Can someone tell me the correct battery number for my recently acquired 1973 750 Hi-Rider? I purchased what was supposed to be the correct battery from an online seller, and I bought the one that many different sellers had listed for this bike. It may be the correct battery, but it doesn't come close to filling the space provided in the battery box on the bike. I realize that not having electric start that the bike could use a considerably smaller battery than if it did have e-start. If it does use a smaller battery than the battery box size, are there some kind of spacers used to fill the unused space?
Correct battery for 1973 750
- Thread starter quawk
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Andover Norton - BATTERY YUASA YB9B/EXIDE EB9B (COLLECTION ONLY) - 06.3244
BATTERY YUASA YB9B/EXIDE EB9B (COLLECTION ONLY)
andover-norton.co.uk
Andover Norton - BATTERY RETAINING BAR (06.1668) BLACK - 06.1667
BATTERY RETAINING BAR (06.1668) BLACK
andover-norton.co.uk
The Mk3 used a completely different battery tray and battery.
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Thanks for the info. Although I've researched the info provided here on the forum, I'm still somewhat confused about Mk3, Mk5, etc. From what I've found, it seems my bike is considered a Mk5, correct? It has the serial on the headstock of 235187, and date stamp of 1/73.Andover Norton - BATTERY YUASA YB9B/EXIDE EB9B (COLLECTION ONLY) - 06.3244
BATTERY YUASA YB9B/EXIDE EB9B (COLLECTION ONLY)andover-norton.co.ukAndover Norton - BATTERY RETAINING BAR (06.1668) BLACK - 06.1667
BATTERY RETAINING BAR (06.1668) BLACKandover-norton.co.uk
The Mk3 used a completely different battery tray and battery.
Seems kinda' backwards that the newer, (850 and e-start) is Mk3, but my older bike is MkV.
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Well that's down to them being 750 and 850. There are also 850 Mk1, Mk1A, Mk2 and Mk2A.
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Yes, Norton did that to confuse everyone.
And, they are successful.
Once you're around them for 20 yrs or so, you start to figure these little nuances out.
marshg246
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The "correct" battery is:
That was an 8-amp hour battery. Most used a 12N7-4B-1 (7 amp hour) or 12N9-4B-1 (9 amp hour) for a long time - they are Flooded Lead/Acid. Today, most use the equivalent AGM such as the YB9B.
None of them fill the battery box. IMHO, the "correct" hold downs are a waste of money - unless the battery is the right height/width/depth, they don't work, and for them to work, the battery must be installed with the terminals toward the oil tank.
These days I make and install a padded "L" bracket that I screw to the inside/back of the battery box which keeps the battery from moving towards the front of the bike. Then I use a Velcro strap around the battery box and battery.
This is only considering 750s. The batteries can be the same for non-Mk3 850s but there are two different battery boxes.
concours
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Packing foam.
Use the closed cell stuff so it doesn't get waterlogged and rust everything.
You can buy OEM packing from AN but it isn't cheap, and Amazon and others send you plenty of good closed cell foam that you can cut to the right size.
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Gotta agree with Greg. Chasing an original battery by number is not the best strategy.
Who wants to deal with acid spills and vents?
Find an AGM that fits and meets your power requirements, and almost anything you use to keep it in place is better than the crappy stock hold down.
Who wants to deal with acid spills and vents?
Find an AGM that fits and meets your power requirements, and almost anything you use to keep it in place is better than the crappy stock hold down.
