Commando 961 oil spec

JASO MA-2 needs to be part of the spec, this means the oil is compatible with modern motorcycle clutch plate materials. If its not part of the spec then the additive package risks being too slippy and the clutch not functioning. JASO MA-2 is a higher standard than the older JASO MA now known as JASO MA-1.
Hey Kommando, I bow to your (far) superior knowledge of lubricants! My expertise peaked as a teenager :oops:- let’s not talk about that though!

Are you saying that the Silkoline product no longer cuts it?
 
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I use the recommended Silkolene Comp. Don't want to risk it....and Stu told me too....so there!
Did I? I don't remember. Early bikes were labelled as Silkolene Comp 4 being recommended, but then Norton switched to Silkolene Super 4, the semi-synthetic equivalent. In 2019 Norton then switched to Motul 5100.......basically they offered a bigger sponsorship deal to Norton to be associated with the brand. I believe Norton today still use 5100.
 
Did I? I don't remember. Early bikes were labelled as Silkolene Comp 4 being recommended, but then Norton switched to Silkolene Super 4, the semi-synthetic equivalent. In 2019 Norton then switched to Motul 5100.......basically they offered a bigger sponsorship deal to Norton to be associated with the brand. I believe Norton today still use 5100.
So what do you recommend Stu?
And why ?
 
Any good quality modern 10w40 semi-synthetic should be fine....its not exactly a highly strung motorcycle engine. On my own bike, I've been playing around with weights. It's currently on 20w50 for engine and primary. I'm also trying out a customers bike on 20w50 for the engine, as its always been a heavy breather from new with plenty of oil accumulated in the catch bottle after a highway blast...so it'll be interesting to see if it has any effect on it.
 
Akýkoľvek kvalitný moderný polosyntetický 10w40 by mal byť v poriadku....nie je to presne motor motocykla s vysokým odpružením. Na vlastnom bicykli som sa hral so závažím. Momentálne je na 20w50 pre motor a primár. Skúšam aj zákaznícky bicykel na 20w50 pre motor, pretože to bol vždy ťažký odvzdušňovač od nového s množstvom oleja nahromadeného v záchytnej fľaši po výbuchu na diaľnici...takže bude zaujímavé zistiť, či to bude má na to nejaký vplyv.
Tiež mám predstavu, že na jar použijem 20W 50 alebo 10W 60. Motor bude určite menej hlučný. Len ma zaujíma, ako bude fungovať spojka.
 
Tiež mám predstavu, že na jar použijem 20W 50 alebo 10W 60. Motor bude určite menej hlučný. Len ma zaujíma, ako bude fungovať spojka.
May have been lost in the translation🤔?

Commando 961 oil spec
 
Regardless of the viscosity grade the oil needs JASO MA-2 in its spec to be kind to the clutch. Easier with a 20/50W than a 10/60W but still available.

 
To be honest, I'm yet to see a dedicated motorcycle oil that's not wet clutch compatible...and seeing as we're talking about motorcycles here, I didn't feel the need to go any further than the viscosity.
Specification aside, remember also not to drink it 😂
 
Tiež mám predstavu, že na jar použijem 20W 50 alebo 10W 60. Motor bude určite menej hlučný. Len ma zaujíma, ako bude fungovať spojka.
"I also have an idea of using 20W 50 or 10W 60 in the spring. The engine will definitely be less noisy. I'm just wondering how the clutch will work"

Mine was fine with both. The 10w60 I used was 300v, just because I had a lot of it in stock. It's a race oil, so not ideal for regular road use. I switched to 20w50 super 4, because I didn't want to waste too much of the expensive 300v....and I had plenty of 20w50 in stock too.
 
Aby som bol úprimný, ešte som nevidel špeciálny motocyklový olej, ktorý by nebol kompatibilný s mokrou spojkou... a keďže ma bavíme o motocykloch, necítil som potrebu ísť ďalej, ako je viskozita.
Špecifikácie stranou, pamätajte tiež, že to nepite😂
Mal som skúsenosť s olejom v motokrosovej motorke, tiež to bol špeciálny motorkový olej a spojka nefungovala správne - šmýkala. Nechcem však spochybniť vaše znalosti. Bola to len hypotéza založená na mojich skúsenostiach.
 
Mal som skúsenosť s olejom v motokrosovej motorke, tiež to bol špeciálny motorkový olej a spojka nefungovala správne - šmýkala. Nechcem však spochybniť vaše znalosti. Bola to len hypotéza založená na mojich skúsenostiach.
"I had an experience with the oil in a motocross bike, it was also a special motorcycle oil and the clutch didn't work properly - it would slip. I don't want to impugn your knowledge though. It was just a hypothesis based on my experience."

I've experienced clutch slip when switching to a fully synthetic motorcycle oil, Silkolene Pro 4, but the clutch was far from new. New plates fitted, and it was fine on that oil thereafter. That was on my trackbike, seen two trackdays running fully synthetic since the new clutch was fitted, no problem. The old clutch was fine on the semi, I think it was just clinging on though.
 
Did I? I don't remember. Early bikes were labelled as Silkolene Comp 4 being recommended, but then Norton switched to Silkolene Super 4, the semi-synthetic equivalent. In 2019 Norton then switched to Motul 5100.......basically they offered a bigger sponsorship deal to Norton to be associated with the brand. I believe Norton today still use 5100.
Definitely was on a thread here. Can't remember what one!
 
Remember reading a Castrol paper recently that recommended not using fully synthetic oil in an air cooled/bearing engine until it was fully run in - in their tests, this was about 5,000 miles before all the surface pointy bits had been worn down. Fully synthetic oil, I believe, is too good for the likes of our engines and I will always use semi-synthetic as stated by Norton.
This is actually the best advice I have seen in a long time. This is the same reason HD and other OEMs initially put regular oil in their motors during the break-in period, and also, on the early air-cooled motors, they went with straight 50- and 60-weight oils. Air-cooled engines need all the help they can get. Look at the dirt bike market. Honda still recommends their GN4 for modern bikes, atvs and other machines which is a conventional oil from the 70's. They do spec semi and full for other products but a lot of air cooled not so much.

On a modern air-cooled after a break-in, you can switch to synthetic that doesn't hurt the clutch pack if shared with the engine, or if in a gearbox, there are so many other oils that are gearbox specific and work better. Redline, Belray, and some of the Delo products are what we use

Also, remember when you see a specific oil mentioned in a manual like Castrol or Motul, it's because that oil manufacturer has a deal with the OEM to advertise the oil. Same reason you see oil manufacture stickers on bikes near the fill port. Product placement!!

During summer, if you are looking at 85F plus temps, we recommend a 20w-50 and use 10w-40 for winter.

Really, oil is about the use and changing more frequently when hot or used than the oil debate that continues to this day. Also, you can change the oil without a filter change every other change after a break-in as well if you would like.
 
"I had an experience with the oil in a motocross bike, it was also a special motorcycle oil and the clutch didn't work properly - it would slip. I don't want to impugn your knowledge though. It was just a hypothesis based on my experience."

I've experienced clutch slip when switching to a fully synthetic motorcycle oil, Silkolene Pro 4, but the clutch was far from new. New plates fitted, and it was fine on that oil thereafter. That was on my trackbike, seen two trackdays running fully synthetic since the new clutch was fitted, no problem. The old clutch was fine on the semi, I think it was just clinging on though.
This happens with modern "chemistry" with full synthetics. They even claim it on the labels.
 
You guys are all over this obviously. Can put the Silcoline ordered in other bikes - what would you guys recommend for a well run-in bike operating in a sub-tropical environment?

Bike generally does’nt get ridden unless that big yellow ball is shining (brightly), blue skies, fluffy white clouds - ya get the picture!:rolleyes:
 
Definitely was on a thread here. Can't remember what one!
Sorry chap, honestly don't remember....and don't know why I would either. As I say, the very early bikes ran with Comp 4, the fully synthetic, but thereafter switched to Super 4, the semi synthetic...which is all I ever saw in use at the factory, until they switch to a new sponsor with Motul. The sponsor deals were basically all the oil, lubes and sprays was supplied to Norton for free, as long as we put the sticker on the tank recommending that brand. Motul offered the same deal, but also chucked in a larger cash incentive to have Motul on the TT bikes fairings too.
Had a search, and according to the forum I've only used the word Comp once, and that was in this thread 🤷🏻‍♂️ Nothing wrong with using it, it's just overkill for the engine spec.
 

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Sorry chap, honestly don't remember....and don't know why I would either. As I say, the very early bikes ran with Comp 4, the fully synthetic, but thereafter switched to Super 4, the semi synthetic...which is all I ever saw in use at the factory, until they switch to a new sponsor with Motul. The sponsor deals were basically all the oil, lubes and sprays was supplied to Norton for free, as long as we put the sticker on the tank recommending that brand. Motul offered the same deal, but also chucked in a larger cash incentive to have Motul on the TT bikes fairings too.
Had a search, and according to the forum I've only used the word Comp once, and that was in this thread 🤷🏻‍♂️ Nothing wrong with using it, it's just overkill for the engine spec.
Maybe me imagining it....not beyond the realms of possibility TBF
 
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