Unusual to mee to see such nice mating from cases not mated at the factory. You have been very fortunate.Trying to do one thing, even if it's small, each day. I removed the dowels because both sides had them and I was able to punch out the ones with access from the back. Removed the cylinder barrel studs easily and took a look at all the threads, which look fine. I think this is a winner, ready to push onward. Pleased to make an eBay purchase that was exactly as described and even pretty clean. I met a guy at a local show who has a P11 and says he has some parts that I could use, fork legs and rear rim especially, will see.
Dissasembling first Norton (N15CS), 16 y/o son is intrigued....
- Thread starter gpzkat
- Start date
Have you applied some heat to the hub? Heat to 120 deg C / 248 deg F for 30 minutes. Hub is probably corroded. If this doesn't help, there is a method of splitting bearings.
-Knut
Post-54 all Matchless full width hubs have centralised spokes. That includes the post'64 models with Norton hubs as well, so no offset. This has been a recurring topic here, easy to find.
-Knut
Cycle parts off a P11 won't fit your G/N15. Forks were different (Teledraulic vs. Norton Roadholder - Teledraulic are better off-road w/two way dampening, early N15s had similar set-up); Rear wheel is different (P11 had a straight-spoke Matchless hub, G/N15 had a Norton hub - again, the Matchless parts are superior for off-road riding). Except for the drivetrain, handlebar, clocks and petrol tank are the only identical parts between the two models.
-Knut
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2020
- Messages
- 508
Boy I sure screwed up the telling of that - he has a couple Nortons including a P11, he has a Commando fastback too. He had a Commando TLS wheel and also a disc off '73 complete. I took the latter.
The rear bearings aren't budging, but since I have another nice drum that's already bare, I'll go with that. I have some tennis elbow going on and need to reduce stresses.
The Commando front I just got has a stuck bearing retainer. I read up that it is right hand thread like the rear retainer I took off earlier to get to the stuck bearing fun. I thought I felt it move clockwise just a bit on my first try, but since then it's not budged. It made me question whether it really is right hand thread, given it felt like I just locked it into place firmly! I should have used a marker on the edge so I could tell if it really did move. My pin spreader is useless, it just bends and/or shreds the soft retainer. For the front disc cover plate I made a tool from drills which fit snugly, but still was only 2 contacts. For this front retainer two won't do. I need to drill fresh holes and make a 4 pin tool, pretty easy as I've got something similar I can mod. I expect/fear this thing may need surgery to extract, I leaned on it with a lot of leverage and Pffft, nothing.
I always use penetrating oil and heat, sometimes many cycles if stubborn. Then I drop an ice cube on the center sometimes, or some other way to contrast the heat on the appropriate part.
The rear bearings aren't budging, but since I have another nice drum that's already bare, I'll go with that. I have some tennis elbow going on and need to reduce stresses.
The Commando front I just got has a stuck bearing retainer. I read up that it is right hand thread like the rear retainer I took off earlier to get to the stuck bearing fun. I thought I felt it move clockwise just a bit on my first try, but since then it's not budged. It made me question whether it really is right hand thread, given it felt like I just locked it into place firmly! I should have used a marker on the edge so I could tell if it really did move. My pin spreader is useless, it just bends and/or shreds the soft retainer. For the front disc cover plate I made a tool from drills which fit snugly, but still was only 2 contacts. For this front retainer two won't do. I need to drill fresh holes and make a 4 pin tool, pretty easy as I've got something similar I can mod. I expect/fear this thing may need surgery to extract, I leaned on it with a lot of leverage and Pffft, nothing.
I always use penetrating oil and heat, sometimes many cycles if stubborn. Then I drop an ice cube on the center sometimes, or some other way to contrast the heat on the appropriate part.
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