does tyre rotation matter?

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maylar

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I screwed up (again).. I told the mechanic who mounted my new Avon AM26 rear tire the wrong direction of rotation. Considering that it's not a tubeless tyre and that there's a rim lock on it, do I have to worry?

Thanks
 
hi maylar,to be on the safe side i would say yes it does matter otherwise avon would,nt specify a tyre rotation,{usually marked with a direction arrow on the sidewall} the rear tyer has to cope with acceleration loads while the front has to cope with braking loads
 
+1
if you notice, unlike tires of old, the grooves/ contact pattern is completely different depending upon the tires rotation - important stuff for dry conditions, even more for wet---

spend the extra $20 and put 'it on right
 
No way it can function optimally mounted backwards. But the difference might not be much, especially in the dry. Wet may be another matter as the sipes are laid out to get the H2O out from under efficiently.
 
From Avon:

"When a tire is manufactured the tread portion of the tire starts out as a long flat strip. This strip is wrapped around the tire and the two ends are cut on an angle so one end overlaps the other rather than having square cut ends.

This overlapping point or splice offers a bigger surface area to bond together, rather than the small surface area provided by square cut ends. (Imagine gluing your fingertips together, as opposed to gluing along the entire length of your fingers laid on top of each other. Like an angled splice, the overlapping fingers result in a much stronger bond).

To further ensure the strength of this bond along the tread splice the directional arrow will show you which way to mount the tire so that when the rider is “on the gas”; the acceleration force on the rear tire is pressing the splice together, rather than peeling it back.

As for braking, 80 % of the braking should take place in the front on most bikes. Therefore, the front tread splice is run in the opposite direction than that of the rear, so when the rider is on the brakes, he’s not peeling the tread splice back.

If you are using a tire that has a directional arrow for rear rotation only and for some reason you want to put it on the front, make sure it is rotating in the opposite direction so you don’t aggravate the tread splice. "
 
Dave, if ya don't want to be thought a dumb bunny like me pay the price to flip the tire.
But if your a seasoned dumb bunny like me, mixing and matching an ain't applying hi power all the time then its about a non issue. What can happen if tire is hot and you racing around is the ply weave opens like Chinese hand cuffs and tire can distort with a bulge that makes it wear faster and out of balance feeling rougher ride.
If tire happens to develop a leak it will tend to de rim easier but rim lock prevents that and tubeless very rarely blow out, just ease on down, plenty of warning, if you've had em before or did the low air practice I preach.

A rear tire can safely be fit on front - if the rotation arrow reversed to better take the brake loads instead of accelerating rear loads. Visa versa too.
 
Personally, I think it's important that tyres rotate. Otherwise, how would we get anywhere?
 
Wow, some of you pay someone to mount tubed tires?

Around here most shops won't touch a tube tire. If the go-fer kid can't zip it off on their automatic machine, they aren't interested.
 
I've only attempted a tire change once in the 40 years that I've been riding and it was a disaster. Pinched tube, scratched rim and a lot of swearing.

The local shop offers free mounting when you buy the tire from them. Took the guy 10 minutes the first time, and 10 minutes to reverse it today at no charge.
 
maylar said:
I've only attempted a tire change once in the 40 years that I've been riding and it was a disaster. Pinched tube, scratched rim and a lot of swearing.

Unfortunately a disaster through lack of experience.

Unlike you, I've never had shop change a tyre in 37 years, either tubed or tubeless. And I tend to buy my tyres mail order anyway because it's usually a fair bit cheaper even with the delivery charge. If the correct technique is used then changing a tyre is a relatively easy task, which can be accomplished with reasonably little effort, the most strenuous part is usually pumping it up with a footpump (especially getting tubeless tyres to seal on the rims using a footpump!) for those who don't have the luxury of an air compressor-which I didn't have myself until recently .
 
Humpf, hardest part of an old tire change is too often just breaking the bead.
I use big clamps at home but out and about takes some athletics and ingenuity.
A side stand placed on tire with pilot and bike's masses sometimes works when stomping and swearing lead to ground stomping and swearing.

hobot
 
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