To me your impatience will be your downfall. You say you are listening, but really you aren't. Sorry if this seems personal, but I would give the same advice to anyone.
Why the panic to 'change fluids'? Do you imagine this is going to do something magical? That the bike will be safer to run because you changed the fluids?
Agreed, fresh oil is better than old oil, but it is where the oil is going and what it is going to pick up that matters. With a Norton engine you cannot guarantee that all the nasties will just flow out of the sump plug and get thrown away! I am going to cover a couple of basics but by no means everything.
The oil is normally kept in the tank. But the design allows oil to migrate to the sump, normally through the oil pump gears. First, where is the oil now?
Is there any in the tank? When oil flows from the tank to the engine it goes through a basic gauze filter on it's way out of the tank. You are going to need to pull that and thoroughly clean it. And make sure the tank itself is not layered with sludge at the bottom. If it is you would need to pull the tank to clean it properly! This is more than an afternoon's work.
What is the condition of the rubber hoses that connect the oil tank to the engine? Cracked hoses are going to be a problem on either feed or return. Does the scavenge/return line have a cartridge filter in it?, not all do, but some did and many more have had them fitted over the years. If it has, have you got a fresh filter to hand? Don't put any fresh oil in until you have fitted a new filter. Remember there is no filter between the pump and the crank and top end oil feed, so whatever gets caught in the return line filter has been through the pump once or twice. There is a basic gauze filter in the large sump plug when fitted. The oil being picked up by the scavenge side of the pump does go through here. BTW, do you have a 38mm or 7/8" Whitworth socket or box spanner?
Right, that oil from the tank is drawn into the engine through the oil pump and most of it is fed to the end of the crank, where in turn it is fed to the big end of the conrod. These are shell bearings. After lubing the big end, oil is in turn splashed around to lube other parts like the roller main bearings and the camshaft and followers!
(camshaft oiling is fairly critical on a Norton motor, so if you do start it don't let it sit at idle because it doesn't really get much oil until over 2000rpm!)
But here is the thing....in normal operation oil is fed into the end of the crank and into a chamber inside the big ends and feeds out to the shell bearings. This chamber has two purposes, it is a reservoir for the oil, and it acts like a centrifuge to separate larger pieces of debris in the oil. At overhaul this trap needs cleaning, but you don't have time for that!
Three things may happen when you try to start the engine, which is what your impatience will urge you to do.
1, absolutely nothing untoward because in fact this was done in the recent past. 2, some of the accumulated crud can become dislodged and flow into the shell bearings and limit flow to the main bearings and cam, and eventually be fed back through the oil pump to the tank. 3, the sludge prevents any oil flow to the shell bearings and subsequently the main bearings and camshaft.
I will leave you to imagine what kind of disaster you now have on your hands.
We don't need you to tell us the full story of the bike, but if you know when it was last run, when it last had any servicing done that is going to help a great deal.
So what do I think you might do with Friday afternoon? Well, after you have checked the tank for oil, and if you find some, do drain it. Also drain the sump, because that may be where most of the oil is.
Investigate the filter, and do get a fresh one, and a few other parts/tools. (Timing cover gasket, oil pump seal, oil feed seal, camshaft seal and camshaft seal tool, and you are going to need internal circlip pliers)
Then check your manual and look at how to remove the timing cover. This will reveal the pump and timing gears, and give you a clue to the actual state of the engine internals. If it is full of sludge in here, it won't be the only place. On the other hand, if it is nice and clean, things are looking up, replace the seals and refit cover. You will probably be out of time......
