Engine and transmission knocking

Stu Bodycote said:
Tbf though you wont be pulling air into the brake system, just past the threads and straight back out again via the bleed hole.
Excuse crude image, its 1am.... I'm tired and really should be asleep, seeing as I'm up for work in 5hr 🥱
Click to expand...
My point. It’s wasted effort if the vacuum is being wasted around the threads and not through the bleeder hole. The best method of bleeding is reverse bleeding. Pushing fluid from the screw up to the reservoir. Air rises. Reverse bleeding forces air up. Right where it wants to go. Up.
 
Ah, ok, with you.
To be honest I never reverse bleed or vacuum bleed. I do it old school with just a bottle and tube. I've also got a high pressure bleeder, but very rarely use it. On these though, its usually just air trapped at the master cylinders. Crack off the bleed screw there and let it gravity bleed until no more air bubbles, then lock it off again.
 
Thanks lads will take advice and appreciate comments. Got another question if that's ok.
Can you get a certificate of conformity from Norton or does anyone have any idea of how to obtain one. The bike I got is unregistered and I know you have to fill in Forms V something but you have to supply supporting documents. I said I would keep it unregistered in early comments but I love looking at her so now want to ride it and register the bike.

Any advice would be appreciated

Steve
 
You'd have to get it msva'd anyhow due to age, so the certificate of conformity is useless. Norton who built it no longer exists.
 
bozman said:
Thanks lads will take advice and appreciate comments. Got another question if that's ok.
Can you get a certificate of conformity from Norton or does anyone have any idea of how to obtain one. The bike I got is unregistered and I know you have to fill in Forms V something but you have to supply supporting documents. I said I would keep it unregistered in early comments but I love looking at her so now want to ride it and register the bike.

Any advice would be appreciated

Steve
Click to expand...
Pull the lever back to the bar and hold in place with a tie wrap.Leave overnight and gradually crack of fittings starting at the master cylinder and working down keeping a watch on the fluid level.Trapped air can be a bugger to remove but the clutch line is just straight down.
 

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