Digging deeper into the gearbox

MichaelB said:
This has probably been discussed but manuel calls for 70 ft. lbs on the main shaft.
Fred calls for 40 ft. lbs. with 'Blue' loctite.
I usually defer to factory specs.
Which is better?
I don't have Mick's CD, what does he recommend?
Click to expand...
No 70ft lbs is way too high
Ignore the manual
 
seattle##gs said:
It is a veteran
Click to expand...
www.accessnorton.com

Some Andover Norton transmission parts quality escapes (2015)

I had the opportunity to repair my failed transmission (still working, but 2nd had a funny "thump, thump, thump" noise. Disassembly revealed a LOT of damage.... I set to work inspecting (the case, sleeve gear and first gear lay were the only usable moving parts) and ordering parts. When I...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com

Right there, on page 1, is the story about the sleeve gear bearing causing binding (exactly like you described).
A QUICK, SIMPLE test can rule it OUT, or provide cause to look deeper.
 
Yipe!! more variables and almost impossible to detect unless you're looking for it. An important step to take EVERYTIME when building a transmission now.

Next question ...the layshaft roller bearing is a bit proud of the case...does anyone know how much?
 
Mart UK said:
I worked off the manual, so a tab washer.
Click to expand...
With 70ft lbs you will probably find the mild steel tab washer squashed and the nut loose
Then the clutch hub will become loose on the main shaft and wear out the splines
I hope non of this has happened
But it does often happen
 
Hey guys, i was referring to the mainshaft nut behind the clutch lifter on the inner cover.

Edit. Found a torque table on the AN site.
Clutch to mainshaft. 50 lbs.
Mainshaft 40/50 lbs.

Looked it up in Norman White's book. Seems he overlooked it. At least I couldn't find it.
 
Last edited:
I dug even deeper. The big bearing on the drive side is loose. The garage is about 55 degrees and the bearing freely drifts back and forth. I emptied the GB and fit just the mainshaft. It turned freely until I bolted down the inner cover and it really bound up. I removed the drive chain and the shaft freed up. The rear wheel is slightly out of alignment. Now if I push on the sprocket - cocking it in the bore - the shaft will bind up. The cure is to repair the bearing hole. I can do it the expensive and correct way $260 or use an epoxy of some sort.
Any one have a spare box for sale?
 
3rd way is to get the OD of the bearing copper plated to restore fit into the enlarged bearing housing. Copper is best as if its over plated you can use emery cloth to remove some of the thickness. Maintenance fitters at the factory I worked at used it all the time, we had a plating shop and some of the machines were pre WW2. Some discs and sealing on the bearing sides keep the plating fluid out of the important bits.
 
If you have that kind of slop in that bearing I’d say it’s highly likely the case is cracked between the two bearings.
 
Loctite 641? 648?

LOCTITE 641

Retaining Compound - medium strength. If disassembly is required. Ideal for parts that need subsequent dismantling.
www.henkel-adhesives.com www.henkel-adhesives.com

LOCTITE 648

LOCTITE 648 is a low viscosity, high strength retaining compound typically used for holding gears and sprockets onto gearbox shafts and rotors on electric motor shafts.
www.henkel-adhesives.com www.henkel-adhesives.com
 
seattle##gs said:
I dug even deeper. The big bearing on the drive side is loose. The garage is about 55 degrees and the bearing freely drifts back and forth. I emptied the GB and fit just the mainshaft. It turned freely until I bolted down the inner cover and it really bound up. I removed the drive chain and the shaft freed up. The rear wheel is slightly out of alignment. Now if I push on the sprocket - cocking it in the bore - the shaft will bind up. The cure is to repair the bearing hole. I can do it the expensive and correct way $260 or use an epoxy of some sort.
Any one have a spare box for sale?
Click to expand...
Did you check runout on the sleeve gear while you had it like that? 30 second test. 💡🔦🔬
 
UPDATE...pulled the GB out of the frame and installed new bushings on the camplate and quadrant. Had to lap them in using TIMESAVER LAPPING COMPOUND...very good stuff made for lapping babbit bearings....look it up. Installed a new shifter rod even though the original looked good on glass. I noticed that the layshaft shifter fork was dragging a bit on the camplate so I ground off a smidgen. Now it has .020 clearance and slides only on the shaft. TEST RIDE.....It drops cleanly into first...no more rattling. It did it over and over.
My second problem was that it required an unusual amount of foot pressure to go up and down the gears. I cut a 1/8" spacer for the detent plunger body which helped but it shouldn't need a spacer at all. It could be somewhere in the outer cover shifting mechanism though not apparent at all.
 
Torontonian said:
How to get the hairspring gap correct top and bottom? My new spring touches with no gap.
Click to expand...

"Even new factory springs must be checked. It is very easy to fix a spring with the incorrect bend. Just take a pair of pliers and straighten out the legs slightly. Straighten them out a small bit at a time and keep checking until you achieve the correct fitment."
 
L.A.B. said:
"Even new factory springs must be checked. It is very easy to fix a spring with the incorrect bend. Just take a pair of pliers and straighten out the legs slightly. Straighten them out a small bit at a time and keep checking until you achieve the correct fitment."
Click to expand...
Yes that's what I needed to hear . Thanks . The original snapped off an arm when I tried that but then noticed wear at the coiled end where the break occured .
I have a date with 2 lovely local girls in an hour to go crabbin' in de local ditch . Den later I go git de night snappers wit de high tidy mon .
 

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