crank problem

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I pulled apart a 750 Commando crank yesterday for a cleaning and ran into a curious problem. Yes, I marked the direction of rotation. During disassembly the nuts seemed to come off a little easier than 30 ft/lb even though I was driving them past the punch marks. I have a new set of bolts and nuts. The bolts could be pushed out with finger pressure. I also noticed that the flywheel had a lot of balance holes drilled in it. As I tried to install the new bolts and studs I began to have real troubles. the bottom 2 studs went in easily. the next four were going to be impossible to fit with out driving them in with a hammer and punch. First I measured the old bolts and the new bolts. They were the same. I could see that the originals ( 2) had score marks and the threads had been munched a little bit which tells me the factory had driven them in. So began a careful inspection of 4 bolt holes. Yes, I tried flopping the flywheel even though I had marked the direction of rotation. Same problem. Taking the 3 pieces of the crank individually, the bolts would pass through easily. Lining them all up and inserting 2 studs and one bolt, I could see a mismatch of the holes. Slight, but the bolts should be a snug fit for locating purposes. To solve the problem I would have to ream out two holes.
Given the problem of the bolt holes not lining up, with the evidence that the factory had driven in two bolts, coupled with all the balancing holes, my conclusion is that this was a less than optimum crank, the factory banged it together and tried to compensate by drilling many balancing holes. Come to think of it, there was a "B" stamped on the flywheel. If this is a "B" crank I would hate to see a "C" one. There was no evidence of aftermarket balancing. My solution was to sideline the crank and use a different one. It went together easily except for one hole which required a slight sanding to make the bolt fit through. And it had a LOT LESS balancing holes and they were shallower. So what is the story here?
 
seattle##gs said:
It went together easily except for one hole which required a slight sanding to make the bolt fit through. And it had a LOT LESS balancing holes and they were shallower. So what is the story here?

Mick Hemmings in his engine rebuild video stated that one bolt was tighter than the rest and needed to be drifted into place.
T
 
seattle##gs said:
what do you think about all the balancing holes in crank#1?
Are you the original owner of the bike so you know its total history? Used?..... then the PO could have had it balanced possibly?
That's my thoughts on the many holes. I had two 750 cranks balanced and they did drill more holes. I asked for static and dynamic to suit the connecting rods and pistons for the balance factor.
Cheers,
Thomas
 
When I balanced my 850 crank for use in my motor without the isolastics, I filled the big hole in the flywheel bob-weight with a steel plug, then started to drill holes in the other side of the flywheel. Then I thought about what I was doing and almost immediately stopped drilling. If the flywheel is going to break in service , the lightening holes might help that happen. With just the plug fitted the BF is about 72%.
 
the motor was bought 15 years ago in a swap meet for $200. It looks like factory balancing. I've seen balanced motors before and they look different. It has 4 holes averaging 1" deep and another 1/2" deep. that's a lot of material and weight removed.
I drove in one bolt but it really chewed up the threads and I had to replace it .
 
seattle##gs said:
the motor was bought 15 years ago in a swap meet for $200. It looks like factory balancing. I've seen balanced motors before and they look different. It has 4 holes averaging 1" deep and another 1/2" deep. that's a lot of material and weight removed.
I drove in one bolt but it really chewed up the threads and I had to replace it .

4 holes on a 750 sounds about right for stock. I have that many at the bottom of the weighted section and a shallow hole at the section near the rod journals. Check your crank throws for offset or height discrepancy. (One piston reaching TDC before the other). Who knows you may have two different rod journals because of past issues with this swap meet engine.
Cheers,
Thomas
 
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