Crankcase Sealer

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Has anyone used Loctite 518 on the crankcase halves. 38 years of Yamabond, 10 with 518, I like them both. 518 sealed my gasketless 850 barrell to cases splendidly, no leaks, 32,000 miles. I haven't yet used it on crank case splits. Anyone?
 
I have been using 515/518 for the last 10 years on all engines including crankcase halve joints and it works fine, any bead from excess application stays a liquid and dissolves in oil so no danger of a solid bead breaking off and then blocking an oilway, plus it seals well.
 
kommando said:
I have been using 515/518 for the last 10 years on all engines including crankcase halve joints and it works fine, any bead from excess application stays a liquid and dissolves in oil so no danger of a solid bead breaking off and then blocking an oilway, plus it seals well.
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Does 518 need an activator?

Anaerobic Activator 7649
Crankcase Sealer

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Klean-n-Pr...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
 
any bead from excess application stays a liquid and dissolves in oil so no danger of a solid bead breaking off and then blocking an oilway,-Kommando

If it is oil soluble, what keeps it from melting out of the joint?
 
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I have never used an activator when using 515/518, I use it on aluminium to aluminium, aluminium to steel and steel to steel.

From the Loctite FAG's

Q13: Can I substitute LOCTITE 518 Gasket Eliminator for LOCTITE 515 Gasket Maker?
A: These are both anaerobic flange sealants designed for rigid machined flanges. They are similar products with one of the key differences being that LOCTITE 518 is a better product for use on aluminium flanges. Thus, LOCTITE 518 probably can replace LOCTITE 515 for most applications. However, LOCTITE 518 is generally a faster setting anaerobic and it may tend to cure too quickly on very active metals like brass. In this instance, LOCTITE 515 may be a better choice.

I just buy which ever is cheaper when my current tube starts to go low.
 
I have used Permatex motoseal for years; I do not use silicone sealants at all unless I'm working on my bathtub or want the parts to be glued together (no, I never want that!) ;) Silicone is a tool of the devil and whenever I see an engine with the typical squeezout of most silicone applications, I run! The same squeezout that came outside also went inside and can clog oil and other small passages. I have disassembled engines that had destroyed bearings because the person doing the previous work used silicone and the squeeze-out ended up blocking an oil passage.

OK, to be fair, silicone sealer works OK and it's typically the misuse that causes the problem. But, again, I don't like the parts being glued together and, IMO, Permatex motoseal does a better job all-around anyway and is easier, less messy to use and can easily be disassembled if/when necessary.
 
marshg246 said:
I've always used Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket #3 for my crankcase halves but I see people here recommending Yamabond, HondaBond, Welseal, and Hylomar.snipped.
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It kills me that Permatex calls this product "Aviation", as it is not approved by the FAA for use as a sealant on ANY aircraft device! :eek: Plus, it is a real PITA to clean off, after it has set.
Charlie
 
chaztuna said:
It kills me that Permatex calls this product "Aviation", as it is not approved by the FAA for use as a sealant on ANY aircraft device! :eek: Plus, it is a real PITA to clean off, after it has set.
Charlie
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Products that conform to MIL standards do not need FAA approval! It does conform to a MIL standard from 1984 which is no longer applicable for new products so I suppose it is a stretch but legally correct. I couldn't care less - I've never used anything else on Triumph cases. I bought a new bottle last year that is exactly like my first bottle.

One of the things I like is how easy it is to clean up when wet and many years later when you rebuild the engine! Denatured alcohol is all it takes. Also, it never sets. Form-A-Gasket #1 does, but #2 and #3 (Aviation) do not. #2 seems to just be a thick version of #3 (paste verses liquid).
 
Danno said:
Permatex also makes Moto-Seal, a motorcycle specific product that is similar to Yamabond, Hondabond etc.
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Everyone seems to have their favorite goo. I've used Loctite 574 on air cooled Porsche crankcases for years. Both 4 and 6 cyl engines. I've used it on various motorcycle projects, even keeps oil in Harleys.
 
even keeps oil in Harleys.-J5

Thought the only way to keep a Harley from leaking oil was to not put any in.:D
 
Hylomar for me. Use it on every build and never had a case leak, that's on Britt bikes and Harley's.
JUG
 
jug said:
Hylomar for me. Use it on every build and never had a case leak, that's on Britt bikes and Harley's.
JUG
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Quite a few have recommended Hylomar, but Hylomar is a company with many products. Which one do you use?
 
Many proven goops testified too above to get the job done, but like oil always more to learn.

Rolls Royce sold its Hylomar sealant name off many decades ago. Last couple decade Permatex had the name but lost track this decade as there are a number of sources now and at least a dozen urethane based versions. Last tube I got cost over $50 to have mailed.

https://www.google.com/search?q=hylomar+for+sale&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1

See blog below on on selecting silicon. Colors don't mean much, but blue acetic acide gasket maker tends to stay softer less adhesive than black. Last real use I had was on chevy 8 bolt diff. cover that dripped with regular blue RTV, Hylomar Racer's Blue and black RTV, so got a gasket + black RTV smear to seal. I now have auto parts store Permatex Ultra Blue Advanced Formula gasket maker that is essentially orderless toothpaste, not gel, to replace Hylomar tube getting low & the grope monster hid it again.
https://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/81725.pdf

>>>
It depends on what "blue" adhesive you are looking at. Permatex/Loctite/Henkel all make Oxime cure and Acetoxy cure versions of blue RTV. You do not want to ever, ever, ever use an "Acetoxy" cure silicone on an automotive application. The reason is simple, as it cure the Acetoxy cure system releases acetic acid which is highly corrosive. Picture this; your sle kit has just been installed and the t-case has been resealed with acetoxy cure silicone and as it cures it filles the inside of the t-case with micro-bubbles of acetic acid......can you say corrosion??

The easiest way to ID an acetoxy cure silicone is by smell. You will notice a very strong odor of vinegar that will burn your nose/eyes. If you have that type of blue silicone throw it in the trash and go look for an oxime cure which may also be labeled as a "neutral" cure.

Oxime cure silicones are called "neutral" cure silicones because they only off-gas ethyl alcohol during the vulcanization process. This is not nearly as corrosive as acetic acid so they are used for automotive applications.

As a side note the "ultra" series in auto stores is an oxime cure and the black version contains a higher percentage of calcium carbonate which gives it more oil resistance.

I make custom adhesives every day for aerospace manufacturers, race teams, US military you name it we make it. If you want to learn more I have data sheets for most of the products @ siliconesolutions.com.

If I can help with anything else just let me know or email me nathan@siliconesolutions.com <<<<
 
I used the Hylomar Blue on my crank flanges and they leak. But I probably didn't know what I was doing. The stuff uses Acetone as a thinner, so it evaporates almost immediately. I found it easiest to just put it on from the tube right on the flange, but I guess it wasn't good enough. It was very hard to control and then have time to get the cases together before the stuff set up. Maybe I'm off base here, but it was not for me. If I did it again I'd use something different. YMMV.
 
Naw, don't take it too personally DogT, just more wasted Norton worship rituals to face again. Nothing works well first time everytime and reason there are so many varieties to choose from as everyone always looking out for something better. Also reason some much attention to crank one way gizmos. Melted tar might be the best but too difficult to apply or separate. I think if Hylomar sets up too much before mating seems to leave a dry seam oil can part soft layers to pump out, yet if clamped down too soon mooshes too much out to fill gaps when engine seam distortions happening. I have applied acetone to Hylomar i got called away from a bit too long but softened back up to just carry on.
 
hobot said:
snippedRolls Royce sold its Hylomar sealant name off many decades ago. Last couple decade Permatex had the name but lost track this decade as there are a number of sources now and at least a dozen urethane based versions. Last tube I got cost over $50 to have mailed.snipped
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Hobot,
I agree that Hylomar was difficult to find for a few years. I was told that Permatex had licensed the sale of Hylomar from Rolls. When it came time to renew, they could not agree on price, so Prematex quit selling it. FYI, I just received a tube of Universal Blue [P/N 71283] this past week. Cost me the princely :rolleyes: sum of $10.99 [shipping included] from Valco Cincinnati on Amazon.com Delivery was in 4 days.
 
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