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I will.
Crankcase Breather Kit
- Thread starter BritTwit
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Bluey72e
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This is the pump with the check valve pressed in . Note which side is facing out towards the engine case.
What the feed side valve looks like before pressing . Note chamfered end .
Look closely, you will see the aluminum shavings built up on the perimeter of the hole when the valve was pressed in. The oil pump is partially disassembled to see this. Just remove the 4 bolts and separate it a bit is all that is needed.
These shavings must be removed after pressing . OR the upgrade will fail . This is my oil pump you are looking at. This information and directions were given to me by Norton Motorcycles UK .
Any idea where those check valves come from originally Tony ??? I may need to remove mine and use an external device if I cant source one.
Thanks
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Mine came from Norton , I never tried to source it. Can I ask what is wrong with yours ? Are you still getting oil to leak past into the sump ? It may not be the one way valve because the early pumps leaked internally . I had to replace my oil pump to stop this bypass leaking . I have forgotten where you stand with your upgrades. When I say early I mean 2012 ,2013 , 2014 , 2015 etc.. The new pumps probably came about 2016 or MK2 not sure though. How long does it take for your oil level to drop ? My leaking old pump with one way check valve installed and working took my oil leaking from all gone overnight (and I mean oil tank empty next morning) to oil level drops 12mm in two weeks of sitting. I may be assuming that your bike is still wet sumping .
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Bluey72e
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Mines 2015, the oils so erratic, check the oil and there's nothing on the stick, after next ride its ok (mid stick), sometimes it blows 100ml of oil into the air-box next few ride's it wont, cant seem to pinpoint it.
Just stripped down the oil cooler side check valve and that looks ok, no obvious issue and it held the oil back when removing the banjo bolt. I have inspected the pump check valve after reading your post on swarfe but it was clear.
Changed the oil and filter tonight with a slightly thicker 20w50 going to see how that pans out as 10w40 does not suit the climate here so much.
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Sounds like you need an oil pump . Send an email to Norton and see if you can get on the list to order one. You won't loose any more oil to the sump . I have been using 20W50 part of last year and this year. I like it , the transmission feels smoother too.
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BritTwit
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Ok cool, thanks for the advice, will email them now and see what transpires.
Glad I bought the magnetic sump plug from AF1 when I bought the bike, wafer thin shavings after the 1Klm oil change. That crap is an oil-way choker
Holy crap, that's some long pieces of metal!
I've never seen that much on a drain plug.
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Ok cool, thanks for the advice, will email them now and see what transpires.
Glad I bought the magnetic sump plug from AF1 when I bought the bike, wafer thin shavings after the 1Klm oil change. That crap is an oil-way choker
Did you put your in line screen pre-filter yet ? Maybe you should change the oil again in 500 miles and have another look.
Bluey72e
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No inline filter just yet, been waiting over a month for that, apparently its been in Australia ex Sydney for 2 weeks, Post is all over the place here.
The long bits were like a 1 thou thick they fell apart as soon as i messed with them so ultra thin
The long bits were like a 1 thou thick they fell apart as soon as i messed with them so ultra thin
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Just installed mine from AF1 too. That hex plug sucked. My engine oil was in good shape, but my tranny oil had a nice silvery sheen to it.Ok cool, thanks for the advice, will email them now and see what transpires.
Glad I bought the magnetic sump plug from AF1 when I bought the bike, wafer thin shavings after the 1K Klm oil change. That crap is an oil-way choker
