Crank case breather
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willy mac said:
A 73 shouldn't have the timed breather.
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Alrighty Jim beat me [& others] to the punch again by a few decades, but Peel has the DLC pins of JMS and I know to put a meter & valve in my exhaust sucker > to open up just enough to slightly draw fresh air into head via a little filter then out with the exhaust smoke. I just want better ring sealing and no leaks with less complexity - any extra power is just slight side effect. Peels other concern is not to blow frame seams apart by oil pump return pressure as no external frame venting - only a one way valve inward. One issue on boost the intake guides never see low pressure to pull oil down guides into chambers. Exhaust guides never see low chamber pressure even w/o boost.
I will have to experiment on sucker placement and sucker tube aim around O2 sensor turbulence area just beyond the Y union of pipes to actually get some sucking that matters and no back wash, so still good Idea for Peel to have a flapper valve in line. May put shop vac on exit end then spray paint in and see what it does to guide me.
Hm, right now I have the perfect experimental set up in '72 stock Trixie to test the extra good benefit of the reed placed in stock Combat port, this spring's ring grit blow by blew every seam out so still leaks a good bit with the new rings >>> if I go over 70 or get into 2S rpm range, ie: 6000's. Its about impossible to operate that mildly in my area and lack of discipline. Wes and I both stop at power wash before we park at big biker bars to become the center of attention as per normal for any Commando outside of vintage rallys. The Krank valve up high near oil tank worked fine couple years prior to air boot cracks for ring blow out but ain't keeping up no more. I rather put a reed down there to avoid opening up cases to reseal with dental floss and Hylomar.
I will have to experiment on sucker placement and sucker tube aim around O2 sensor turbulence area just beyond the Y union of pipes to actually get some sucking that matters and no back wash, so still good Idea for Peel to have a flapper valve in line. May put shop vac on exit end then spray paint in and see what it does to guide me.
Hm, right now I have the perfect experimental set up in '72 stock Trixie to test the extra good benefit of the reed placed in stock Combat port, this spring's ring grit blow by blew every seam out so still leaks a good bit with the new rings >>> if I go over 70 or get into 2S rpm range, ie: 6000's. Its about impossible to operate that mildly in my area and lack of discipline. Wes and I both stop at power wash before we park at big biker bars to become the center of attention as per normal for any Commando outside of vintage rallys. The Krank valve up high near oil tank worked fine couple years prior to air boot cracks for ring blow out but ain't keeping up no more. I rather put a reed down there to avoid opening up cases to reseal with dental floss and Hylomar.
swooshdave said:
Log book says it's a 73, but maybe the engine is an earlier version. It's got the tacho drive where the points should be and the points housing is up behind the barrels. So the question still stands why does everyone else need one of these breather check valves? Have they all had real issues with oil leaks or is it just because it seems the right thing to do?
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Will my buddy Wes has a '71 -exHyRyder and seals good as long as rings still in half good shape so he's also been doing it 'wrong' too over 3 decades now, with about 2 yr intervals to re-ring frustrations, until he put on extra foam filtration over the crude K/N filter. So to hear the success stories of better evacuation implies to me a disparaging statement on the attention to details like piston clearance and ring gap status and sealing methods by those most happy with their new better flapper valves. Ms Peel and other specials are not really Nortons no mo, so anything goes.
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willy mac said:
The original timed breather works very well when the engine is fresh and the blow-by is low.
Most people have trouble with blowing oil out of the seals and high oil consumption after the engine has some wear and the blowby increases to the point that the small passages can no longer handle the flow. Jim
The original timed breather works very well when the engine is fresh and the blow-by is low.
Most people have trouble with blowing oil out of the seals and high oil consumption after the engine has some wear and the blowby increases to the point that the small passages can no longer handle the flow. Jim[/quote]
At last a reason to explain why I don't need one(Thought I was missing out on something there)
Thanks Jim my donk has 2000 miles on it from rebuild so everything must be working as it should.
Mac
Most people have trouble with blowing oil out of the seals and high oil consumption after the engine has some wear and the blowby increases to the point that the small passages can no longer handle the flow. Jim[/quote]
At last a reason to explain why I don't need one(Thought I was missing out on something there)
Thanks Jim my donk has 2000 miles on it from rebuild so everything must be working as it should.
Mac
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willy mac said:
Engine sounds really early. I assume the engine and frame numbers do not match?
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At last a reason to explain why I don't need one(Thought I was missing out on something there)
Thanks Jim my donk has 2000 miles on it from rebuild so everything must be working as it should.
Mac[/quote]
As long as you ride it easy and don't let me ride it you may get along with the timed breather for a long time.
The timed breather does exactly what a correctly designed reed breather does. It opens every time the piston goes down and closes when the piston goes up. To bad they didn't engineer some larger passages into the design when they increased the engine from a 500 to a 750.
Then they wouldn't have had to go to the big open breather that is on the later engines. The big breather just took away power and increased the number of little, hard to seal oil leaks. Jim
Crap.
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Oh Yes Sir Pete, I agree [as if matters] your bike is definitely as real a Norton as it gets, as even Norton mixed and matched their numbered parts of what ever was left over in the bins during model changes. So my respects on your Norton conglomeration that will confuse others in the future no end.
I'm only half teasing about various upgrades and glad the breed continues to improve, my other half also appreciates that basic Norton issue was good enough, as long as that state lasted before refreshing again too soon is all.
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On darn jonnymac had me going too as need to tip my Combat engine out the way to remove tranny to go though w/o stooping on floor. Peel was a fluke, ran the living snot out of her literally as power was so so eager but stayed oil tight and not even q-tip test of any oil at all in breather tube off TS case with just the bottom feeding Combat baffle on case and normal PVC up by tank, but did try to relieve pumping loss into TS chest by making three 1/2" holes placed not to weaken case, which wild over rev event tested just fine. If I'd known in my novice days about such a reed valve I'd put it on Peel TS case instead. The Combat baffle does lend a bit of steampunk better that other gizmos.
you realy think "ding pop" would offend someone that keeps a skint cat as a pet. oh excuse me "a low maintenance cat" :lol:
concours said:"Ding pops"... really Windy???I thought you'd been through sensitivity training... :lol: Richrd could be offended... or "feel uncomfortable" :mrgreen:
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Hello,
I read much about PCV valves in this forum and I already discovered teh typical oil leaks at my Commando.
Normally the breather hose is connected to the air filter, but most owners (as I) disconnected it to avoid soiling the filter.
But the PCV system (positive crankcase ventilation) wasn't only introduced to avoid pollution, but also the intake suction should
take away the blow-by gases and additional generate the negative pressure in the crankcase.
So my question is:
Do the oil leaks appear because the breather hose is not connected to the air filter ?
Ralf
I read much about PCV valves in this forum and I already discovered teh typical oil leaks at my Commando.
Normally the breather hose is connected to the air filter, but most owners (as I) disconnected it to avoid soiling the filter.
But the PCV system (positive crankcase ventilation) wasn't only introduced to avoid pollution, but also the intake suction should
take away the blow-by gases and additional generate the negative pressure in the crankcase.
So my question is:
Do the oil leaks appear because the breather hose is not connected to the air filter ?
Ralf
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- Apr 15, 2009
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- 11,531
Towner said:
If the breather hose is blocked off then the answer is... probably. Can't you route the breather to the oil tank?
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