Decent trade for Purple Combat

grandpaul · Jul 21, 2016

Head is inverted, so right cylinder is on the left. THIS is where the problem was.

Right cylinder is badly stuck, left side not too bad (that's WD-40 in there).

The head will clean up real easily.

Right cylinder is basically trash.

grandpaul · Jul 21, 2016

Cam lobes look fair, no severe wear, just the typical uneven factory finish.

These lobes are in good shape. Cam followers aren't flat spotted at all, so that's a big plus.

Right piston was well and truly stuck. Also evidence of severe blow-by.

Left piston is not bad at all, it was on the compression stroke with both valves closed, so no moisture ingress damage. Still has severe blow-by damage.

These are NOT the dreaded "pop top" sliced pistons, thankfully.

grandpaul · Jul 21, 2016

Transmission is uncharacteristically clean, no milky mess, very little rust. That's big.

There were no cush rubbers in the rear hub. Clack, clack, clunk!

Rear fender & wheel removed (temporarily on the wheel)

grandpaul · Jul 21, 2016

Stripped off the wiring harness, oil filter, cooler & hoses.

All levers, cables, and front brake removed.

Clutch was pretty heavily contaminated with thick tranny lube.

grandpaul · Jul 21, 2016

Nice surprise - ShurFlex lightweight composite clutch friction plate$!

It's always nice to see the inside plate still securely pinned in place.

"Flip Side"

grandpaul · Jul 21, 2016

Primary didn't put up too much of a fight, I did have to employ the puller to get the engine sprocket free.

That's as far as it's going, bare rolling chassis to be scrubbed and touchup painted with gloss black Rust-O-Leum rattle cans.

End of another long day...

grandpaul · Jul 22, 2016

Hmmmmmmm....

Maybe I can get a bit better price for the bike if I "dress it up"...

Bob Z. · Jul 22, 2016

That's a lot of work in a short time.
What do you use to keep the gearbox cradle in place like that when the engine is out?

grandpaul · Jul 22, 2016

Bob Z. said:
What do you use to keep the gearbox cradle in place like that when the engine is out?

It's sitting on the bike jack still. After that, I use a piece of coathangar wire between one of the cradle bolt holes and a front mount hole.

grandpaul · Aug 1, 2016

Scruffy, empty rolling chassis

Clean and touchup-painted rolling chassis

grandpaul · Aug 1, 2016

Scroungy bottom end before clean-up

Clean bottom end (heavily flushed inside as well)

Tranny before clean-up

Clean tranny (flushed inside as well)

Filthy inner primary case half

Inner primary cleaned up, not yet detailed.

Kinda rare situation, chaincase is completely intact, no cracks at the 3 crankcase bolt holes or center boss, and the chain fling lip is completely intact.

grandpaul · Aug 1, 2016

Tranny back in it's cradle, re-assembly has begun.

Lower end bolted in with original isolastics (in fair shape)

grandpaul · Aug 2, 2016

Sprocket is SLIGHTLY hooked, but not terrible.

New primary inner case gasket in place, ready to assemble primary system.

Nice clean clutch plates; friction plates are $ureflex, steel plates are cleaned and lightly scuffed, pressure plate cleaned.

grandpaul · Aug 2, 2016

Step 1 in proper assembly of primary is to gently snug the 3 inner bolts in place first...

Step 2: measure gap between case backside and the shoulder of the stand-off stud.

Step 3: Locate proper washers. One thick washer, one thin; just right.

Step 4: Remove 3 inner bolts, slip in the proper washers, then tighten everything in place properly. Done.

grandpaul · Aug 2, 2016

Primary system all shimmed in place, clutch plates & diaphragm spring installed, alternator cleaned & installed. Ready to nip it all up.

I found 2 of the 3 inspection caps, and a proper sleeve nut for the center stud. Just need the 3rd cap & main cover o-ring.

Tires are shot, as seen in this close-up (although they are still holding air). New filter has been knocking around my shelves for over a year, finally got a place to put it.

Here and there, I always end up using my serviceable spares from lot purchases over the years. Almost like it's free. So far, well over a couple hundred dollars of old dusty parts that are now cleaned up and soon to be back on the road.

grandpaul · Aug 2, 2016

Battery tray all cleaned up and spray painted.

Horn was HEAVILY caked with dirt and grime; cleaned up and painted. Mud dauber nest removed from inside, too...

Oil tank solvent washed, then pressure washed, then spray painted.

Man, this 100-plus-degree heat is beating me up. Even with my 36" Port-A-Cool parked 4' from my work are, and a 24" Shop Cool fan posted at my parts wash sink, I've been drenched in sweat for almost 6 hours. I tend to lose between 10 and 15 pounds every summer.

grandpaul · Aug 3, 2016

Oil tank installed, tore the only half-decent rubber isolator I had, so I made up an isolator from a long bolt and short section of rubber hose. Forget the runny paint, it's not a restoration.

Oil line connections all done. Also plugged off the "factory oil leak" with a short section of hose & a thick allen screw with RTV silicone.

grandpaul · Aug 3, 2016

Battery tray installed, as well as hidden horn (what a pain in the butt)

Rear fender was caked with crud.

Rear fender spiffed up and installed.

grandpaul · Aug 3, 2016

Tail light all cleaned up, back plates painted, and installed. Painted the yokes and cleaned up the forks, will re-install them tomorrow.

Sourced a serviceable set of cylinders, they are on the way to arrive in 2 days. Should be going back together with the top end by the weekend.

grandpaul · Aug 3, 2016

Forks flushed, cleaned & filled w/ 5oz 10W30 each, yokes painted, headlight ears polished up, meters & cups cleaned up, and all of that installed.

Brake disc wire wheeled and the center painted, fender polished and stays painted, those items installed. Note the imperfect factory grinding, typical.

Looking more like a bike, and it's back to a roller.

Managed over 6 hours today with 2 breaks, I think we hit 105F...