

Definitely Norman White, incredibly knowledgeable and extremely helpful.

Mark, I build my own race engines and would be happy to help....but I moved from Worthing to Normandy! I will not be in the Worthing area until September, but am always happy to discuss Nortons.

When I first built my current engine I was having a primary drive made by Norman White. That needed the crank shaft and gearbox set up in the frame and properly located. (it also need a rod piston and barrel installed to set timing marks but I digress).

At that time my crank had not been installed, so Norman offered to fit the mains on the basis that he has the big puller required when removing the old races and setting the shimming. Mine was all new parts, so only fitting and shimming required. For the cost involved itwas just the easiest way forward.

I have all of the other tools but that one is quite expensive. Personally I am not as anal as some about the actual clearance, other than the minumum of 0.010" which I have observed in other builds.

If you have never been to see Norman you will enjoy the trip anyway and whatever you already know, you will learn something.

There is also the debate about inner race shimming, which Norman does and rarely causes a problem, or outer race shimming as described by Oldbritts and favoured by Comnoz. AN only supply inner race shims.

The best fit and forget crank seal is Steve Maney's

As to whether your mains are actually shot! Pulling them out will be the only way to confirm it. Failing Combat mains will have happened nearer 10k than 30k, so your mains may have only done 20k where they normally have a much longer life than that. Extra noise from the primary side could just be that! Primary and alternator related.