Clutch Basket Modification to Rivet Backing Plate.

Could anyone supply me the position and details of the 3 holes required to Rivet the backing plate to the clutch basket i.e. pitch circle diameter of the holes or center distance from outer diameter of backing plate. Cheers

I could measure one with the DRO but the positions probably matter little and have to wonder why you want to add rivets.

If it is an early basket with the lower steel plate/disc held by roll pins they can be refurbished by replacing the 1/8" roll pins with metric ones (3.5mm)



3.5 mm roll pins.

Riveted version.

Be advised that the plate and basket are extremely hard and will be difficult to drill with just a standard drill press and cobalt bits.

Crockett23 said:

center distance from outer diameter of backing plate.

Click to expand...

A little difficult to measure precisely due to the location but I make that 1/4".

NOC notes

The innermost friction surface on early clutches was a separate steel plate located by two tiny little roll-pins in blind holes in the back of the drum. Once the clutch was together this was O.K, but if the pins came loose (as they did) it was almost impossible to put the thing together and locate the backplate properly. It was also impossible because of the hardness to drill through the roll-pin holes so that proper rivets could be fitted-unless you had access to fancy equipment for spark erosion, but it is possible to tack-weld the back plate in position if you grind a couple of notches in the edge of the plate so you can get in with arc-welding equipment without spoiling the splines. Later the drums avoid the problem by having the back plate held in with three rivets to start with. John Hudson has advised that there is no need to re-rivet or weld this plate in, just remove the remains of the pins and let the plate do its own thing, quite safe.