Commando Hydraulic Brake light switch Alternative

Yes and caused me surprise fitting hassle as its got flat spade terminals instead of Lucus round bullets on my '72 factory issue. I'd not paid attention to that little detail on dissassmebly. I trimmed the spades to mostly just jam up in the female bullet ends and then held there, mostly, by heat shrink. Worked as good as Lucas, which the HD version may well be too. My Other '72 has flat terminals from Lucas so go figure.

BTW gleaming view of your rear brake hoses was delicious for me to see too.

Ugh, I"ve got Trixie Combat hardware almost all on but for exhausts so next few nights will be quality time wiring back the basics, lights ignition and horn. Someone had gone through her before me and removed the police and turn signal excess confusion. Put in amp meter but no need to wire it just to watch its needle bounce to tell me engine is running : )

hobot said:

Yes and caused me surprise fitting hassle as its got flat spade terminals instead of Lucus round bullets on my '72 factory issue. I'd not paid attention to that little detail on dissassmebly. I trimmed the spades to mostly just jam up in the female bullet ends and then held there, mostly, by heat shrink. Worked as good as Lucas, which the HD version may well be too. My Other '72 has flat terminals from Lucas so go figure.

BTW gleaming view of your rear brake hoses was delicious for me to see too.

Ugh, I"ve got Trixie Combat hardware almost all on but for exhausts so next few nights will be quality time wiring back the basics, lights ignition and horn. Someone had gone through her before me and removed the police and turn signal excess confusion. Put in amp meter but no need to wire it just to watch its needle bounce to tell me engine is running : )

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Do you mind posting a picture of your round bullet brake light switch?

Wasn't a hose, that's the cable. Since when did you see a disk brake on the back of my bike? :mrgreen:

OK armored cable not hoses, still a sight to see on compact not yet grimed and worn long in tooth set up.

Why your interest and inquiry? I'd rather have a smaller version the boot fits better, but after Ms Peels extreme excesses I've taken on the challenge of no brainer ordering only Norton parts. I liked both my factory Combats so so much I realized I'd give up Ms Peel in the end before plain Jane Trixie. Realize I plan to turn morotcycle word and known physics of handling on it freaking head with Ms Peel and plot and plan sideways barrel rolls on her, NO SHIT as I know she can do it already, but not expecting it > didn't land so well to keep going.

Not sure if I still have the old switch, think I put in drawer, but drawer is so rat nest crapped Ill have to risk some rodent viral infection to poke around. Not much in that drawer I need but a robust rare used tool or two, so saving dumping drawer for photo to show what I got to put up with and drawer next to it on how I must deal with it, when nothing else ahead of my priority list. Will start Trixie wires tonight but I tease thee not, switch had round hollar posts that mated with round bullet terminals on wire ends.

Trixie is as yellar as your 'Vett or Cdo.

hobot said:

Why your interest and inquiry?

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Because I've never seen a switch like what you describe. Of course the rats have probably already had their way with the switch wiring.

No that part of wiring still exists, I think hanging on wall 6 yrs now.
If i was a betting man... I tease ya into betting I was making it up
like the wonders of rump rodage. Get new one here $8.58.
http://www.autopartsdealer.com/painless ... tent=rank1

I finally got around to installing the brake light switch from British Parts NW.



Here you can see the difference in length. Now I have to re-bleed the whole thing again. Ugh. I'll wait until I have the front disk back and pull it off the bench. Too hard with it up high.

Good news is that the switch definitely works! And it fits under the rubber boot better.

No comment on the round terminal switch eh.
No matter, don't sweat the air bleed, if Ya can bleed it by good ole pumping
and squirting with the caliper mounted just tip forks to angle master cylinder most level then tie the lever back and top off and come back tom marrow, top off it needed, cap and ride with a few pumps up to make sure first. Take every anal precaution to protect Everything from little splashes and drips or spots of raw surface will appear some time later, days, to remind ya.

hobot said:

No comment on the round terminal switch eh.
No matter, don't sweat the air bleed, if Ya can bleed it by good ole pumping
and squirting with the caliper mounted just tip forks to angle master cylinder most level then tie the lever back and top off and come back tom marrow, top off it needed, cap and ride with a few pumps up to make sure first. Take every anal precaution to protect Everything from little splashes and drips or spots of raw surface will appear some time later, days, to remind ya.

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I don't know what to think of the round terminal switch other than I have never seen one like that and I wouldn't use it on my bike.

And trust me, I take my anal precaution very seriously. :shock:

Yes kinda threw me first time trying to fit round pegs in flat slots, but I did.
I learned about brake fluid on nice paint by ignorantly missing a master cylinder
leak wind blew away with some very slight sprinkles I thought was just non booze gas splash, so just wiped off thinking film would evaporate as usual, ugh. Peel will be cheap down and dirty easy re-touch rattle can Electric Kool aid form now on.

No rain, not cold and no appointments tomorrow so far, so feels like a Norton nest night to me coming on. I've yet to flush Trixie's 3 yr old fluid and as it ain't electrical, will do that first. Already rebuilt with SS parts so preventive maintenance I've heard about others mention to do.

swooshdave said:

I finally got around to installing the brake light switch from British Parts NW.

Here you can see the difference in length. Now I have to re-bleed the whole thing again. Ugh. I'll wait until I have the front disk back and pull it off the bench. Too hard with it up high.

Good news is that the switch definitely works! And it fits under the rubber boot better.

Click to expand...

So no problem with the longer threads then?

openroad said:

So no problem with the longer threads then?

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So far no problems. Fluid definitely gets past it so there isn't a clearance problem. And the switch works, which is also an improvement from the last one. :mrgreen:

OK great to know but so what now ya know Lockheed allows same switch as so so many other brands bikes use. Next issue is keeping the terminals keeping on.

Put your bright eager mind on the funky mechanical rear switch I want to keep in stock location and appearance on a practically factory Combat.

Check the brake today, had the lever pinned back. Brake feels better than before. I'm thinking this will be a success. Disk back from DBR this week!

swooshdave said:

openroad said:

So no problem with the longer threads then?

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So far no problems. Fluid definitely gets past it so there isn't a clearance problem. And the switch works, which is also an improvement from the last one. :mrgreen:

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So is the switch seating on the end of the threads or on the switch seat and copper washer?

Ron L said:

swooshdave said:

openroad said:

So no problem with the longer threads then?

Click to expand...

So far no problems. Fluid definitely gets past it so there isn't a clearance problem. And the switch works, which is also an improvement from the last one. :mrgreen:

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So is the switch seating on the end of the threads or on the switch seat and copper washer?

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Don't know what you mean by this. There is an aluminum washer and it all seems good.

swooshdave said:

Ron L said:

So is the switch seating on the end of the threads or on the switch seat and copper washer?

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Don't know what you mean by this. There is an aluminum washer and it all seems good.

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What i think he means is did the washer take up the gap and seat or did the switch bottom out into the housing leaving the washer loose?

pvisseriii said:

swooshdave said:

Ron L said:

So is the switch seating on the end of the threads or on the switch seat and copper washer?

Click to expand...

Don't know what you mean by this. There is an aluminum washer and it all seems good.

Click to expand...

What i think he means is did the washer take up the gap and seat or did the switch bottom out into the housing leaving the washer loose?

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Washer is not loose. If it has been I would have reported as so. :mrgreen: