Broken center stand spring

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Has anyone thought to rig a failsafe to the stand? I'm thinking a strong magnet to hold it up. Would stop any flopping while riding, less wear/tear on pivot and spring holes, easily overcome when deploying stand. I had one on a custom stand I used for awhile on my modern bonne.
 
No matter what stainless you use it is less resilient, less duty cycles, then carbon steel It will stretch but never return exactly, until it breaks
 
I knew a guy who built a Triton and couldn't figure out a good way to setup the center stand. He mounted a big Neodymium magnet to the underside of the bike. It really seemed to hold up the center stand and as far as I know it never dropped expectantly.

Regarding the spring dropping and catching on a "road hazard" I wonder if a "long" safety cable could be threaded through the center of the center stand spring and be attached at both ends sort of like the safety cable on the transverse garage door springs (not the torsion type).
 
drp said:
I knew a guy who built a Triton and couldn't figure out a good way to setup the center stand. He mounted a big Neodymium magnet to the underside of the bike. It really seemed to hold up the center stand and as far as I know it never dropped expectantly.
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Did he find that solution attractive?
I'd be worried I might become too attached to it. ;)
 
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Tornado said:
Has anyone thought to rig a failsafe to the stand? I'm thinking a strong magnet to hold it up
Click to expand...

I don't trust either of the stand springs, If you look at how they are "anchored" it is just a matter of cycles before they wear through. I carry a small bore bungee cord in my pack and just hope that the side stand doesn't decide to go rogue leaning into a left hander, or the center stand deploying on a rail crossing.

I'm not (yet) paranoid enough to fit the bungee cord before riding off, but part of my pre-flight check is to look at these time bombs and make sure look at where they attach to the frame for the start of the "hack saw" cut...

PS: I am a verified Stainless Steel addict, but I won't use this material for any spring; plus the fit of the center stand stainless spring absolutely sucks.

Best.
 
I got the spring installed using the video from LAB with a puller I made.The hole in the stand looks to be elongated to look like a slot.Is this correct or is the result of age. I have owned the bike for 30 some years and this is the first time I have replaced the spring.
 
kommando said:
Age, when reconditioning a stand I first get it welded up, drill a new hole and then get a bent washer welded over the top.
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I think I understand what you did with the bent washer.Did you do anything with the holes that the bushings go into? I don’t like the slop but have no idea how to correct this?Your thoughts?
Thanks,
Mike
 
YING said:
Did you do anything with the holes that the bushings go into?
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No, they need to be loose as if too tight grit can get in and slow the action down. The bend in the washer matches the curve of the centre stand tube so it lies flat.
 
YING said:
I think I understand what you did with the bent washer.Did you do anything with the holes that the bushings go into? I don’t like the slop but have no idea how to correct this?Your thoughts?
Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...
INOA Tech Digest suggests replacing the bushings with sealed bearings, though obviously some machining is required....
 
I had a stainless side stand spring break at less than a year old
Never again!!
 
Washer repair, threaded on this one solely to keep the sand blasting material out.

Broken center stand spring
 
kommando said:
Washer repair, threaded on this one solely to keep the sand blasting material out.

Broken center stand spring
Click to expand...
Mine also needs de-slotting. Was thinking to drill out to round, then fit something like a Riv-nut/Nutsert, which are like pop-rivets that squeeze tight in the hole, but have a fully threaded hole through. Can be had in Alu or Stainless, maybe harder materials like Monel.
 
Tornado said:
Mine also needs de-slotting. Was thinking to drill out to round, then fit something like a Riv-nut/Nutsert, which are like pop-rivets that squeeze tight in the hole, but have a fully threaded hole through. Can be had in Alu or Stainless, maybe harder materials like Monel.
Click to expand...
You are looking to spread the spring tension over a larger area on both the hole and the spring without stopping the spring from getting into the hole. So do whatever achieves that, aluminium may be too soft.
 
An easier way to stretch a spring is to bend it and insert washers on one side, then do the other side until it is long enough to fit. Once fitted, a function test will drop out the washers. See alan millyard...
 
The coin method didn't work for me at all so I used a stout cord and a piece of wood as a lever. I had my original '72 stand welded twice then bought a new later stand and the stepped bushings with new hardware and a new spring. A huge improvement and no more centerstand bobbing up and down while riding.
 
kommando said:
Washer repair, threaded on this one solely to keep the sand blasting material out.

kommando said:
You are looking to spread the spring tension over a larger area on both the hole and the spring without stopping the spring from getting into the hole. So do whatever achieves that, aluminium may be too soft.
Click to expand...
Thanks,Mike
Click to expand...
 
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