cNw #101 Norton Commando 850

Good news. I’ve just been advised of a shipment date: departure 22nd May, arriving Southampton 24th June. Quite a wait but it is what it is; thankful I now know roughly when I’ll receive it then I can press on with all the lovely paperwork and fun and games with HMRC & DVLA

Hi Simon, which rim and tire sizes did Matt select for CnW #101?

- Knut

AFAIK

• Excel Rim – wm 3 (2.15) Front with 100/90 19: wm 4 (2.50) with 120/90 18 Rear

Thanks!
Excel rims are made of a 7000 series alloy. They are prone to corrosion when subjected to a humid climate.
I don't want to spoil your joy owning the bike, but you will be facing a challenge keeping the rims nice and shiny when subjected to the usual British climate.
I live in a coastal region in Norway, and ruled out Excel rims for this reason. Sun rims (by Buchanan) and Morad rims are made of 6000 series alloys, which are better suited to this climate (I am still looking into Borrani rims). Even so, I will be coating my rims using a ceramic paint.

- Knut

mdt-son said:

Thanks!
Excel rims are made of a 7000 series alloy. They are prone to corrosion when subjected to a humid climate.
I don't want to spoil your joy owning the bike, but you will be facing a challenge keeping the rims nice and shiny when subjected to the usual British climate.
I live in a coastal region in Norway, and ruled out Excel rims for this reason. Sun rims (by Buchanan) and Morad rims are made of 6000 series alloys, which are better suited to this climate (I am still looking into Borrani rims). Even so, I will be coating my rims using a ceramic paint.

- Knut

Click to expand...

I have Matt's rims (same as #101) on my #134.
It is now getting on for 5 years old and zero evidence of corrosion. I carefully inspected them at tyre change. 3rd rear going on soon (13,000 miles) so will be looking closely.
I live 1km from the sea in central Queensland, Australia.
Someone on the forum recommended White Diamond metal polish - best I have ever used, especially on rims.
Cheers

Something tells me the #101 won’t be being ridden through the British winters !

Nigel’s correct, no winter riding unless zero salt and dry as a bone; I have other bikes for that. The previous owner lived close to the sea too and the rims and the rest of the aluminium is only lightly tarnished, zero evidence of pitting from the photos I have.

Matt polished both Z plates when he replaced the scratched swing arm and they are back to show level so all bodes well for the rest.

At the end of the day the bike is for riding not trailering to shows nevertheless I’ll enjoy keeping looking smart even if I can’t get it perfect like Matt does.

Latest on shipping: the vessel docked in Long Beach yesterday and departs Wednesday; just hoping for no cock ups. Lands in Southampton 24th June after brief stops in Panama, Columbia and Canada.

I rode the Oxford DGR yesterday, shame I didn’t have the Norton for that or the Andover Norton bash on Saturday which I was hoping for; there’s always next year.

robs ss said:

I have Matt's rims (same as #101) on my #134.
It is now getting on for 5 years old and zero evidence of corrosion. I carefully inspected them at tyre change. 3rd rear going on soon (13,000 miles) so will be looking closely.
I live 1km from the sea in central Queensland, Australia.
Someone on the forum recommended White Diamond metal polish - best I have ever used, especially on rims.
Cheers

Click to expand...

Your bike looks fab Rob. I assume Matt had a one-off custom Corbin seat made for you as I understood they don’t offer one for the Interstate?

Is there a thread for yours, I love to hear some about you ownership?

Café au Lait said:

Nigel’s correct, no winter riding unless zero salt and dry as a bone; I have other bikes for that. The previous owner lived close to the sea too and the rims and the rest of the aluminium is only lightly tarnished, zero evidence of pitting from the photos I have.

Matt polished both Z plates when he replaced the scratched swing arm and they are back to show level so all bodes well for the rest.

At the end of the day the bike is for riding not trailering to shows nevertheless I’ll enjoy keeping looking smart even if I can’t get it perfect like Matt does.

Latest on shipping: the vessel docked in Long Beach yesterday and departs Wednesday; just hoping for no cock ups. Lands in Southampton 24th June after brief stops in Panama, Columbia and Canada.

I rode the Oxford DGR yesterday, shame I didn’t have the Norton for that or the Andover Norton bash on Saturday which I was hoping for; there’s always next year.

Click to expand...

Oxford DGR? You shudda said, cudda popped in for a cuppa !

What was it like? I did it some years ago and was utterly unimpressed. All stop / start and never got out of first gear. I had a Vincent at the time with rather high gearing. Needed a new clutch after that DGR !

I checked the list and didn’t see you on it. It was ok for my first one. As you say, lots of stop start. I rode the Enfield which was the right choice for sure. The issue I had was there wasn’t much riding in the city centre, stopped at Radcliffe Square and the headed out towards Witney. Looking on YouTube the one in Guildford looked far better winding through the cobbled lanes. Still, it was fun and Oxford ride achieved over £22k which was decent. There were 2 Vincents, a Rapide and a Black Shaddow, very nice.

Found a copy of The Classic MotorCycle Dec ‘15 with you on the cover, good read, nice bike. Have you added an electric start since?

Anyway I look forward to meeting up sometime soon. FYI classic car and bike night is back on at the Six Bells even though the pub is yet to open; hopefully they’ll find a new landlord by the time my bike is on the road, I’m guessing early-mid July; blimey it’ll be 6 months since I started proceed by then.

Café au Lait said:

I checked the list and didn’t see you on it. It was ok for my first one. As you say, lots of stop start. I rode the Enfield which was the right choice for sure. The issue I had was there wasn’t much riding in the city centre, stopped at Radcliffe Square and the headed out towards Witney. Looking on YouTube the one in Guildford looked far better winding through the cobbled lanes. Still, it was fun and Oxford ride achieved over £22k which was decent. There were 2 Vincents, a Rapide and a Black Shaddow, very nice.

Found a copy of The Classic MotorCycle Dec ‘15 with you on the cover, good read, nice bike. Have you added an electric start since?

Anyway I look forward to meeting up sometime soon. FYI classic car and bike night is back on at the Six Bells even though the pub is yet to open; hopefully they’ll find a new landlord by the time my bike is on the road, I’m guessing early-mid July; blimey it’ll be 6 months since I started proceed by then.

Click to expand...

Was that Dec’15 article about the Commando?

If so, yes, it’s had the E start fitted since then, along with a few other tweaks like different shocks and front end, new 920 engine, TTI box…

robs ss said:

I have Matt's rims (same as #101) on my #134.
It is now getting on for 5 years old and zero evidence of corrosion. I carefully inspected them at tyre change. 3rd rear going on soon (13,000 miles) so will be looking closely.
I live 1km from the sea in central Queensland, Australia.
Someone on the forum recommended White Diamond metal polish - best I have ever used, especially on rims.
Cheers

Click to expand...

Rob,
After reading about White Diamond I got some and could not believe the results!Great polish
Mike

mdt-son said:

Thanks!
Excel rims are made of a 7000 series alloy. They are prone to corrosion when subjected to a humid climate.
I don't want to spoil your joy owning the bike, but you will be facing a challenge keeping the rims nice and shiny when subjected to the usual British climate.
I live in a coastal region in Norway, and ruled out Excel rims for this reason. Sun rims (by Buchanan) and Morad rims are made of 6000 series alloys, which are better suited to this climate (I am still looking into Borrani rims). Even so, I will be coating my rims using a ceramic paint.

- Knut

Click to expand...

I run the Borrani rims (shouldered) on mine and am very pleased. I live in a humid area but would never coat them with anything. They keep a beautiful shine with no oxidation whatsoever.Just my 2 cents.
Mike

Café au Lait said:

Your bike looks fab Rob. I assume Matt had a one-off custom Corbin seat made for you as I understood they don’t offer one for the Interstate?

Is there a thread for yours, I love to hear some about you ownership?

Click to expand...

No - not a thread about the bike - just bits and pieces as I was doing things.
I'll PM you with a list of alterations in a day or so.
Cheers

@Café au Lait , I'll give a summary of the changes I have made - let me know of you're interested in more info on any of them.
Here's what it was in March 2020 - as sent by Matt (all photos are thumbnails - click on them to make them larger)

* Fitted Niton R3 rear shocks - MUCH more comfortable - had to make spacers to lift springs to clear chain guard. The standard (Girling, I think) shocks were already leaning quite heavily on the chain guard - now there's about 4mm clearance. Thanks to @kommando for recommending them.



* Replaced rubber carb mounts to shift them forward - tops of carbs (FCR35s) were rubbing on the frame.
* Disabled the pumper (just made a shorter actuation rod). No drop in performance at all. it also means wankers can't wash your bores be twisting the throttle when parked. Also means you can't "water-pistol" your eye - as one "nameless" member here has!
* Fitted Ohlins steering damper - some are dead against them. For me it's just an insurance policy.

* Made "halfway rearsets" - the Interstate tank is 4" longer than the Roadster so, for me, the footpegs need to be that far aft.
* Changed the footage hanger mounts from button head screws (don't like screwing in & out of z-plates and the LH one has to come off each time you check belt tension or clean the clutch). Changed to ARP studs & 12 point nuts.
* Re-jetted the carbs - was running a bit too rich. Thanks to @KiwiShane for his sharing setting based on his experiments, Running very nice now.
* Did a "de-bling" program. I ordered it with too much polished metal. both rear wheel centres are now satin black. Did the same with the headlight bucket and speedo/tacho buckets (got new cnc machined ones from Matt - they sealed at the bottom - very nice) and instrument panel. Still a few items to go here.
* Installed Mk3 upper head steady springs - now adjusted so the front iso stud can be pushed back & forth by hand when loosened.
* Fitted louder, dual horns above the z-plates - where you can get at them.
* Installed Kisan Signal Minder (self cancelling indicators that pause countdown while the brake in "on") and then Kisan Tailblazer (initially flashes the brake light slowing to solid "on")
* Installed 2oz (57g) of Counteract beads in each inner tube. No need for balance weight and the wheels are always in balance. Works really well.
* Had wet-sumping problems so installed timing cover and oil pump with AMR mods. Very good but then found the main culprit was pitting in the gasket face of the crankcase. All good now.
* Put 1.3kg of lead shot into the handlebars with silicone plugs to allow bar-end mirrors. Settled the, already mild, buzz even further.
* Installed the red tank & side covers I bought from @Dellis in the UK (thanks Dave) - perfect timing as the front bosses on the green tank started leaking. Still looking for someone to do the repair without destroying the great paint job.

I think that's about it - here's how it is now:
Cheers

robs ss said:

@Café au Lait , I'll give a summary of the changes I have made - let me know of you're interested in more info on any of them.
Here's what it was in March 2020 - as sent by Matt (all photos are thumbnails - click on them to make them larger)
View attachment 114478
* Fitted Niton R3 rear shocks - MUCH more comfortable - had to make spacers to lift springs to clear chain guard. The standard (Girling, I think) shocks were already leaning quite heavily on the chain guard - now there's about 4mm clearance. Thanks to @kommando for recommending them.

View attachment 114479

* Replaced rubber carb mounts to shift them forward - tops of carbs (FCR35s) were rubbing on the frame.
* Disabled the pumper (just made a shorter actuation rod). No drop in performance at all. it also means wankers can't wash your bores be twisting the throttle when parked. Also means you can't "water-pistol" your eye - as one "nameless" member here has!
* Fitted Ohlins steering damper - some are dead against them. For me it's just an insurance policy.
View attachment 114481
* Made "halfway rearsets" - the Interstate tank is 4" longer than the Roadster so, for me, the footpegs need to be that far aft.
* Changed the footage hanger mounts from button head screws (don't like screwing in & out of z-plates and the LH one has to come off each time you check belt tension or clean the clutch). Changed to ARP studs & 12 point nuts.
* Re-jetted the carbs - was running a bit too rich. Thanks to @KiwiShane for his sharing setting based on his experiments, Running very nice now.
* Did a "de-bling" program. I ordered it with too much polished metal. both rear wheel centres are now satin black. Did the same with the headlight bucket and speedo/tacho buckets (got new cnc machined ones from Matt - they sealed at the bottom - very nice) and instrument panel. Still a few items to go here.
* Installed Mk3 upper head steady springs - now adjusted so the front iso stud can be pushed back & forth by hand when loosened.
* Fitted louder, dual horns above the z-plates - where you can get at them.
* Installed Kisan Signal Minder (self cancelling indicators that pause countdown while the brake in "on") and then Kisan Tailblazer (initially flashes the brake light slowing to solid "on")
* Installed 2oz (57g) of Counteract beads in each inner tube. No need for balance weight and the wheels are always in balance. Works really well.
* Had wet-dumping problems so installed timing cover and oil pump with AMR mods. Very good but then found the main culprit was pitting in the gasket face of the crankcase. All good now.
* Put 1.3kg of lead shot into the handlebars with silicone plugs to allow bar-end mirrors. Settled the, already mild, buzz even further.
* Installed the red tank & side covers I bought from @Dellis in the UK (thanks Dave) - perfect timing as the front bosses on the green tank started leaking. Still looking for someone to do the repair without destroying the great paint job.

I think that's about it - here's how it is now:
Cheers
View attachment 114480

Click to expand...

I only ‘nearly’ water pistoled my eye Rob !

I would advise experimenting with cold starts before disconnecting the pumper in Blighty, as its your only form of cold start assist…

Fast Eddie said:

I only ‘nearly’ water pistoled my eye Rob !

I would advise experimenting with cold starts before disconnecting the pumper in Blighty, as its your only form of cold start assist…

Click to expand...

Yes - but it is so easily reversed. I did not shorten the original rod, just made one from 2.5mm (I think) ss welding rod.

Thanks Rob for your all that detail and photos, you bike looks awesome in that colour; something about the large tank and Corbin seat make it quite Cafe Racer to me, more so than the Roadster tank.

Obviously initially I’ll be making no changes to mine, I’ll need to get to know it first especially considering the reversed controls and gear sequence.

I appreciate leaving the bike or just having people/friends near it could result in some unexpected throttle twiddling and the possible consequences but I seriously doubt I’ll be leaving it unattended just yet; no steering lock, no alarm and nowhere to store any type of lock or chain and I ain’t going to be fitting panniers or suchlike. I’ve been thinking of the possibility of fitting a tracker but there’s nowhere I can think of that would hide it successfully.

If you’ve ever ridden a stock Commando, how would you describe the cNw in comparison?

Edit: I see you have RoadRiders fitted which I have on my W800, so much better than the OEM Dunlops but how were the Battlax Matt fitted?
#101 has a brand new BT46 up front and a part worn BT45 rear so I’ll like to get some use out of those but at the two Norton events I attended last week, Sammy Millars Museum and Andover Norton every single bike was shod with RR including Allen Millyard’s Kawasaki Mach II 500 twin he made from a triple.

My ship has set sail, a day early! I bloody well hope my bike is on it

I can imagine it very easy to get carried away with the bling when spec-ing up a cNw from new, what with the front disc centres and Brembo callipers especially on a mk3 let alone the electric starter kit with a chromed motor; initially nice then after a while some buyer’s remorse.

Being a used example mine is as is. Initially I thought I’d have preferred a polished primary but actually the black as per an Atlas looks very classy and the crackle black for the starter helps to take attention away from its bulk. Bill originally had black mirrors which I favour too and mine now has black anodised disc centre as the chrome had badly pitted and can’t be re-chromed because Matt says it’s impossible to guarantee dimensional accuracy. Personally I’m not a fan of the while clocks Matt offers and indeed would have specified the Smiths option myself for that more authentic less custom look. I may at some point consider stainless mudguards from Andover Norton to give the bike an alternative look and some better protection; I’ll need one on Matt’s special stays too.