Electric connectors and vibration

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Boyers and other electronic ignitions cab be somewhat sensitive to loose electrical connections as well as wonky kill switches. Also very worthwhile to ensure that your electrical circuit is properly earthed.

On an airhead, which is a lot more complicated electrically than a Norton, I really improved the charging system by making sure that all electrical connections were clean and bright and that there was a decent earth path back to the battery. Various silicone greases will keep corrosion at bay, try Maplins.
 
chasbmw said:
......On an airhead, which is a lot more complicated electrically than a Norton, I really improved the charging system by making sure that all electrical connections were clean and bright and that there was a decent earth path back to the battery. Various silicone greases will keep corrosion at bay, try Maplins.

Electricity follows the same laws no matter what bike it's operating on. It dosen't know the difference between a Norton or what you think is a "more complicated" BMW. Same standard of preparation applies to both - this is the Norton Commando section by the way.
 
Al-otment said:
chasbmw said:
......On an airhead, which is a lot more complicated electrically than a Norton, I really improved the charging system by making sure that all electrical connections were clean and bright and that there was a decent earth path back to the battery. Various silicone greases will keep corrosion at bay, try Maplins.

Electricity follows the same laws no matter what bike it's operating on. It dosen't know the difference between a Norton or what you think is a "more complicated" BMW. Same standard of preparation applies to both - this is the Norton Commando section by the way.


A BMW has many more connections to corrode and depending on which model has some quirks in the earth path. A new main wiring harness costs over £400......Nortons are dead simple in comparison. There is nothing wrong in making comparisons on a norton website of other 70s bikes or are we all very narrow minded?. One of the big advantages of BMWs was that they had reliable electrics providing enough current to run electic starters , bright headlamps and indicators. End of airhead content.
 
chasbmw said:
A BMW has many more connections to corrode and depending on which model has some quirks in the earth path. A new main wiring harness costs over £400......Nortons are dead simple in comparison. There is nothing wrong in making comparisons on a norton website of other 70s bikes or are we all very narrow minded?. One of the big advantages of BMWs was that they had reliable electrics providing enough current to run electic starters , bright headlamps and indicators. End of airhead content.

In your opinion. If you want to chat about BM's put it on the 'Other Classic Motorcycles' section.
 
Pretty stupid to get into a pissing contest when it involves the reliability of Lucas electrics or British bike oil integrity.
 
Would it be outside the focus of the forum if I recommended a good laxative for some of the members here? It would aid to my enjoyment of my Commando, whether it helped them with theirs!

You guys crack me up. I didn't know we were still doing the joke thread!

Russ
 
JimC said:
Pretty stupid to get into a pissing contest when it involves the reliability of Lucas electrics or British bike oil integrity.

Re-read my posts and you'll see I haven't mentioned Lucas reliability or oil leaks. Pretty stupid to mis-understand the context of a post.
 
Al-otment said:
JimC said:
Pretty stupid to get into a pissing contest when it involves the reliability of Lucas electrics or British bike oil integrity.

Re-read my posts and you'll see I haven't mentioned Lucas reliability or oil leaks. Pretty stupid to mis-understand the context of a post.


My, aren't we sensitive! I wasn't referring to anyone 's post. I simply made a general statement.
 
JimC said:
Al-otment said:
JimC said:
Pretty stupid to get into a pissing contest when it involves the reliability of Lucas electrics or British bike oil integrity.

Re-read my posts and you'll see I haven't mentioned Lucas reliability or oil leaks. Pretty stupid to mis-understand the context of a post.


My, aren't we sensitive! I wasn't referring to anyone 's post. I simply made a general statement.

No, an irrelevant statement and now an incorrect assumption.
 
rvich said:
Would it be outside the focus of the forum if I recommended a good laxative for some of the members here? It would aid to my enjoyment of my Commando, whether it helped them with theirs!

You guys crack me up. I didn't know we were still doing the joke thread!

Russ

HaHa, I think that would probably be a good idea
 
Cheesy said:
rvich said:
Would it be outside the focus of the forum if I recommended a good laxative for some of the members here? It would aid to my enjoyment of my Commando, whether it helped them with theirs!

You guys crack me up. I didn't know we were still doing the joke thread!

Russ

HaHa, I think that would probably be a good idea

HaHaHa, nice one Cheesy, HaHaHa. You guys crack me up, HaHaHa, HaHaHa. Seriously, could somebody explain rvich's 'joke' :? .
 
JimC said:
Al-otment said:
JimC said:
Pretty stupid to get into a pissing contest when it involves the reliability of Lucas electrics or British bike oil integrity.

Re-read my posts and you'll see I haven't mentioned Lucas reliability or oil leaks. Pretty stupid to mis-understand the context of a post.


My, aren't we sensitive! I wasn't referring to anyone 's post. I simply made a general statement.


+1 :roll: :roll: :roll:
 
The spark plug terminals were constantly vibrating off the plugs on my bike too. I now use NGK branded plug boots (not plugs) that are designed with a spring clip inside that are made to securely snap on the exposed threads of a plug without a terminal installed. You can most likely find others that are not branded.
 
You can get spark plugs with a screw terminal and with a fixed terminal, most makers seem to do both. You may need to be an accountant to tell you why there are two types.
You can get plug caps to suit either, but best not to mix types. The screw on type used with the cap designed for the fixed terminal does seem to permit a certain amount of vibration sensitivity to creep in.
I would not use screw type wiring connectors, the wire will work harden and tend to be cut by the screw. Removal and refitting is a pain. Especially "out there".
The "Lucar" type spade terminals, as used on brit bikes and cars are pretty good, although some are well past their design life now. There is (ought to be) a wee tit inside which should stop it falling apart, this wears causing frustration. A mild crimp can prolong its life, but not indefinitely. I fill mine with dielectric silicone grease (from a plasma cutter). Stops water ingress and seems to damp vibration. Probably goes towards gluing it together as well.
Modern replacements are likely not as good for some reason although there are excellent alternatives.
 
http://www.posi-lock.com/ are about the closest/best to the good ole streamlined Lucas bullets ya'll find. They suck visually and take up space but spread the loads of entry and don't bugger the loose wires as much as just twisting up or in a wire nut. Only place I could bring myself to use em was under ign. cover and in head light shell. Lucas females are aluminum and the male steel so corrosion weakens the Al as does repeated use. Females get used up so best to renew. Bullets can fight ya to insert and open so Lucas sold a tool but its jaws don't close parallel so aims male in a cocked angle and distorts its roundness. Fingers pulling and pushing on wires wears the wires out. Trimmed bent needle nose can slip in and grab the metal w/o loading the wire to bend. Here's couple insertion tools. I think I've talked myself back into bullets for a lot of Peels connections. I read British Wiring carries a better quality of females than Moss Motors. No feedback on cycle part vendors bullets.

Electric connectors and vibration


After working with various types of electrical connectors over the years I found that this variation of a commercial pin insertion tool works well with the male bullet connectors. Take a piece of brass tubing available from the local hobby shop or hardware store that is the same OD as the connector and file one half back for about 1" then insert the other end in a piece of wood dowel or a file handle. You can then lay the wire in the tool using the end to push the bullet connector into the female connector. It will easily push the connectors in fully. The problems I have experienced mostly with the female connectors is that they crack and loose tension, I think replacement is the best answer for those as there's really no good way to inspect them and see if there are any cracks. If you want a reliable connection, clean the male connectors and replace the female connectors.

I've had plug terminals unscrew pretty often even after pliers nip down but hardly ever skips a beat from that as so close the spark voltage just jumps no problem, its the coil inserting type terminals that fall out on me so now and then on the fly check and press em just in case and hope no burns or shocks.

On the blade thingies, don't know if china ones or not but some seem like galvanized coat or just cheap alloy that oxidizes/degrades and looses grip even after practiced tightening up to resist slip on some and remain stable on check rocking and tugging. I don't like the looks of bare blade connectors so mostly shrink over wire and metal but that can hinder and bind sharper bends like on the Lucas coils. We need some extra long flexable connectors to make up for the missing lengths each end recovery looses.
 
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