Carb removal

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marshg246 said:
Rather than take them apart, simply swap sides. I don't want to start the big discussion for the umpteenth time, but to me the turn signal on the right is weird. With it on the left, it works exactly like every car I've ever driven.
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Tks
 
Tornado said:
I think I tried just swapping the cases left/right, but they don't quite work right that way....it was something with the way the grey covered cable has to pass into the casing that didn't sit right if flipped. Also by changing the switches within each case, I could make the toggles work the way I wanted (up for right turn, down for left), the horn button also on the left side, lower position, kill switch left/upper position.
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They are swapped on all my Triumphs and Nortons and Norton originally had the turn signal on the left but changed it per Service Release N3/3 by simply swapping sides. One has 5 wires (the one with the dip switch), one has 6 (the one with the turn signal). If you just change the lever, you are certainly using the wrong colors for the turn signals and you must have added a wire to make it work. With the turn signal on the left, up is right turn, down is left - just like a car (at least in the US).
 
marshg246 said:
Rather than take them apart, simply swap sides. I don't want to start the big discussion for the umpteenth time, but to me the turn signal on the right is weird. With it on the left, it works exactly like every car I've ever driven.
Click to expand...

Maybe they were placed on the right due to most cars (manufactured in R/H drive countries) having the indicator lever on the right of the steering column.
 
marshg246 said:
They are swapped on all my Triumphs and Nortons and Norton originally had the turn signal on the left but changed it per Service Release N3/3 by simply swapping sides. One has 5 wires (the one with the dip switch), one has 6 (the one with the turn signal). If you just change the lever, you are certainly using the wrong colors for the turn signals and you must have added a wire to make it work. With the turn signal on the left, up is right turn, down is left - just like a car (at least in the US).
Click to expand...
Been a while since I did it. But I think we're on the same concept. I did reposition some buttons to new locations and even made the "unused" button to be the new horn button on lower left side. I didn't like the kill to be lower left side as I might have hit it when going for horn....as horn is on lower left of my other modern bike.
 
marshg246 said:
I have two sawed off Allen wrenches with the flats at different angles, a stubby ball-end Allen, and a long Allen with a ball-end. With those four, it becomes relatively easy. The first three get things started and the last I put through the wiring hole to unscrew the Allen once loose if the air cleaner is not installed. If the air cleaner is installed, I leave it in place and use the first three only - I find it easier to remove/replace the carbs than to remove/install the air cleaner.
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What the ball end used for, sorry just had to ask
 
Littlefeat69 said:
What the ball end used for, sorry just had to ask
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Presumably to give a bit more wiggle room/angle when trying to the key into the socket head bolts. The two inside ones have very little clearance sitting between the two intake manifolds. This is why I use the micro ratchet with a hex bit....barely fits but allows a little ratchet action to loosen bolts. Note you cannot fully unthread them with te ratchet in place b/c as they back out, all the free space is taken up. Have to do the last half of unthreading by fingers only.
 
Ball-end keys are often too long.

I ground a ball-end on a shorter key.
Carb removal


Note that the original 5/16" Allen/cap head socket/key size was 7/32".
Replacement screws are normally UNC (regardless of what is ordered) which are 1/4" socket/key size.
Carb removal

Carb removal
 
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Littlefeat69 said:
What the ball end used for, sorry just had to ask
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The 5/16 head steady allen screws , which are BSF and unfortunately too often mixed up with the manifold screws...what a cross threaded mess!
L.A.B. said:
Note that the original 5/16" Allen/cap head socket/key size was 7/32".
Replacement screws are normally UNC (regardless of what is ordered) which are 1/4" socket/key size.
Click to expand...
should be: 7/32 drive are 5/16 BSW allen screws, 1/4 drive is SAE, and the sign of a hack (IMO) and a supplier that should be avoided.
I make a point to advise the vendor I only want the correct 7/32drive/ 5/16 BSW screws, that seems to work :)
 
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dynodave said:
5/16 drive are BSW allen screws,
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If by "drive" you mean the socket/key size then it is 7/32". The screw size is 5/32" 5/16" x 18 BSW.

dynodave said:
1/4 drive is SAE
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If 1/4" drive (key size) then they are 5/16" x 18 UNC.

United States Standard thread - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org
"The USS standard is no longer supported. It, together with the SAE fastener standard, was incorporated into the Unified Thread Standard. However, the term, USS, continues to be used occasionally today to describe inch based threaded fasteners with a coarse thread pitch and inch based washers that are a little bit larger than the corresponding SAE washer. The Unified Thread Standard uses the term UNC (Unified Coarse) to describe a fastener that previously would have been designated USS and the Unified Thread Standard uses the term UNF (Unified Fine) to describe a fastener that would have previously been designated SAE."
 
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L.A.B. said:
Note that the original 5/16" Allen/cap head socket/key size was 7/32".
Replacement screws are normally UNC (regardless of what is ordered) which are 1/4" socket/key size.
Carb removal
Carb removal
Click to expand...

They're also 7/8" long, which is an odd length. I bought some stainless ones (just because) from the local hardware store and was dismayed to find the 1/4" hex drive. I have a collection of Allen wrenches in my tool box just for this application.
 
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L.A.B. said:
If by "drive" you mean the socket/key size then it is 7/32". The screw size is 5/32" 5/16" x 18 BSW.
Click to expand...
Sorry, not enough coffee yet? me too! ;)
7/32 drive/5/16 -BSW for the manifold allens...yes?
7/32 drive/5/16-BSF for the head steady
 
Also, the exploded parts diagrams clearly show some sort of locking washer on the manifold bolts, yet only flat washers are offered. Was there any time in Commando manufacture when locks were used?
 
maylar said:
yet only flat washers are offered. Was there any time in Commando manufacture when locks were used
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A bit strange here. I always use the thin profile carb split washers on the manifold and thin plain washers on the carbs. The thin split lock washers allow much quicker removal than a full size/thickness one.
I also immediately at the begining of the job, pull off the intake rocker cover to ease the short allen wrench swing arc.
 
Going to fit these in my winter riding break ,with my K&N filter fitted should make fitting and removal a lot quicker and easier
 

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