Dyna Coil Mount

swooshdave · May 22, 2010

hobot said:
Be CAUTIOUS of removing Any support to the tank mount plate
and adding loads on it, DAMhik. Check it close Now.
Without an under plate stiffener it will crack right off.
hobot

So far I'm leaning towards Paul's suggestion for an interim solution and then one day fabricating the cardboard one. One of my goals is to modify the stock parts as little as possible. Which means using as many stock holes as I can.

Hobot · May 22, 2010

I feel your infection progressing.
Part of Cdo fun is the repeated attack approaches on a narrow
focus > trying a few in various ways till just right for you.
You showed us yours, here's Peel's. Huh photo's appear fully from
Photobucket URL's but not so far Webshots URLs.

http://s184.photobucket.com/albums/x93/ ... g&newest=1

http://s184.photobucket.com/albums/x93/ ... g&newest=1

hobot- today is like my 1st Commando encounter, do I deal
on a used lawnmower, or the ready to fly Combat mechanic had.
Grass will fall over on its own about June, so>>

swooshdave · May 23, 2010

rvich said:
swooshdave said:

hobot said:

I'd like to get boots to cover the raw trigger terminals,
must be some Harley or air craft or marine, lawnmower item
to suit so On the hunt.

hobot

Click to expand...

I like that idea. Please share if you find something.

Click to expand...

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... &langId=-1

You would have to paint 'em to match unless the red worked into the scheme. You can also buy cans of liquid rubber stuff for dipping tool handles and make your own.

So, I remember looking for these for my alternator. I think NAPA might have something similar, but I haven't bothered them yet.

http://tinyurl.com/2fbqgp9

batrider · May 24, 2010

Also running Dyna type coil (Rev-Tech). You may want to goop under the coil tower boots with silicone. Mine would misfire in the rain or after carwash until I did. Had arcing all the way from the plug tower to the primary wire connection. I gooped that up too but that Corvette boot looks nicer if it is the right size.

Turned spark plug boots around exiting rearwards to help keep water out. Also that's the way they came from the factory. (Sorry little quirk of mine...)

Russ

swooshdave · May 24, 2010

batrider said:
Also running Dyna type coil (Rev-Tech). You may want to goop under the coil tower boots with silicone. Mine would misfire in the rain or after carwash until I did. Had arcing all the way from the plug tower to the primary wire connection. I gooped that up too but that Corvette boot looks nicer if it is the right size.

Turned spark plug boots around exiting rearwards to help keep water out. Also that's the way they came from the factory. (Sorry little quirk of mine...)

Russ

Pic?

Hobot · May 24, 2010

It a good idea on electrical symptoms to run bike in darkness
to watch for sparks and flashes. Even good to check prior
to symptoms, while jiggling and tugging and pushing on wires.

I'll take the advice to goop seal the coil boots, thanks Russ.

hobot

batrider · May 25, 2010

Found my problem by spraying a fine mist of water with a squirt bottle all over the coil area at night. After RTVing it survived the "drowning at Watkins Glen" at the Tioga PA Norton Rally a couple years ago.

batrider · May 30, 2010

Took some pix today. This is mounted on a '72 combat roadster. Nothing fancy - I just used some aluminum angle from the local hardware store. There are rubber biscuits (some rubber feet from work) on the screws holding the coil to the angle piece to provide some isolation from the vibes but probably not needed. I kept the original coil mount mainly to hold the reflectors and the stabilizing bolt for the steering damper mount. No extra holes and it is easily reversiible.

Silicone goop was a "field fix". A boot would be nicer.

Sorry - have to apologize for the mismatched mounting hardware cob job. I used what I had laying around at work.

Russ

swooshdave · May 30, 2010

Nice job. I'm thinking the same thing but I don't need the clearance for the steering damper so I should be able to tuck it up under the bracket a bit more. Clearances on the bolts might be close, but buttonheads might help.

swooshdave · Jun 6, 2010

I went to my cousin's to borrow his band saw again. I asked if he had any scrap metal. He pulls out this 1.25 wide stripe of aluminum. It was absolutely the right size to make my bracket.

I stuck it in the vise and heated it up a little and bent it.

Then I got ready to trim the ends. I'll pull a Ludwig and see if anyone see why my evening ended early... The hint is look at the saw.

Diablouph · Jun 7, 2010

No "Key" in the switch. Bet it was lost. Also, they are made of plastic, soft, easy to break the little prongs off, lose, etc. Anyway, you probably would have broken the blade anyway.

swooshdave · Jun 7, 2010

Diablouph said:
No "Key" in the switch. Bet it was lost. Also, they are made of plastic, soft, easy to break the little prongs off, lose, etc. Anyway, you probably would have broken the blade anyway.

I used the saw already for my headsteady and trimming my oil tank. The key was there the last time I borrowed the saw. He says he has an extra but it'll be faster if I just go buy some. I hear they are expensive for what they are. :evil:

swooshdave · Jun 7, 2010

I lucked out. I have a table saw and the safety key worked on the band saw. Since I took the day off from work I thought I'd go at it.

Yes, I don't have machinist blue and I used a Sharpie instead.

You have to cut VERY slow. But it's better that a hacksaw!

The Dyna holes weren't drilled even from side to side, nor from the centerline. It looks like there is a bit of play when they fuse the two halves together. They must have a jig and go at it.

I measured carefully and compensated.

Bolts are tiny bit long but they clear under the frame bracket. I did put an o-ring between the bracket and the coil to allow for a little vibration.

And the finished bracket. Very close to the cardboard one I made. Uses all existing holes. This one is very sturdy and only weighs a few ounces.. Much better than brackets that cantilever the coil out. I now have a few brackets to paint black one of these days.

pelican · Jun 7, 2010

nice and tidy

swooshdave · Jun 7, 2010

pelican said:
nice and tidy

Most importantly, cheap. For the cost of the bolts and that was it. :mrgreen:

pete.v · Jun 8, 2010

Tidy, yes. But not paticularly elegant. Maybe some scrolling with one of those vibratory engravers. Or maybe anodizing, A little rits dye of choice, some battery acid, and a batterycharger. Google it. Throw in that headsteady while your at it.

swooshdave · Jun 8, 2010

pvisseriii said:
Tidy, yes. But not paticularly elegant. Maybe some scrolling with one of those vibratory engravers. Or maybe anodizing, A little rits dye of choice, some acid, and a batterycharger. Google it. Throw in that headsteady while your at it.

Did I mention the black rattle can paint? :mrgreen:

Hobot · Jun 8, 2010

I judge your mount a tidy trim proper success.
Its already so dark under there I vote polish and clear paint.
Anodizing does not require anything but hot water or steam
and dye, even food colors. All the rest is just to speed
up process or fix dyes in better.
Trick to color anodize is make way darker than intended
as final layer formation tend to wash color out.
Also tricky to get color even applied.
But encourage you to try and let us know what ya learn.

Al oxide is same thing as sapphire and ruby, hardness 9 on
Mohs scale or about 40% of diamond which is 10.
I use a hot flame after a polish to melt surface a tad
smoother and further the oxide layer formation.

hobot

pete.v · Jun 8, 2010

hobot said:
I judge your mount a tidy trim proper success.
Its already so dark under there I vote polish and clear paint.
Anodizing does not require anything but hot water or steam
and dye, even food colors. All the rest is just to speed
up process or fix dyes in better.
Trick to color anodize is make way darker than intended
as final layer formation tend to wash color out.
Also tricky to get color even applied.
But encourage you to try and let us know what ya learn.

Al oxide is same thing as sapphire and ruby, hardness 9 on
Mohs scale or about 40% of diamond which is 10.
I use a hot flame after a polish to melt surface a tad
smoother and further the oxide layer formation.

hobot

Yes,Indubitably!

swooshdave · Aug 1, 2010

Not sure what hobot was talking about when there is good ol' fashioned rattle cans.

Dyna Coil Mount

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