Can't get the new tranny mainshaft bearing mounted (2010)

Do you do ATF for a break in period and then gear oil? If so, how long is the break in period?

No, I'm going to go with ATF as the gear box lube. This is based on some recommendations in another thread and I posted in that thread that if the gearbox blows up I'll be sending a couple of nasty notes! One of the recommenders has 80k miles on his ATF-lubed commando gearbox.

It's in this thread, scroll to the top to start reading it.

post83108.html?hilit=atf#p83108

Mike, I'll surely read it but seems to me that ATF is thinner than motor oil and gear oil is thicker than motor oil so they appear to be opposites. I know slipperly lubes like Redline make the tranny work better and maybe the ATF acts like this but does it give the protection to the gears?

ATF is long proven to work a treat in our AMC boxes and I've tested the snot out of it and prefer it. End of discussion expect listing its advantages and no downside but easier to leak out and see it ain't engine oil. Same ATF is great in 750 triplex primary too. Less drag and better heat carried out of the tights. Its a very good idea to flush out oil or ATF after some initial break in. Might be surprised by the color that flushes out.

Here is another choice. For all the effort you put in, it is worth checking all options.

Severe Gear 75W-140 synthetic, Excellent cold-flow properties. None better.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/svo.aspx

pvisseriii said:

Severe Gear 75W-140 synthetic, Excellent cold-flow properties. None better.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/svo.aspx

Click to expand...

'Ceptin Redline Shockproof Heavy of course.... :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

MexicoMike said:

Reassembled the tranny with all new bushings. All the bushings fit just fine with no reaming necessary, The only bushing I had a real problem removing was the kickstart shaft/layshaft bushing. There was no way to access the bushing so I cut two slots in it with a hacksaw - one slot all the way through the bushing to the shaft metal so it could compress and then I was able to pull it out by just "turning" it out with a flat piece of metal, like a big screw driver.


Cutting the slots in the kickstart shaft bushing

Click to expand...

Cheers MM...this may be what I will have to resort to. My bushing is stubborn...tried using a heavy duty expension lag bolt (Home Depot) to grab it...seemed to get a reasonable hold as it took many heavy hammer hits before the bolt started to slide out leaving the bush where it lay. Mick Hemmings DVD shows using a tap to cut into the bush, then striking the shaft flange with tap end held in vice draws the bush out...looked too easy. I think mine might be locktite in....

Be sure to check the radius on the inner race is sufficient.
https://www.accessnorton.com/Norton...ton-transmission-parts-quality-escapes.19278/

OK, some success! The KS bushing finally came out with one hell of a struggle. Picked up a 3/4"-10 TPI tap and a 3"x3/4" full thread bolt with nut at local supply store. Tapped into bushing...went quite nicely in just about full length of bushing. Bashing shaft with tap held in vice was futile...30 mins and no discernible progress. Next I threaded in the big bolt with the nut already threaded right to bolt head....with this all threaded fully down the KS surface (bushing is recessed for 1/4"?)....turning the nut toward the shaft (held in vice) finally started some small movement towards the open end. Got it flush after applying huge torque using 18" breaker bar!! Didn't have anything suitable to act as a spacer to continue drawing bush out....so started smashing against KS flange with bolt held in vice....again much effort to get the lip of the bushing outside the shaft flange. Now I could grab it with slip jaw pipe wrench and actually got it to turn in the bore....under heavy torque...but again no way to progress it further. So, went back to my expanding lag bolt and re-tried that since there was now more space far end of bush for it to grab into....more big sledge whacks and more progress...slowly, steadily it came all the way out. Most of this work was done with propane heating the KS flange...didn't seem to make much difference though. Could not see any indication of Locktite...but could have been that low viscosity type. Gave the bore and the new bush a little 1500 grit wet/dry polishing, heated the shaft and used socket to drift the new bush home...again taking quite a lot of pounding to get in all the way down.