Double-sided Gearbox adjuster (big pics!)

This is very timely. I just drilled the left hand hole for the 2nd adjuster. It looks like I have to drill a second hole to put the adjuster on the forward side. Thanks for bringing this up.

BTW, if your cradle isn't powder coated yet, just weld up the first hole and drill another hole.

Greg

swooshdave said:

B+Bogus said:

Dave,

I fitted the RGM belt with the double-sided adjuster, and yes I put the Drive side trunnion block forwards.

However, I got mine all set up without the primary cases fitted, and once I was happy I locked everything up before I put the cases on.
I don't see why I'll ever need to touch the adjusters again, so is it such a big deal if you're getting a belt :?:

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Can I assume that once you set the gearbox with the primary off, that there's not too much trouble getting the belt on an off?

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hi dave,if you set the belt tension correct you should be able to slide the belt off both pulleys once the front pulley keeper plate is removed

gjr said:

This is very timely. I just drilled the left hand hole for the 2nd adjuster. It looks like I have to drill a second hole to put the adjuster on the forward side. Thanks for bringing this up.

BTW, if your cradle isn't powder coated yet, just weld up the first hole and drill another hole.

Greg

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It's powdercoated, but I'm still tempted to drill a hole anyways. And extra hole won't hurt, besides it will just make it *that* much closer to weighing as much as Ludwig's. :mrgreen:

swooshdave said:

Can I assume that once you set the gearbox with the primary off, that there's not too much trouble getting the belt on an off?

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Chris has already said it!
The belt isn't set that tight, and once the outboard flange is removed from the engine pulley it comes off with no problems.
Mine is now doing running-in miles and all seems good so far.

Good to see your bike progressing. too :wink:

Reggie said:

Looks like a good way to do it to me, but how do you make sure that the belt is running absolutely true and not tracking left or right. The reason I ask is that I had a belt which was tracking to one side and it eventually broke the side plate as well as wearing 3mm off the width of the belt.

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One issue that came up for me when setting up my Hayward/RGM belt was how much play there is the fit of the mounting bolts in the case, also the play of the bolt in the right side adjuster. It can make a difference in the tension and the alignment of the belt because no matter how much you tighten the mounting bolts, the trans is going to shift rearward in use till it takes up all the slack. The way I was told to set it up is to set the adjusters where you think they ought to be, tighten the mounting bolts fingertight, and then pull the case backward by pushing on the case itself to the rear. Then check for alignment and tension. I don't know about other belt kits, but Hayward's only has a guard on the left or outboard side of the drive pulley. I guess it might be because if the pulleys are set up parallel then some minute amount of flex of the mainshaft or play in the bearings in the trans is going to let the clutch pulley cant toward the right which will cause the belt to shift outward, if anywhere.

Dave, The next time my primary is off, I'm going to move my left side adjuster up to the front where it belongs. I might put a fancy button head bolt in the old hole for verisimilitudinous purposes.

I just remembered that I saw a trans case at Kenny Dreer's a long time ago that had the bolt holes sleeved down with bronze inserts.

B+Bogus said:

Good to see your bike progressing. too :wink:

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Did I mention that the primary case is empty? Still waiting for 3 parts orders to show up and then we'll get a but of traction. I'm getting the parts list down to only a few things but they are going to be the expensive ones (belt drive, wheels and tires) :shock:

Is this a belt-and-suspenders deal, a modification necessary for belt drive, something to manage higher-than-stock horsepower or ? I retained the hydraulic adjuster on the primary even after removing the electric start and crossover , but have considered going to a manual adjustment like earlier models.

Danno said:

Is this a belt-and-suspenders deal, a modification necessary for belt drive, something to manage higher-than-stock horsepower or ? I retained the hydraulic adjuster on the primary even after removing the electric start and crossover , but have considered going to a manual adjustment like earlier models.

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The concept is that with only a single positive locating device the gearbox can shift and cause the belt or chain to be at an angle. Compounding this is that the stock adjuster is on the opposite side from where the majority of the forces are acting upon the gearbox (mainly the drive chain). With the MkIII the gearbox is already positively located. As long as the hydraulic adjuster is working I would not worry about it.

I scribed an arc from the low pivot to determine the location of the front hole. Just feel better that if I have to get to the adjusters now I can. One of those things that now that I moved it I'll never have to use it. :mrgreen: