Dave Taylor Headsteady

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Dave, I don't know for certain but I suspect that the clamp is used because it provides a degree of adjustment to take up the erm...dimensional inexactitudes of Commando frames. Depending on state of iso rubbers and final position of the motor, there is a danger of the assembly sitting under tension.

I'm also not sure that the original fixing points are in the ideal place as the plate on the head then needs to be larger and less rigid than otherwise.

In practice, the clamp does not seem to be a weak point. The clamp does not seem to have any tendency to loosen.

Coco, I suspect that if you have an imperial dimensioned frame tube then the wretched powder coat is the problem. Does the clamp measure 1" ID ? What is your frame tube OD ?
 
I've read forum postings that say the cross bar diameter is slightly different between frames depending on where it was made (England vs Italy, I believe).
 
79x100 said:
Dave, I don't know for certain but I suspect that the clamp is used because it provides a degree of adjustment to take up the erm...dimensional inexactitudes of Commando frames. Depending on state of iso rubbers and final position of the motor, there is a danger of the assembly sitting under tension.

I'm also not sure that the original fixing points are in the ideal place as the plate on the head then needs to be larger and less rigid than otherwise.

In practice, the clamp does not seem to be a weak point. The clamp does not seem to have any tendency to loosen.

Coco, I suspect that if you have an imperial dimensioned frame tube then the wretched powder coat is the problem. Does the clamp measure 1" ID ? What is your frame tube OD ?
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Clamp ID is 1". Tube OD with powder coat is (if I remember correctly) around 1.038". I suspect it is the powder coat causing the problem but half of the clamp does not even come close to fitting around the tube. The corners of half of the Taylor clamp just rest on the tube and don't even come close to wrapping around. One would think that even with powder coat, the clamp halves should at least if not almost wrap around.

I'll measure the OD again when I get home from work and write the measurement down.
 
For those having trouble with the DT Head Steady, Toss it. Replace it with this one - http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2986651 ... 6412bJyCnf
It resolves all the shortcomings and retains the simplicity of the concept. For those still using the isolastic head steady - Toss it. This is the best head steady available. But, if you are not in search of superior handling for your Commando, you need not bother - just keep the OEM rubber donuts, and enjoy that OEM bouncy, hingey, wandering handling!

Advantages of the TT Commando Head Steady -
1) Fits all OEM frame (tube) sizes
2) Fits under all OEM tanks and frame combinations
3) Clamp will not slip
4) Clamp will not conflict with junction of main tube and support tube junction
5) Superior quality heim joints and fasteners provided
6) All fasteners are Imperial, not metric
7) Adjustable for precise alignment after installation.
8) On-line installation advise and assistance available.
 
swooshdave said:
Not the first sales pitch I've seen for this item recently. :roll:
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Glad you've noticed. I have no desire to keep a good thing to myself, and every hope to distribute it to those who understand what it is. The difference it makes on the bike is what counts, isn't it?
 
Just note that not all forums appreciate sales pitches. It's best to ask the moderator or owner first. Internet etiquette and all. I don't know Jerry's policy.
 
swooshdave said:
Just note that not all forums appreciate sales pitches. It's best to ask the moderator or owner first. Internet etiquette and all. I don't know Jerry's policy.
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Fair enough. Just note that there are several purveyors on this and other threads. I'm a "hobbyist", not a merchant. Truth is, there is economy in numbers, hence when I make something, there are multiples involved - these can be shared. Offering these, I don't believe, is the same as corporate marketing. In any event, my interest is to share information and benefits among the Norton community, of which I've been a member for somewhat over thirty years. If that's not welcomed here, then I will continue my pursuits elsewhere. Thanks for the feedback.
 
Come on guys!!!

Don't do what I did with someone on this forum a couple years ago and get so involved in proving who was right that the end result was the fellow got so huffed he never came back again. Smart and knowledgeable fellow that knew all sorts of stuff and now no one here has the benefit of hearing his opinions. We all have a bunch of knowledge to share with each other and if every one that disagrees , does it in such a way that the other takes it too personal and just never comes back, the forum will soon be empty. Chill out !!! Kiss and make up :wink: ...we need EVERYONE here!

And I took a look at this item mentioned, and it's trick. Bit pricey...but better than anything I've seen before. So...

Might be that advertisement isn't generally the accepted norm here...but I'm glad to have this brought to my attention. I will save my pennies. With a few less dollars spent at Mac Donalds, I might get a super replacement for that Norvil thing I've been gripeing about, and if the builder can make a few bucks, that's OK with me too.

Hewho...
 
One informational post is ok in my eyes, multiple posts on multiple boards (this is posted on BritBike too) is commercial and the board deserves payment for advertising.
 
I'm sure nuff been said and he has gotten the drift by now...but informing the community of his neat idea wasn't all bad. Now we know. Let's get off the man's back about his Faux Pas and discuss if his idea is a good one. I'm of the mind it is...who's with me?

Hewho...
 
I think the forums are a good place to announce a new product, I wouldn't have seen this one otherwise. It also gives us the unique opportunity to question the designer.

The ability to align the wheels by tweaking vertical alignment of the drive assembly is interesting. I'm curious what mechanism one would use to do that.
 
hewhoistoolazytologin said:
Come on guys!!!

Don't do what I did with someone on this forum a couple years ago and get so involved in proving who was right that the end result was the fellow got so huffed he never came back again.
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Or start ranting endlessly for years about belt drives...
 
maylar said:
I think the forums are a good place to announce a new product, I wouldn't have seen this one otherwise. It also gives us the unique opportunity to question the designer.

The ability to align the wheels by tweaking vertical alignment of the drive assembly is interesting. I'm curious what mechanism one would use to do that.
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I very much appreciate your comment and those of others who see the value in sharing experiences, knowledge, and resources.

It seems I've picked up on two threads related to this same subject. Rather than repeat my other post, please see the other thread titled, "Norvil Head steady...worn out...fix?" I look forward to discussing this topic with everybody.

Thanks,
Mark
 
As if torn from today's headlines, I just received my taylor head steady from Colin (at a VERY low price, as I was first to reply on bb.com)

While it does involve some fiddling to get it dialed in, for me that's half the fun. Maybe an hour instead of 10 minutes, but then it's good to go.

So, different horses for different courses; I'm cheap and I got lucky on a heckuva deal. If I were a more refined rider, or racing, and had the appropriate budget, I'd like to have the in-place adjustability; for now, this will do.
 
grandpaul said:
... for now, this will do.
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Like you said. Just understand that "dialing in" as you say, is simply a bolt on procedure in that case. There is no "dialing in" without adjusting the vertical alignment. Kinda like not caring if your wheel is properly aligned after tightening the drive chain, or not aligning your car suspension.
 
There is some adjustability with the taylor unit by shimming it, unlocking the heim joint assembly and adjusting it's length, and re-orienting the frame clamp slightly. With those three means, an acceptable alignment can be obtained.

Again, this isn't for all-out racing, and my butt is nowhere near that fine-tuned.
 
On a mailing list there was a discussion on wheel alignment and one race bike builder commented that he sent out his rider with the wheels grossly misaligned and his rider reported the handling as being excellent :!: What does this say about a micro alignment of the head steady :?: Sometimes good enough is just that, good enough.

That being said, I would build one like Keith's and probably copy Jim's idea (My concience chiming in: again stealing someone else's ideas, don't you ever learn to shut up :roll: ) for the lower isolastic (which BTW is the way HD does it)

Jean
 
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