Carb spacers useful or bling?

Or both?

My T120R preunit motor was fitted with a pair of 389 monoblocs along with a pair of carb spacers. They are the correct size for both the carbs and the head intakes.

Are they simply period bling, like the extended rocker covers, or are they useful additions?

Without them the intake length may be too short praps ?

Nevertheless, you’d be much better off replacing ‘em with a rubber mounting kit.

Dresda do them. You should contact Dresda anyway if building a Triton, they’ve got decades of experience resulting in some nice stuff.

"Useful" is a relative term.

In this case, there are four possible uses for them:

1. Intermediate fixings to the cylinder head (as are ALL intakes)
2. Provide additional cooling
3. Extending the intake length for tuning purposes
4. Bling

#1 is necessary
#2 is "nice to have", but may cause tuning issues, and/or fitment spacing issues
#3 is "nice to have" if building a higher-than-stock tuned engine for increased performance
#4 is personal preference

I would not say bling. prefer cool (pun intended). Possibly the usual phenolic spacers are better minimizing heat transfer. Though you can use shorter velocity stacks (bellmouths).

If you dont forget the heat insulater washers , twixt carbs & they , theyed shield & disapate horsepower robbing heat , from the carbs. perhaps . Were 1/8 od asbestos carb flange gaskets , once .
that tear & delaminate , if you put the gasket sealant on THEM . So you put gaskets on the asbestos gaskets on the finned intake , with CO2 injection on THEM . For Top Speed Runs .

Youve Doneit NOW , what Carb SIZE , Intake bore . Head port bore . Valve Size . is the injun aroud 11000 serial , later or earlier . ( And its a ' R ' . ( export ) . ? ) .
Puta 67 crank init , if ya wanna take home the bacon . Theyre the Thruxton crank . And crankyier .Could pull a 25 tooth sprocket ,
if ya dunnit right .
Tho they waffle along nicely , stock . But always want to accelerate . So 11 / 32 advance is likely more civilised than 3 / 8 . By the book. too .
You want to be rather particular the spark is dead on the same , both sides . And standing on all the bolts , is about tight enough , on the cradle .

Jo Mo / - FACTORY advice is NO PAINT in any of the joints . Including the Foot Rests . with decent tyres its very driveable , on the throttle .
Also 110 springs , solo . & Dual damped rear shocks . or youll want a kidney belt . Not applicable ifitsnotina Stock Chassis . some of it .

The light Triumph one-piece crank is of no value if you want performance. Inlet length does not have much effect, however exhaust system configuration has a big effect. Once you have built the bike and established the inlet port size, compression ratio and ignition advance, you need to jet the carburetors and adjust the gearing to suit the way you intend to ride the bike.

Like the heat riser on older car engines that use exhaust heat to WARM the intake manifold which aids fuel atomization by heating the air/fuel mixture which is quite cold from the vacuum, these finned manifolds will take the abundance of very warm air flowing from the back of the cylinder head and by virtue of their large (finned) surface area WARM the intake charge, improving atomization of the fuel mixture.

Good point, that one.
Also, almost all Brit twins suffer from short and bent intakes because of packaging limits - overhead gas tank, frame, seat, and oil tank.

" The light Triumph one-piece crank is of no value if you want performance. Inlet length does not have much effect "

Bols .

Typically they toon the Weber with intake trumpet length . So the differance between smooth running & stuttering & hesitateing is of no effect ?

The 67 Crank with the square flywheel , dosnt slow down the pickup . Like the heavier hexagonal one .
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One could of course fit intakes to the fairing sides , on a Triton . To direct Cold Air across the fancy finned intakes . The big hairy Ex. Clamps were for heat dissapation , Also .
Theres some nice fragile looking ally quater circle enlarged Dia. ones. And big chopper dress up cromed steel ones . A trick was binding the pipes with copper wire ( about 16 G/ 12 G. )
alledgedly to stop blueing . For the first foot or two . Of course the latest craze ten years ago , was asbestos tape bound , to keep the heat in .
1 3/4 Pipes cut to Boyer Length can get a free 1.000 r.p.m. if the engines nailed together right . The Heavier flywheel would be disadvatageous at 8.000 + .

as are heavier pistons & rods . And TO HIGH a C. R. . 100 Octane even on 7.5 : 1 has advantages . The eyetalian cars go better on Shell .