lcrken said:The comments about shear strength are a bit of a red herring, I believe. The shear strength of most steels, including the stainless varieties, is generally estimated for design purposes at 60% of tensile strength (UTS). Specific tests and analyses have shown that to be accurate to within a couple percent for typical bolts. That means that a stainless axle with the same tensile strength as a carbon steel axle will have the same shear strength.
lcrken said:In fact, I doubt if any Commando axle has ever failed in shear. The typical failure is a break at the start of the threaded part of the main axle, and is a result of bending stress, not shear. <...>
lcrken said:Looking at the pictures of Madass' axles, I can't see how you could make it any better. In any case, I think it's clearly safer than the original 2-piece design.
mdt-son said:dennisgb said:Aluminum and stainless have significantly different expansion rates. Trying to find a stainless that will expand at the same rate as aluminum for head/barrel bolts is a folly and makes no sense at all.
That's right. I don't want to capture this thread by discussing head bolts but may I point at Peter Bejbom's article in The Roadholder, i think it appeared Dec. 1999. He used high tensile stainless bolts successfully. I can send you a scan if interested, please request by a PM. Calculation of head bolts is a topic of it's own.
-Knut
dennisgb said:I didn't mean to imply that proper stainless steel could not be used for head bolts...just that the original comment made no sense in trying to find stainless steel head bolts that would expand at the same rate as aluminum. You are correct that the discussion of head bolts is a topic of it's own.
RoadScholar said:If you ride your Norton, on the public roads, with the respect that an antique deserves you will not experience any issues with stainless axles. I like Madasses approach, simplicity is a good thing.
Ouch, that hurt. I never consider my Commando as "antique" and don't "respect" it that way.
ZFD said:Which might have something to do with a later change in the drawing for the Mk3 rear axle (post-production). Which solved the design problem it seems.
Rohan said:ZFD said:Which might have something to do with a later change in the drawing for the Mk3 rear axle (post-production). Which solved the design problem it seems.
Just out of interest, precisely what design change is this ?
Mk3 owners are probably dying of curiousity at this point....
J. M. Leadbeater said:As far as I am aware and I have NOT researched it, mainly because my very Senior tame Metalurgist is no longer with us so I can pick up the phone and gain access to his vaste knowledge, the only stainless that matches the properties of the original wheel spindle material is ....17-4PH in condition 1075. When, many decades ago, I tried to obtain some of a suitable size I was told by several steel stockists I could
have what I wanted IF I were to order and pay for a steel mills minimum production.......I believe it was a French Steel mil which sounds about right for the UK!!
dennisgb said:Matchless said:The grade of stainless you need to look for is 431 otherwise known as EN57. This is a high tensile Martensitic grade & has good shear strength. Most after market wheel spindles are made from 303 which is in my opinion not suitable. The original parts would probably have been made from EN16 or similar. Not sure why you would want a stainless wheel spindle anyway, as it's all hidden away and covered in grease.
300 Series is dead soft and hard to machine...can't be hardened. 400 series is still somewhat hard to machine compared to most steels, but can be hardened. Not sure that stainless of any type is a proper material for high stressed parts unless it is hardened, even then there are better choices. If rust is the only reason for using stainless I would prefer some sort of plating on proper steel parts. Just my opinion.
lcrken said:I don't know why so many people here are so insistent that stainless steel alloys are soft, weak, fracture prone, etc. It's just not true. Maybe it's from bad experiences from the common 18-8 stainless screws found in hardware stores. As with carbon and other alloy steels, it's all about selecting the right one for the job.
Rohan said:lcrken said:I don't know why so many people here are so insistent that stainless steel alloys are soft, weak, fracture prone, etc. It's just not true. Maybe it's from bad experiences from the common 18-8 stainless screws found in hardware stores. As with carbon and other alloy steels, it's all about selecting the right one for the job.
Ain't that the truth.
When was the last time you saw a stainless bolt supplier actually specify what grade they were using.
Even if you requested specific details.
Let alone batch numbers and pedigree etc.
That said, anything less common can be serious $$$, even with a significant discount....
lcrken said:Rohan said:lcrken said:I don't know why so many people here are so insistent that stainless steel alloys are soft, weak, fracture prone, etc. It's just not true. Maybe it's from bad experiences from the common 18-8 stainless screws found in hardware stores. As with carbon and other alloy steels, it's all about selecting the right one for the job.
Ain't that the truth.
When was the last time you saw a stainless bolt supplier actually specify what grade they were using.
Even if you requested specific details.
Let alone batch numbers and pedigree etc.
That said, anything less common can be serious $$$, even with a significant discount....
That's one of the reasons I like ARP so much. They are very forthcoming about the materials they use and the specs. But they do tend to be more pricey than the no-name stuff. I collected a lot of NAS, MS, and AN fasteners back when they were available as cheap surplus from government contracts. The MIL-SPECS tell you everything you could possibly want to know about them. I use the stuff I have whenever possible. Unfortunately, the supply has really dried up a lot in the last couple of decades. It's all still available from aerospace industry supply houses, but quite expensive.
Ken
JimNH said:While working for a now defunct airline I simply raided the hardware bins
lcrken said:Not so, Bernhard.
In general, austenitic stainless steels (mostly the common 300 series) can not be hardened by heat treating, but can be work hardened by heavy, deep forming operations, which is through hardening, not surface hardening. As you point out, there are a variety of surface hardening techniques that work for most austenitic steels. e.t.c.
Ken
Bernhard said:dennisgb said:Matchless said:The grade of stainless you need to look for is 431 otherwise known as EN57. This is a high tensile Martensitic grade & has good shear strength. Most after market wheel spindles are made from 303 which is in my opinion not suitable. The original parts would probably have been made from EN16 or similar. Not sure why you would want a stainless wheel spindle anyway, as it's all hidden away and covered in grease.
300 Series is dead soft and hard to machine...can't be hardened. 400 series is still somewhat hard to machine compared to most steels, but can be hardened. Not sure that stainless of any type is a proper material for high stressed parts unless it is hardened, even then there are better choices. If rust is the only reason for using stainless I would prefer some sort of plating on proper steel parts. Just my opinion.
I wish to point out that stainless steel when hardened can only be case hardened, as does ALL the stainless steel brake discs that are supplied on bikes from the 1970s.