Drum to Disc brake (2019)

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freefly103 said:
There is adequate clearance to use the original disc rotor with the Nissin caliper. About 1mm each side.
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Sweet! I got a good deal on evilbay on front & rear calipers from a z900 Kawa. Rear m/c wasn't such a great deal, but not bad for $200 total. Anybody need a front left caliper ? :)
 
Bernhard said:
In the UK we have a different set of race rules where earlier Manx’s are not allowed to have disc front brakes (Except the Arter Matchless that PW rode) the later period machines the rules are not so rigid so disc is OK.
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The British always do their nostalgia kick better. But sometimes you need to decide whether you want to re-create history, or actually race. A Manx Norton with a single disc brake is probably a travesty, but it would be safer In Australia our historic rules are created by guys who have certain types of bike, they would like to be more competitive. And big is always better. The mentality is you blow-off the opposition down the straights and it does not matter how you get around the corners. To my mind, the worst thing happens when 350cc Manx Nortons are run in races against more modern two strokes. The fellas cannot see that is idiocy. A few years ago I bought a fairly good TZ350G and sold it again. It would have had to have been raced against four cylinder superbikes. For the type of racing, the costs simply were not justified. It is all bullshit. I don't like racing two strokes, but if the class was there I would do it. The mixed classes are dangerous and a nonsense. My problem is that I can remember what the road racing was like in years gone by and modern historic racing is nothing like it.

If you have a close look at this video of road racing in Australia in 1980, you will see that amongst the two-strokes, there is only one superbike - which went nowhere.
 
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o0norton0o said:
I adapted a yamaha wheel to norton forks and combined the yamaha disc and the Lockheed caliper. I made an offset bracket for the caliper, I also ground a tiny bit off the caliper casting to move the pads where I wanted the contact to be on the disc. I use one of Don Pender's master cylinder with it which I think is a 13mm diameter master. It works good enough, but no doubt a multipot modern caliper would work better... Here's a picture below. That's the old brake hose, not the new braided one, but you can see what I've done here with caliper and disk. At the time I did it, I wasn't looking for more headaches by introducing even more non-stock parts, but in the long run I could have used a better caliper without much more cost.


View attachment 11270
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Hmmm, I didn't need any adapter to use the Norton/ Lockheed caliper on the 750/850 Yamaha discs with the Kimtab wheel. Allegedly the same as the the 70's Yamaha wheels the the discs came from. The fitment issues with the caliper was with the EBC floating rotors. The buttons interfere with the caliper and I'd rather have 4 pistons at work than just 2. XS1100 rotors were lager diameter, so I'm willing to fit an adapter to mount the caliper to utilize that rotor, since I'll need an adapter to use the Nissan calipers anyway.
 
acotrel said:
If you have a close look at this video of road racing in Australia in 1980, you will see that amongst the two-strokes, there is only one superbike - which went nowhere.
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Apart from the winner ;)

(Ron Boulden TZ750).
 
Minor update. Lower fender brace fitted.

Reading about pads and rotors, it seems that sintered pads don't like spun iron rotors. Found some carbon / ceramic pads from Brembo for about Eur30 delivered.

Next to the sintered pads, there is quite a lot of difference, not that the photo shows it, but the amount of metal in the sintered pads is obvious.

The instructions on the Brembo pads mentions that they must be run in for 100 miles before you get the full effect of the pad. I've ridden the bike about 20 miles, and while the feeling is not as precise as the sintered pads, they are still very good.
 

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I would not use a cast iron rotor for a front brake. One of my friends died because of that. The discs exploded off the front of his RG500 Suzuki at the end of Con-rod straight at Bathurst. He was climbing off the back of the bike as he passed another rider on his way into the spectator area. 'Only the good die young'.
 
So of the various combinations of disk calliper mastercylinder for a Commando , which is to go for?
 
850cmndo said:
Ooof. Like what I see.
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Someone might find the dimensions useful for a garage project. (It is for a stock diameter rotor)
I did give the fork mount pads a light surface in the mill since that side was being used instead of the usual inner (machined) side as per stock.

Caliper $9 + post + seals + pads.
Bracket $4 +
Titanium bolts and nuts $62.
I might use it with a 16 x 16 radial master cylinder. (It probably would have been fine with a stock bore OEM M/c but has been re sleeved)

You would be hard pressed (imho) to find a better caliper than the Brembo P4 30/34 including for the money.
 
Time Warp said:
Someone might find the dimensions useful for a garage project. (It is for a stock diameter rotor)
I did give the fork mount pads a light surface in the mill since that side was being used instead of the usual inner (machined) side as per stock.

Caliper $9 + post + seals + pads.
Bracket $4 +
Titanium bolts and nuts $62.
I might use it with a 16 x 16 radial master cylinder. (It probably would have been fine with a stock bore OEM M/c but has been re sleeved)

You would be hard pressed (imho) to find a better caliper than the Brembo P4 30/34 including for the money.
Click to expand...
Where did you source the bolts?
 
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